Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    187
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    I know this is an old post, but it's way easier than this to change the odometer mileage. You'll still have to take the needle and speedo face off, and disconect the odometer housing from the stepper motor as shown in MasterBlaster's pics (btw, congrats MasterBlaster on finally getting a digital camera), but once that's done, my method will allow you to change the odometer mileage in under a minute.

    With the front of the odometer housing facing you, grab the large black number wheel of the desired numeral you wish to change, and pull to the left. You see, a spring on the left side of the odometer puts rightward pressure on the number wheels so that they stay intermeshed. pulling to the left will disengage the number wheel from the tiny gears directly to the right, allowing you to free twirl the wheel to the desired numeral. For the number wheels in the middle, you will have to not only disengage them from the tiny black gear on the right, but also from all the other number wheels to the left. There's enough travel in the spring to allow for this though. It's best to change the numeral positions one at a time, so that you can make sure you're keeping the odometer numbers lined up correctly.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Hatfield PA
    Posts
    339
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    Just a confirmation on "joefriday's" post, it is a breeze and it works well !!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    910
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Yeah, I had to comment as well! I've taken a few speedos apart to match new motors and all I ever did was pull the numbers apart and turn them to where they needed to be. But I guess either way it beats the old "elec drill til it flips back around to zero" method I used to hear about from my dad!
    1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
    '89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Port Coquitlam, Canada
    Posts
    1,883
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    You're all wrong! Do it my way, or else!!!
    Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

    1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
    1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Belleview, FL
    Posts
    2,810
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)

    Default

    --somewhat relevant--
    I have the base cluster with the dig. speedo and the thing is WAY off. It shows about 15% slow. (shows 50 when I'm going 60. the gap is higher the faster I go). Obviously, it's also having quite an effect on my odometer. Does anyone know how to calibrate this? I know its not because of over/undersized tires.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Middle Sackville, NS, CANADA
    Posts
    9,827
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)

    Default

    Was the rear end or transmission in your car ever replaced? If either one was replaced you may have the wrong speedo gear. These speedos are electric and get their signal from the VSS (located where the speedo cable would normally go on the transmission). It goes by "pulses per mile" to get its reading, and the only way to calibrate it is to make sure you've got the correct speedometer gear.
    2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

    1988 5.0 Thunderbird SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Belleview, FL
    Posts
    2,810
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)

    Default

    thx, um...not sure. I believe the cluster module has been replaced, but I don't know about the tranny or the diff. I've only had the car a few months, and the guy I bought it from only put a new muffler. I have no idea about the 18+ years before that. Is there an easy way to tell?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Belleview, FL
    Posts
    2,810
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)

    Default

    nevermind. After taking a closer look at it, I'm pretty sure the transmission has been replace at some point. Probably explains why it has had trouble going into overdrive since he bought it as well.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Lansing, Michigan
    Posts
    160
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)

    Default

    AWESOME THREAD! I did the t/c to V8 tach mod (2 51k resistors for all of 30 cents from the local electronics supply store) with directions from the cool cats site (THANKS FOR THE INFO!) and just now did the speedo mileage adjustment using a combo of MasterBlaster's photo directions and joefriday's easier method. worked GREAT! Sunday the t/c cluster will be going in place of the digital dash cluster.
    Mike

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •