Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Technical => Drivetrain Tech => Topic started by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 02:09:24 PM

Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 02:09:24 PM
So, I'm sorta in a bind. I was just laid off when my company went under. I am going to montana for work (9 hr drive) and need to provide my own vehicle to get there. I found a 3.8 t-5 for $150 locally. I think I found a way to make the 3.8 bellhousing work.

The 3.8 uses a 164 tooth flywheel with a 11" clutch.
5.0 uses a 10.5" 157 tooth.
The bellhousing puts the starter 1/4" or so away from the fly wheel.

After making some rough mesurments, here is the plan.

3.8 sn-95 t-5 and bellhousing
80's f-150 164 tooth fly wheel. 50oz imbalance same diameter and tooth count as the 3.8.
94-98 v-6 11" clutch kit.
Fox clutch cable.

Not sure if the stock 5.0 starter will work, or if I have to go to the mini starter style. Gonna mock it up on the engine on the stand, mesure the starter compared to the new bellhousing and old auto dustplate.

*edit* update.
Final parts list.
5.0 1987 f-150 flywheel.
5.0 1987 f-150 clutch kit.
92-96 f-150 5.0 manual transmission mini starter.
99 v-6 mustang trans.
1989 mustang gt pedals and clutch cable.

I re-used the stock driveshaft, crossmember, and trans mount from the aod. Reverse lights were spliced into the aod wiring. You will need a connector for the t-5 reverse lights. Try to use a 94-98 transmission. The 99+ had a few differences, although they are stronger. First, there is no where to put the nss wiring. I ended up just jumping mine so it will start with the key. Second, the sensor in the trans for speed won't work. The 94-98 trans should work fine, or one from a 94-95 gt, but the parts list will be diferent for the 94-95 gt.

The v-6 trans uses the larger flywheel and clutch, like the f-150. I am unsure if the v-6 uses the 3/8" or 3/4" offset starter. It would be easy to figure out. You could reballance a v-6 flywheel to 50oz and run it with a standard mustang 3.8 clutch from any parts store. The mustang uses meteic fasteners, the f-150 used standard, which was the reason ehind the f-150 clutch.

Clutch feel is light, everything fit like it was supposed to, and anything not mentioned here has been covered in a bunch of other t-5 swaps. Feel free to ask any questions.

*update*
I have replaced the offset sn-95 handle with a straighter one from a 1989 supercoupe. I will post pictures of the difference after. I also have been using the automatic console plate. haven't gotten around to throwing the upper boot on yet. all 87-04 lower rubber transmission tunnel rubber seal thingy seem to be ideticle. i happened upon a new one at the junk yard for $2. I never did seal the colum shifter hole. I plan to just get a rubber plug and stick it in there.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 07:16:55 PM
Well, some issues so far.

Mustang clutch kit is $164.99, which isn't the end of the world. Mockedup at the parts store and it all lines up. Problem is this, f-150 uses 3/8" thread, 94+ mustang uses 10mm. I'm trying to decide if I want a f-150 flywheel and use 3/8" bolts with the mustang clutch/pressure plate, or try to use one for a ford truck.

There are 3 different 11" clutches available that should match the f-150 flywheel. A stock 5.0 truck 11" clutch, the 5.8 under and over 8500gvwr ones. I don't necissarly want the heavier duty clutch for a f-150, mainly because I know its ment for a md02 trans. The input spline and length is the same between the two.

I'm tempted to see if I can get away with the mustang clutch/flywheel, but use a 3/8" bolt for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. The f-150 flywheel has no bolts or keepers attached. I'm sort of worries about the bit of play that would be different between the 10mm and 3/8" bolt.

Any opinions?
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 07:26:22 PM
According to google, 3/8" = 9.525mm. This is what I was afraid of. The clutch itself will be cenetered, but the pressure plate won't. Should I attempt to drill out and re-tap the bolts to 10mm? Is there a possibility of a 3/8" thread with a 10mm shoulder in grade 8 hardware?
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 07:27:50 PM
Right now I'm leaning twoards the f-150 11" clutch. This should center perfectly, just wondering if the throw out bearing is the same. Piolit bearing should be.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on February 26, 2013, 08:43:56 PM
Maybe you could find a decent 5.0 T-5 for the cost of all the effort and parts making the other one work. There has to be one near you somewhere.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: STANG8U on February 26, 2013, 08:46:01 PM
Sounds like a cluster shag lol
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 09:49:40 PM
Its what I do best ;).

The trans feels pretty tight and all gears engage properly. I am happy with it, at least till I get it in the car. I'm in it $150 for the trans, $120 for clutch/pressureplate ect and $55 for the flywheel. I'm waiting for someone to call me back off of classifieds with a stock cable.

I've figured out what I am going to do, and going to pick up parts right now.

99 sn-95 3.8 t-5 and bell.
164 tooth flywheel for a 87 f-150
87 f-150 11" clutch kit(should match the flywheel bell and trans)
Couple random bolts, cut a hole in the floor, and swap the pedals.
Fox clutch cable.

