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Thread: Steering saws back and forth on curves

  1. #1
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    Unhappy Steering saws back and forth on curves

    As I take a gradual increase radius curve such as freeway cloverleafs, I feel some sawing back and forth of the steering wheel. I have 15:1 ratio steering. The tires and wheels have been changed (to 225/60/15), a front wheel alignment has been done and still I have this condition. The car feels solid, true and tight otherwise as I drive. Any thoughts on what could cause this or past experiences?
    87 Sport with HO cam, 19# injectors,TB+Upper Intake,87 Mustang EEC, Cloyes double roller timing chain, Kirban adj. fuel regulator and Autometer fuel pres. guage, HO shorty headers + LSC H-pipe and Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers, Ford Racing 9mm wires, K&N filter / no air resonator, 8.8 XR7 Diff., V rated tires, Project ongoing.

  2. #2
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    Every once in awhile, in a turn, I can feel my wheel kind of "pushing"
    a little....I'd say it's probably something in the PS pump..as far as what can be done, maybe one from a Stang has more...whatever..fluid flow/pressure?
    I'm going to be putting on a 15:1 rack this weekend, I'll let you know if mine does it worse with the TC rack.
    '87 Mustang notch; 5 lug, PBR calipers, 3.55 gears, SFC's, mild 5.0 with '40P's, Cobra intake, E cam, BBK headers and X pipe, Flowmaster exhaust.
    "still slower than your grandma's scooter"..

  3. #3
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    i'm going all out on this one... I say ball joints. That's the most common swaying problem... and plus i got like no fluid in my power steering pump and it don't sway... my car just vibrates.

    Edit: if you look under your control arm where your ball joint is... you will see a rod in the center of your ball joint... if your ball joint is good that rod should stick out a little, if it is bad then it will be seated up into the housing a little.
    84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip, BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow mufflers


    Project Thread with pics

  4. #4
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    ball joints possibly...tie rods/ends
    1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

    Rest of the country, Welcome to Massachusettes. Enjoy your stay.

    Halfbreed... Mango Orange Y2K Mustang GT
    FRPP complete 2000 Cobra engine swap, T56 n' junk...
    ~John~

  5. #5
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    Well, I know for sure the ball joints are bad on my car.
    Going to be replacing them all within days/daze....
    '87 Mustang notch; 5 lug, PBR calipers, 3.55 gears, SFC's, mild 5.0 with '40P's, Cobra intake, E cam, BBK headers and X pipe, Flowmaster exhaust.
    "still slower than your grandma's scooter"..

  6. #6
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    Ball joints, tie rods, have you checked your sway bar and endlink bushings?
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replies, it gives me some ideas what to look for. Those rods do stick out of the ball joints. What should I look out for on the sway bar and endlink bushings?
    87 Sport with HO cam, 19# injectors,TB+Upper Intake,87 Mustang EEC, Cloyes double roller timing chain, Kirban adj. fuel regulator and Autometer fuel pres. guage, HO shorty headers + LSC H-pipe and Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers, Ford Racing 9mm wires, K&N filter / no air resonator, 8.8 XR7 Diff., V rated tires, Project ongoing.

  8. #8
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    The sway bar link would be broke. or the bushings all used up. If you got some money, like 20 bucks, change'em anyway, it's a big differance to your handling.

    You may check your wheel bearings. Jack up the tire and hold it top and bottom, then jiggle it, to much movement could mean they're loose or worn. Other than that, i'd still say ball joints.
    84 TC 302 -5.0L/t5/7.5 locking rear and a 3.45 gear, Edelbrock Intake, Aluminum Heads, Edlebrock 65mm Throttlebody, Edlebrock Cam, 24lb injectors & MAS Air Sensor calibrated via chip, BBK headers, Catback H pipe, Magnaflow mufflers


    Project Thread with pics

  9. #9
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    Yeah the sway bar endlink and sway bar bushings tend to wear out with age because they are made of rubber. After almost 20 years they're pretty much toast. I'd just change 'em to be on the safe side. I used to have a slight shimmy above 55mph and I changed the bushings and endlinks and no more shimmy . Oh yeah make sure you get an endlink kit and not just the bushings. You will destroy the factory endlinks taking them out. I bent both of mine. Besides the endlinks in the kit are much thicker than the factory ones.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the tips. I think I'll go ahead with the endlinks and sway bar bushings as a first step when I take the car out in spring. If that don't help, then no great loss, it probably would have needed changing anyways.
    87 Sport with HO cam, 19# injectors,TB+Upper Intake,87 Mustang EEC, Cloyes double roller timing chain, Kirban adj. fuel regulator and Autometer fuel pres. guage, HO shorty headers + LSC H-pipe and Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers, Ford Racing 9mm wires, K&N filter / no air resonator, 8.8 XR7 Diff., V rated tires, Project ongoing.

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