Once I have it all mocked up, I'll know if the starter will reach, but rough msurements of the flywheel match the 3.8. If it doesn't fit, I'll fix my station wagon instead and get the fox inputshaft and bellhousing and swap it over when I start getting money in montana, or have it built up for the bird.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 09:52:11 PM
I should mention, I am gonna be very careful with the boxes and receipts just incase ;)
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: STANG8U on February 26, 2013, 10:39:29 PM
Getr done and let us know how it gos lol
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 26, 2013, 10:44:16 PM
Should have a good solid update by noonish tomorrow. I'm going to add the clutch pedal first, maybe see if I can rig up the saftery switch to it, the. By afternoonis I'm gonna have a place cleared out in the garage for a bit of warmth and hit it hard by nightfall.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Clayton on February 27, 2013, 03:51:40 AM
Does it have a detachable bellhousing? If so I have a regular 5:0 bell in my garage
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on February 27, 2013, 06:47:39 AM
Does your pedal assembly have the stock quadrant (adjustable? If not, get an adjustable cable.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Thunder Chicken on February 27, 2013, 11:53:54 AM
IIRC the SN95 t-5 has a longer input shaft than the Fox one, so a 5.0 bell won't work
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 27, 2013, 03:13:48 PM
Pedal assembly has the quadrant. It seems to work, but if I have to I'll get an aluminium one. The stock 5.0 would work with a swapped input shaft. Hang on to it, and if I need it, I'll let you know.

Completely cleared out the garage (a major under taking) and going to get bolts for the pressure plate now.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: bigbada1 on February 27, 2013, 04:14:16 PM
I actually used the SN T5 in my car with the SN bell (you must use the SN throwout arm) the only draw back to this setup is trying to run long tube headers. It actually puts the shifter back about 1/2 further too.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: bigbada1 on February 27, 2013, 04:14:53 PM
Oh ya there is a difference in starters too.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: bigbada1 on February 27, 2013, 04:16:35 PM
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?30811-My-SN94-95-T5-adventure.&highlight=
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: bigbada1 on February 27, 2013, 04:20:46 PM
Change the speedo internal gear if you have to before you throw the trans in the car too
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 27, 2013, 05:02:49 PM
Thanks for the linkb I sorta remembered your thread after reading it. I am not sure what I will do with the starter yet, looks like my flywheel from the f-150 will sit about 1/4" back. From what I can tell, this is the differance between starters between auto and manual. Its a half off day at the junkyard, and I think I'm going to look at getting a manual f-150 starter. I may just get lucky and have it fit. I knew about grinding down the starter nose, again thanks!

Everything looks like it fits perfect, fox clut cable fits both trans and pedals, pleanty of bellhousing clearance. I am convinced everything will work except for MAYBE the f-150 throw out bearing and haven found out about the starter yet. I haven't pulled the clutch fork yet to find out.

(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-02-27144122.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-02-27144133.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-02-27144154.jpg)
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 27, 2013, 05:39:56 PM
I forgot flywheel bolts and threadlock, I am going to wait until tomorrow before I rip it apart. Might do the pedals or something, but I need to keep it driveable as long as possible.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 27, 2013, 06:27:15 PM
Oh, gonna try to find a dustplate too. Any idea's on what else I could use?
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 27, 2013, 08:34:53 PM
I'm gonna start ripping it all out here in a bit. I found some 7/16" grade 5 bolts. Not sure what it recommends, but I'll be waiting for them until tomorrow. We'll see what we find on the flywheel. I would prefer a grade 8 bolt, just to be safe.

Picked up 3 quarts of atf, possible flywheel bolts, and I think I can get away with using the auto dust sheild. If I have to cut some out of it, then no big deal. The stock auto uses a 164 tooth flywheel, so I should get away with it fine. I found a guy that has used a 3.8 bell housing behind a 5.0. He used a 3.8 flywheel reballanced to 50oz and ran the 3.8 mustang 11" clutch. Everything bolted together fine, but he had to use a "shiznit load" of shims for the starter to get it to disenguage after cranking. I think I kight get lucky because the f-150 flywheel seems to be about 1/4 lower(closer to the block) on the ring gear.

Going to do some research later tonight to figure out if I can use the 99+ electric pick up in the tranny. The 3.8 stangs should have had 2.73 or 3.08 gears, which should work fine. The saftery switch on the pedal was cut, so I am going to see if I can wire it up using the existing aod wires. If I can't, then I'll add a hidden solinoid starter switch.

Should know by about midnight if its all gonna work, depending on how fast/slow I work. I got some time and a nice warm place to work with the 50.000btu torpedo heater, but its un insilated. Should have 5-6 hours of propane, and I'll lay a tarp along the oposide side of the care I'm working on to trap some heat.

Should have some exciting updates by tomorrow.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 27, 2013, 11:37:51 PM
Well, I screwed up it looks like. I pulled a bolt out of the flywheel of my other motor. Its a 7/16-20X1" bolt. Its also a grade 8, or at least has 6 hash marks on it.

I think I am going to mock it up with the 3/4" length, but it kinda killed my modivation for the night, knowing I won't be able to have it done tonight.

Think I'll just drain all the atf, remove the driveshaft, fix my power steering leak, and call it a night. Maybe unbolt the transmission if I get back into a working on the car mood.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 01, 2013, 01:29:06 PM
Work has been super slow...

Have the car ripped apart, trans is out.

The torque converter is still boolted, I'm going to pull the colum and swap pedals, maybe cut the hole for the shifter while I'm in there.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 01, 2013, 05:14:24 PM
Missing the flywheel bolts. My dad was out ad about so I sent him to pick them up. His ex-wife was in a car accident down the street from where he was and he was listed s her emergency contact still. She looks like she'll be okay, but the car is totaled.

Anyone know the size of the drain plug in the t-5? Looks like the guy I bought it off of forgot to put it back in.

The 11" clutch kit, throw out bearing and piolt bearing are all the same as what I took off. Not crazy about the f-150 clutch, but I think pedal feel will be fine. Swapped the throwout bearing, wanna make sure I have the drain plug before installing tranny.

Might start on the pedal and taking out the colum shift while I wait. My front u-joint was about ready to let go. It has nearly an inch of play, and doesn't look like its had bearings in it for a while. The car always had a clunk when letting off of the gas, and I expected this.

Verified that this is a 99+ transmission. The serial number doesn't pull anything up, but it has a speedo gearless speed sensor. Tried to swap them from the auto, but definately not going to work. The plug looks the same, but research shows that the vss and oss were combined on 99+ mustangs, and in a 94-95 gt (which uses the same style pickup and sensor our cars do with a gear) read 4 times actual speed. Might be running my gps as a speedo for a bit, especially where the car has no tach.

Might do the 199 digi dash mod if it does read 4 times over. 20mph would be 80mph by the speedo, so I would all but be at the 85mph digital dash limit. Might be fun to make a youtube or two of that just to screw with people.

The 99+ mustangs also have no neutrual saftey switch, its built into the ignition. I might try to wire the aod one into the pedal that had the conector cut off.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 01, 2013, 11:32:49 PM
Well, clutch/flywheel/pressureplat and piolt bearing is in.

New trans I swapped to the aod crossmember and mount, just hoping to get luck and have it line up. If it doesn't line up, I'm sure I can make it work. Looks like the bellhousing uses all the same sized bolts as the aod, and the speed ensor plugged right in. I talked to my dad about it, he says he can easily get around the speedo being off, but not sure if he can get it exact. He's one of those electronics guru's.

I feel stupid, I didn't get the drain plug cause I was unyre of the size. I pulled the pther one out, and its the same size. After some rough mesurements, I think I am still going to need about 1/4" worth of shims for the starter. Could have probablt gotten away from this by using a aftermarket flywheel/clutch sized for a 3.8 mustang. You can get them for 0oz, and they come with 28 and 50oz weights. This would have been the easy way, but a bit more expensive.

Aod dustplate is in right now, I don'kt see why it won't work, all of the holes line up. I wonder how the 28lb fly wheel will effect performance compared to the stock 21lb? Other then shims for the starter, it looks like it might be plug and play.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 01, 2013, 11:39:28 PM
GOOD LUCK !!! I sure hope this works out for you, and I'm watching to see how it turns out. Keep up the good work.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 02, 2013, 03:46:28 AM
This link explains some starter differances.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/491474-new-lesson-i-learned-measure-starter-offset-check-binding-starter.html

My research has shown that most 157 tooth manual and 164 tooth auto flywheels have the 3/8" offset, and both the sn-95 mustang with the 3.8 and the truck 302/351 with the larger flywheel may be the 3/4" offset. This lines up with how I figured I needed about a 1/4 spacer for the starter.


Right now, I'm thinking my best bet for the starter would be to hit some ford trucks at the junk yard, just to see whatthe offset is on them.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 02, 2013, 04:57:41 PM
Found a plut that seems to work. It was a 1/2 npt plug. It has a big square on it instead of the recess for a 3/8" square drive. Gonna put it on top after I fill it with fluid.

Might end up with a mini starter for a 94+ 3.8 v-v mustang. Not sure on this yet.

Bought a new u-joint, broke my good c-clamp, so just got back from renting the press. The drivesaft dampener was coming off and kinda wobbly. I hammered it flush, not sure how well its gonna work. If I have any vibrations, I'll just hammer it off.

Old u-joint had almost 1" of play on the yoke side. This should really make the car feel more solid if everything works out.

Pulled the shifter off of the t-5, duct taped a peice of cardboard over the hole. Gonna try mounting the trans to see if it all lines up with the stock aod mount and crossmember. I it doesn't, I'll probably just make an adaptar/spacer for it, can't be that hard to make work.

Plan for today/night, stab the trans, cut hole in floor, see if driveshaft and starter will work, then move to the inside for pedals. Gonna do absolute minimum until I know I can get it all to work.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 02, 2013, 09:45:33 PM
Trans is in, all but one bellhousing bolt in(left it on the bench), hole is cut, and shift is mounted temporarly. Looks like everything is gonna line up perfect. I cut the hole a bit big, I have no shifter boot, or anyway to close offthe bottom of the car.

I am actually feeling really good, and I'm pretty excited. Gonna go in and eat dinner, then maybe focus back on the u-joins.

Still have u-joints/driveshaft, one bellhousing bolt at the bottom, figure out the starter, fill with fluid, clutch pedal and exhaust. and I'm sure more I forgot. But the big peices are all in. The stock aod crossmember and transmount linedup perfect.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 03, 2013, 12:12:46 AM
So far so good. Glad to hear that it's working out so far. keep us posted.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 03, 2013, 03:39:15 AM
Thanks vinnie.

U-joint was the wrong size. Really killed my modivation. Without the driveline, don't wanna fill it with fluid. I've decided to find a newer starter instead. Looks like the f-150's with a 302 or 5.8 should have the right starter. Gonna look around for a floor shifter boot or some type of seal to close the new hole in the floor.maybe get the pipe that I found all rusted out for the air injection pump. Also need a shifter  still.

Light at the end of the tunnel.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 03, 2013, 07:48:25 AM
You probably need to take a break anyway and give the family some time. Don't forget them. Today is now another day. U-joint, fluids , starter, cross the fingers.......
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 03, 2013, 08:27:20 AM
If the hole in the floor is too big, cut a new piece of steel to cover it with a smaller hole cut into it. Then put a boot on it. It would be easy to put a nice bead of silicone between the new steel and the floor, and then a few short sheet metal screws to hold it in place. It's good to keep the floor sealed up.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 03, 2013, 05:09:31 PM
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03145922.jpg)Good idea vinnie. I have an extra trunk lid I was thinking about flipping over and turning into a nascar style spoiler. I could cut some metal out of that and use your sheet metal screw idea.

5t.0 fox starter vs 92 f-150 5.0 starter
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03143112.jpg)

New u-joint.  Having the right part helps.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03145922.jpg)

My dad keeps insisting all 4 caps needed needle bearinngs. I don't get why?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03145849.jpg)

Onto starter, wiring for starter, driveshaft, fill tranny with fluids, and I guess the stupid pedals. Any tips on getting those off? I have the four booster bolts out, have worked on it too much past that.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 03, 2013, 05:42:51 PM
Driveshaft in. With the suspension loaded I have about 3/4" clearance still on the yoke. Frome what I've read, this should be okay.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03153329.jpg)

The t-5 is really in there. Funny how much more room there is without the shifter and exhaust in the way. Stock aod transmemeber was swapped over and lined up fine, as well as the aod trans mount.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03153351.jpg)

So weird seeing a shifter poking through.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-03153520.jpg)

Onto starter/starter wiring. Haven't decided on the neutral saftey switch yet.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 03, 2013, 07:04:30 PM
Awesome work my friend. I don't have the safety switch in mine. No worries. I know to start in neutral or push the clutch in. How much bigger is the hole than what I see in the pic? If that's as big as it is, you can probably get a factory lower dust boot and screw it to the floor. If it's bigger, my old idea stands. So close to the finished product now.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 03, 2013, 10:18:10 PM
Car starts and runs. Just stuck a screw driver to the solinoid. Wired up the speedo and new mini starter. Car reads 85mph in 5th gear at idle. Pretty sure the mustang pickup is different.

No clutch hooked up yet, found my foxbody mustang harness which has the right hookups for the nutrual saftey switch and reverse lights. I'll propbably just use the reverse lights and wire the aod nss to the clutch pedal instead of using a jumper.

Now to focus on the steering colum/pedal cluster. Don't think I can put it off any longer.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 03, 2013, 10:27:38 PM
I'm waiting to hear the results. Turn on the lights, heat up the garage, and stay up all night.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: STANG8U on March 03, 2013, 10:42:04 PM
Very nice dude

Glad you pieced it all together
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 04, 2013, 12:34:54 PM
So... after 3 hours straight, I have removed the steering colum and two more bolts on the pedal cluster.

The pedals still feel as tight as when I started. Wtf am I missing here? I walked away from it about midnight last night. Gonna run a couple of quick errands, then have my dad look at it, see if he can figure it out.

I even tried to add the clutch to the aod pedals. It looks possible, but its hard to line everything up and put the quadrant ect on under the dash in peices like that.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 04, 2013, 02:15:47 PM
Pedals out :). Couldn't be happier.

Need to do a junkyard run, broke the connector to the brake pedal switch. Getting a new plastic bushing right now for the clutch pedal stuff.

Hooking up the clutch/pedals is withing sight now. Just need the bushing. I can do the brake switch connector after.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 04, 2013, 02:33:06 PM
Pedal cluster is not identicle, but is fairly close. It looks like you could easily use the automatic cluster and just swap in a clutch pedal. I see two problems with this though. You would need to find a good sized metal tube to insert, cut it to eact length, and maybe weld it in place so it wouldn't move. There are also several brackets that are welded in place forthe clutch saftey switch (I'm assuming... I didn't pull these pedals).

I hope I still have enough room between pedals to drive with my size 15w steel toed boots...

(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-04122518.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-04122538.jpg)
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 04, 2013, 03:46:17 PM
It's about time. I've been working on the Sport all day swapping upper intakes and the throttle body. Checking in here to see if there's progress. Don't leave me hanging like that. LOL. You're in the home stretch. Just a little bit more, and you'll be there.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: STANG8U on March 04, 2013, 04:16:28 PM
I like your choice of tools lmfao ..... Got to have a bfh when working on a car lol
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 04, 2013, 05:06:19 PM
Clutch pedal is a press fit. Needed the hammer to knock it on and off.

Clutch pedal is "rebuilt". No longer has any play side to side. I used the black bushings. The grey ones looked more correct, but seemed to bind too much. Part # 74016. Was in the "Help!" Section. "Clutch and brake bushings"

I personally probably would have skipped this step, but my dad had an old van with a clutch, and he ended up tearing through the pedal assembly after the bushings went out. He insisted we needed these, and I was out of propane, so I figured why not, couldn't hurt.

(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-04145802.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-04145802.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-03-04145749.jpg)

And vinne, your the last person I want to disapoint ;).
I figure I should have the everything bolted down, and ready to drive by dark. Might need to get some more bolts for the exhaust. I broke or stripped every bolt on the y-pipe. Don't think its ever been off before.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 04, 2013, 07:00:07 PM
Clutch pedal and clutch cable are in. I routed the cable under the motor mount. This is the only way I could see no having it sit against the exhaust and still pull straight to the pedal and into the trans properly. Clutch feels reletively light. Gonna work on getting the steering colum back in so I can try to start it and see what happends. If all goes well, I'll be starting exhaust by dinner, and able to set it on the ground tonight.

The air injection pump tube was badly rotted. I was able to get the pipe off cleanly of the exhaust. It just had a single clamp on the bottom, then goes up to a rubber hose on the passenger side. I'm going to try to get the exhaust hung, but I really think I might have to wait until tomorrow for the bolts and small pipe for the injection pump.

I did cut one exhaust hanger off of the cat. Whoever put it in, they did it so it hung off of the transmount so you couldn't remove it. I might just get a cheapie hangar and clamp instead of getting it welded.

I like having one cable instead of the 50 brackets and linkages for the colum shifter.

So basically, I need some new exhaust bolts,a lil peice of pipe for the injection pump, and a shifterboot or gasket of some type. I have some rubber plugs, gonna see if I can just stick one in the colum shifter hole.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 04, 2013, 08:41:14 PM
Come on,come on, come on !!!!!!!!!
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 04, 2013, 08:46:01 PM
Easy no vinnie. I'm sure I want this more then you want to see it ;). Quick dinner break and then gonna get the colum and dash all together and wire the nss to the pedal and reverse lights. Gonna see if it will crank with the key. If it does, then I'll pull the coil wire and make sure it doesn't hang up on the starter during crank.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 04, 2013, 09:08:27 PM
So, if this works, are you going to start getting the car some performance mods, and all prettied up?
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 01:55:01 AM
That all depends.

I go to montana on the 11th, and I'll be starting a job making over twice what I was when I was laid off. Now for the cruddy bit...

Its gonna be 15 days on and 6 days off. Company pays for hotel, but I gotta get out there. Depending on how the work goes, I could be up there until june or longer, and there already lining up work in washington state. I always swore i'd never be one of those lineman that hops from place to place, but the lack of work here and good pay give me almost no other option.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna end up with lots of money, but time is going to be an issue when I'm home. There will be quite a few things that I'll need to do when I'm home. I'd like to finally use all my h.o. parts, do some exhaust and maybe get mu other motor ready. I'd also like to do some minor brake upgrades. But I am a stong beleiver in function over form, and I like my cheap cars. Using this car for work might also change how much I can fix it up.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 02:03:52 AM
Oh, and a quick update...

I hooked the nss to the pedal, but it was a waste of time. The car will start with the pedal up, but not depressed. Oposite of what I wanted. So I just jumpered I next to the tranny plug. I did hook up the reverse lights as well.

I got the car running, tested the clutch, and all looks good. With the clutch in the tire barely moves, and if I hit the brake it stops without lugging the engine at all. I can shift between gears with the engine running and the car up onn the jack stands. I heard a bit of grinding after the idle dropped, so I shut the car off. the dust plate from the aod had a bubble in it next to the starter that was grinding the engine side of the flywheel.

I noticed the starter was a bit crooked, and figured I didn't line it up right, pulled it out and re-seated it. Still grinding. So I shimmed the dustplate, still grinding. I eventally figured out that the starter was just barely too big for the hole in the dust plate, so I trimmed the edge it washiznitting best I could with some tin snips. Hooked the starter back up without shims and nothing. Just getting solinoid clicks. Battery is good and has been on 2 amp charge all day.

Right now I'm hoping the starter is bad. The teeth seemed to enguage and dis-enguage properly. I'd rather I found the junkyard starter as bad before the trip anyways. Guess I'm done for the night, gonna test the starter and see what happends.

I was able to get it to crank the starter over fine with it outside of the bellhousing. Really not sure what else it could be.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Beau on March 05, 2013, 02:52:30 AM
Get a mini starter...
Change one of the cables on the solenoid, and run a small wire from the solenoid to the starter itself.

The smaller starter weighs less, takes less room, and starts the engine easier too.
Get one from a '93 up 5.0 truck, 92-95 5.0 stang, '94+ 3.8 Tbird/Cougar..and a few others.

I've got one on my Sport, for sure a must have.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 09:40:50 AM
It was a mini starter ;).

Older starter doesn't really fit well in the housing.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 11:22:48 AM
Ok, starter back in. I decided to fix the dustplate rubbing by a hot rodder old time seceret. Rev honing.

Going to the junkyard to look for some exhaust bits and a shifter boot. I have the aod shift bezel if I end up with something other the tbird/cougar peice.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 05, 2013, 11:40:58 AM
You can make a lower shift boot from a stang as well.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 12:26:27 PM
Yup, if I couldn't find one.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 05, 2013, 12:29:06 PM
eBay,maybe a ford truck or somebody parting out a turbo coupe here on the forum.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 06:47:06 PM
Through a shift boot off a ford ranger in. It should work. Can't find my floor shift shroud though?

Car is on the ground, gonna go for a test drive after I clean up a bit and put the drivers seat in. Wish me luck.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 05, 2013, 06:50:45 PM
Good luck!!!
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 05, 2013, 07:23:26 PM
Car seems to drive fine, the clutch seems to be adjusted fine, but engauges right off of the floor. 1-3 worked flawlessly, need to fix my brake lights. I must have pulled a wire or forgotten to hook them up when I did the pdeals.

When I get the brakelights fixed, going to autozone for a shift nob and drive around town a bit.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 05, 2013, 08:29:08 PM
Awesome. Glad it's actually doing what it's supposed to do. I'd give you a pat on the back if I could reach you.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 06, 2013, 02:02:32 AM
Just did a run from my house to wendover nevada(border or nevada), 222 miles by google maps total. I have a bit over 250 miles I think, used about 1/2 tank. I'm guesimating 28mpg, which is a very rough guess. I did a couple of wot runs on i-80 by the salt flats. I get a bit of vibration about 95mph, didn't take it too far past that, maybe 105mph or so. Mixed speeds between 65-80mph. Could definately get more out of it if I didn't downshift everytime I got the chance. I stopped at two rest stops just so I could bang some gears on the on-ramp.

The car feels so natrual as a stick and drives completely different. I'm loving it so far. Power steering fluid is leaking badly. Used up half a quart in 3 1/2 to 4 hours of driving. Tomorrow I'm going to finish up the little bits I have left, put the interior back together and look into the power steering. Hoping its just a line, which really wouldn't be too bad to fix. Temps stayed near the "R" in norm. I think I'm going to swap the thermostat just incase.

Haven't really tried power shifting it, but you can spin completely through 1st and chirp 2nd pretty good. Freeway passing and acceleration is good in 4th. 5th does okay as long as there aren't any big hills. I expected more torque out of the engine. Its easy to kill it. I think I might try bumping the idle up a bit. Sucks not having a speedo or tach.

Car reads over 85mph by about 25mph. Switching to kilometers, it will read 185kph by 35 or so. Freeway speeds it starts over at about 50-55mph. 40kph is 50mph and 65mph is 60. 75mph reads 140kph or so. If your not confused by this, you must understand it better then me ;).

I have confidence its gonna make it to montana fine, even with the 190k body.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on March 06, 2013, 06:49:58 AM
That's a good ending to a good story.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: 83TB on March 09, 2013, 08:39:00 AM
Great work!!  How about a quick parts list, on what you ended up using.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 09, 2013, 10:58:38 AM
Quote from: 83TB;410823
Great work!!  How about a quick parts list, on what you ended up using.

Good idea, I'll edit the first post.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: 83TB on March 09, 2013, 02:21:25 PM
I found out of a 2003 complete for 250.00, I am using aftermarket speedo electric gauge
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on March 09, 2013, 07:11:35 PM
What type of guage are you using? I'm tempted to go this way.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: 83TB on April 01, 2013, 02:47:08 PM
can shorties fit ok?  Did you make the long tubes work?

Quote from: bigbada1;410162
I actually used the SN T5 in my car with the SN bell (you must use the SN throwout arm) the only draw back to this setup is trying to run long tube headers. It actually puts the shifter back about 1/2 further too.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 23, 2014, 01:29:08 AM
Just a quick update. there was a supercoupe in the junkyard today. I noticed the shifter handle was straight up, rather then the extreme offset of the sn-95 shifter handle. since the shifter sits a bit too far back, I decided this would be a good fit. its a bit shorter, but long gorilla arms will probably reach fine. now that I got the cougar on the road, ill be doing more work on this when I have time.

I figured out how to fix the vss to oss differences. I need the tailshaft off of a 82-98 t-5 and swap it on. from what I've seen, this shouldn't be too hard. i will clearance the 5th gear shaft, then I should end up with an accurate speedo and be able to keep a .68 od gear, rather then swapping in a 94-98 shaft and getting stuck with the higher rpm .73 ratio.

Then I can calculate actual mileage and install a trip computer finally.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: vinnietbird on February 23, 2014, 09:21:10 AM
Haystack, you need to post some pics of the car.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 23, 2014, 07:16:19 PM
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2014-02-23%2016.57.50.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bosenKevin_02/media/2014-02-23%2016.57.50.jpg.html)
 (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2014-02-23%2017.00.48.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bosenKevin_02/media/2014-02-23%2017.00.48.jpg.html)
 (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2014-02-23%2017.05.44.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bosenKevin_02/media/2014-02-23%2017.05.44.jpg.html)
 (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d82/bosenKevin_02/2013-04-11165816.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/bosenKevin_02/media/2013-04-11165816.jpg.html)

picture of before with sn-95 handle, the two side by side, then the new one. I especially hated 2nd because it would interfere with the ash tray lid. I believe that is solved now.

Also included a picture of the car about 20miles from the Canadian boarder from right after the swap.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 23, 2014, 07:18:19 PM
I also think I could easily solve the shifter boot now. I was worried it would bunch up under the shifter and get in the way of the auto.console plate in 2nd gear.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: 1BadBird on February 23, 2014, 08:35:07 PM
Nice!! Glad everything has worked out for you.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 23, 2014, 08:41:31 PM
I figure I put about 60k miles on that $150 t5. My odometer doesn't work, but i figure its sitting just below 250k miles, it was at 190k before the swap.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: TOM Renzo on February 24, 2014, 07:05:07 AM
DUDE better kick that habit of smoking. Those CAMELS will due you in. The stick is a real good fit for a tall DUDE!!! I like the shorter ones without the bend because i am a MIDGET!!! Looks like you have it pulled back in gear. If so it is a very nice setup and choice. You did good STACKS. Nice job!!
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 24, 2014, 02:57:29 PM
Yup, I popped it into second on both pictures. the longer shifter litterly hit the ashtray lid. the shorter handle is about 1 1/2" away from the shifter plate surround where it was touching before.

Once I find an appropriate shift boot to fit over the handle, ill attach it to the shifter surround and it will look pretty factory rather then a hack job.

Tom, thanks for the kind words. I am proud of the swap. in the next year or so this car is going to start getting a lot better now that I have another car. I plan to swap the engine with my new block, some gt-40 heads, explorer intake, dual exhaust, h.o. cam computer and injectors. I'm hoping to hit about 250 with the swap and my goal is to have it done before winter.

I also need to replace the power steering rack and motor mounts bolts are broken off inside the block and its eating oil like crazy, so I think its safe to say it will be coming out soon.

As far as smoking goes, I am going to quit Wednesday and hopefully be over it by the following Monday.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Beau on February 24, 2014, 03:43:07 PM
Quote from: Haystack;429444
As far as smoking goes, I am going to quit Wednesday and hopefully be over it by the following Monday.

Best performance gain ever. LOL

Don't forget upgraded valve springs in your '40 heads...the stockers won't like the HO cam. With a good exhaust setup, and a decent engine, not one that's been beat to , you'll likely make at least 250...there's a lot of guys who dropped in an explorer block, nothing more than a cam swap, and better valvesprings, and good exhaust, hit 300. Usually with lower mileage blocks though.

A TFS-1 cam would definitely get 300. That's my plan with a very similar setup.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on February 24, 2014, 04:11:37 PM
Yeah, I don't need to smoke anymore, and I'm done paying for it. I will get agitated easily, so this weekend I'm gonna stay by myself for a few days starting Wednesday night and just be done with it. I quit about a year ago for 8 months until my divorce got all shiznitty and went to jail on false charges. it was kill someone or leave pissed for a few days, and I picked it back up again then. it was a really dark time for me.

First time I quit I was sure I was done. things are getting better for me now and all the drama is gone.

I have a new 85 block with some stock s.o. junk I've had sitting for the last 10 years or so I want to get going. I want to stay with as many stock or factory parts as possible and keep the car driving. I'm tempted to actual get an rv cam because down the road I want to get a small trailer and air shocks so I can tow and carry some bigger things when I occasionally go out of state for work.

I wouldn't mid leaving it stock, but I have all the parts almost already and if I gotta tear it all apart, might as well make it better.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: TOM Renzo on February 25, 2014, 06:34:18 PM
Likie i said you did a good job on that conversion. Looks real good
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Beau on February 25, 2014, 06:40:25 PM
I'd just run a TFS-1 cam, or even an HO, with good gearing, they'll give you the grunt to pull a trailer. The weight of the car will be a limiting factor before the cam's torque provision, I think.

The 5.0 HO makes as much, or more torque than the 5.0 trucks did of the same year. The only major difference was the cam, and SEFI vs bank fire of the injector pulse. Not to mention firing order, but that is probably insignificant compared to the cam itself...

Ho cam, gears, and good exhaust...you'll be able to pull a trailer easily...don't forget the trans cooler if you're running the AOD. ;)
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on May 09, 2014, 12:44:24 AM
I've been playing with shifter boots. both an sc tbird and taurus sho boot fit well, but with the shorter super coupe handle it bunches up a lot. i might go with a short throw shifter if i can find one cheap. 30% less throw and the handles are a lot more straight, but overall height of the  looks the same.

i found one locally for $90, but im gonna wait a bit and see if he will knock down the price some.

i plan to attach the boot right to the aod floor shift cover plate with some double sided tape. now all i really need to do is seal the shifter seal a bit better to the floor and throw some.self tappers in there to hold it in place incase the silicon fails.

can't wait to have a bit of money coming in so that i can actually start working on the bird again.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: sarjxxx on May 13, 2014, 05:35:21 PM
Wow don't know how I missed this thread.... I had know idea you did a build thread for the swap. I actually find this very helpful. So thanks for that.

I feel your pain on the shift handle.... I don't think I could stand to use the curved on either... esp with my cupholder mod placement lol.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on May 13, 2014, 08:33:43 PM
It clears the ash tray when its open or closed. my bad motor mounts let the whole assembly shift and made it so that the  rattles against the ash tray lid.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on May 18, 2014, 12:38:52 AM
After doing a bit more research, the 99-04 trans tailshaft housing uses a different mounting point for the trans cross brace, which is why my aod mount worked fine.

the clearancing issue with 5th gear and a gear driven vss is caused because 5th gear is wider and the speedo gear is actually located at a different place in the later 99-04 tailshaft. the 5th gear shaft is also slightly larger, hence the need for a bit of clearancing.

lucky me though. I've got a lathe all ready to go if i do actually go through and do this. mainly i want an accurate speedo so i can install a trip computer and see what kind of gas mileage i am actually getti.g out of the ed thing.

long story short, swapping tail shaft housings will require machini.g the 5th gear shaft, modifying or usong the correct cross member, and possibly mounting issues with the stock style vss.

I'm starting to wonder if a speedo calibrater might be worth it for $180.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on December 21, 2018, 11:08:19 AM
I know we have kind of spoken through comments back and forth a bit about a trans swap, but i need your help if you could lend some! I was going to rebuild my old AOD(too expensive) so i got one from a pull apart yard( tail shaft was too big) didnt wanna pull it apart myself, my knowledge isnt vast enough. So, I bought a 97 v6 mustang with a t-5. I want to swap it into my 88 t-bird 5.0. I read your write up on it and i wanna make sure i have it straight...

-I need a T-5 with bell housing from my v6 sn95 - check
-Pedals and clutch cable from a gt fox body stang - need
-92-96 F-150 5.0 manual trans mini-starter - need
-1980's F-150 (4.9l im assuming) 11'' clutch kit - need
-1980's F-150 (4.9l Im also assuming) 11'' Flywheel - need

this is what ive gathered from your write up, What other parts are absolutely necessary for the build so i know what all i need to get it done in a couple days? I NEED this car running before the end of the year. Any and all info that i dont already have would be amazing and much appreciated!!

Thank you

Also i tried to PM you but it wouldnt let me due to lack of space lol
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on December 22, 2018, 08:30:50 AM
I used the 86ish f-150 302 clutch.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on January 03, 2019, 10:25:53 AM
Ok so i wanted to share my progress, and ask a couple questions. So far I have the clutch, flywheel, and trans in. got the shifter in and new center console fitted. I was wondering about the trans cross-member and mount... what did you use? ive tried reusing the one i have on the old aod and the one from the sn95 neither seem to fit. also what did you do to wire the new starter in? im not an electrically savvy person at all lol... anyways any help would be appreciated!
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 03, 2019, 04:22:52 PM
Thick goes on the same post as the battery so it is always hot. The other small wire goes on the other post.

I reused my stock 87 v-8 cross member, but the mounts are "adjustable" if needed. There is a small weld on the round tube where the tube can slide. Grind off the weld and you can slide it around for ideal placement then tack it back on with a welder.

The 94-98 trans uses the same back housing as a fox Stang. The 99-04 uses a different longer tailshaft. The longer one I was able to use my old aod cross member.

You will also have to jump the neutrual saftey switch. This is the two wires on a four pin plug that went to the aod near the shifter rod if I remember right.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 03, 2019, 04:26:21 PM
I just noticed you said 4.9 f-150 flywheel...

Make sure this is the 302 28oz I'm balance. If it is the 4.9 300ci i-6 flywheel, it will not be balanced properly.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 03, 2019, 04:29:26 PM
If you find yourself stuck, feel free to to shoot me a text or phone call. 4three5-2two4-9nine68

My name is Kevin.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on January 04, 2019, 11:13:46 AM
Thanks Kevin! I actually got the 302 flywheel and clutch for an 87 f150 so it should be correct now. also i only have 2 wires that come down and plug into the trans, one is the reverse light and the other the speedo sensor.. how would i do the neutral safety switch? and also the old starter(big one) only has one wire to it. the new on(small one) has a place for the one wire but also has one already on it, how do i wire that one... to the negative battery terminal? that all i have left to do and it should be done completely! im excited to say the least lol
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 04, 2019, 12:23:43 PM
Both wires from the starter go to the starter solenoid. Like I said, the big wire goes to the post your battery is on, the small wire goes to the opposite post.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 04, 2019, 12:55:01 PM
I couldn't find my notes on the nss, I'm 95% sure it's oart of the 4 pin connection with reverse lights that went to the aod.

If I remember right, I had a harness from a Stang that split the reverse and nss. On the t-5 it plugs in to the cover plate near the shifter. Then the reverse lights go to its own 2 pin connection near the tailshaft.

Sorry if that wasn't much help, but if you have four wires, two go to reverse and two go to the nss. The two that go to the nss need jumped. You can cut off the connection and stick them together if you don't have the harness.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on January 04, 2019, 02:03:35 PM
Ok cool thanks for the help brother! ill get the starter done today, and the trans i have doesnt have the connection on the top, just the two on the side and they plugged directly into the old harness
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 04, 2019, 05:29:49 PM
They one is a speedo connector, that one is in the rear of the trans by the tailshaft. So the other two wires will be the nss. the sn-95 does not use a nss, which is why it's missing on the trans and harness. While the fox did use them.

That's why you need to jump it.

Good luck man.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on January 05, 2019, 02:23:20 PM
ok cool. so the last question i have then is how do i jump the neutral safety switch? everything else is done.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Haystack on January 06, 2019, 05:27:11 PM
I had a plug with a looped wire. You could cut the two wires and splice then together if you don't have the connector.

To do a test drive, you could actually just start the car with a screwdriver...

Make sure the car is in neutral, get a screwdriver or a another long metal tool, and stick it straight acrossed the two big posts on your solinoid by Tuesday battery.

This will bypass the key to start the car.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on January 06, 2019, 05:55:57 PM
I dont have any connectors with looped wires. which wires would need to be cut and spliced? i can do the solenoid jump to test it. I guess ill have to pay someone much smarter than i am to do the rest.. Im super frustrated cause i need this car running and cant seem to get it right.
Title: sn-95 v-6 t-5 behind a 5.0
Post by: Nathan88bird on January 06, 2019, 06:57:46 PM
also what about the clutch dump switch? needed or no?