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Thread: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

  1. #1
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    Default How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)


    Hmmmm... I just got this new speedo, but the mileage is wrong.
    I know I have to take it apart to change it, but where to start?
    I guess I have to get the pointer off, so I just pull, right?



    That usually pops off the cover, leaving the pointer behind.
    I find it easier to gently lift while turning the pointer down
    past zero, overcoming the friction holding the pointer on the needle.



    There you go. The hollow tube fits over the tiny needle in the hole.



    Take out 2 screws to remove the face. Try not to scratch it.



    Take out 3 screws to get the odometer assembly off the speedo.



    Flip it over, and there's the "works".
    You'll need to get those little gears out of the way, and
    since they're held in by a metal shaft, let's remove it.



    Here's the shaft. The tripmeter has its own shaft. Ignore it.



    Pop it out with something skinny. I used a mini screwdriver.



    Don't go too far, just 1/8" or so until the splines are out.



    The shaft is now free to pull out, releasing the gears.




    Closeup of the gears. Note the "long" and "short" teeth.
    Each gear engages the teeth of the wheel to its left.
    The long teeth slide along the slight groove on the wheel
    to the right, "bracing" the left wheel so it can't turn.
    When the "notch" in the right wheel comes around (you can
    just see it between the 5 and 6), the long tooth drops into
    it, spinning the gear and the left wheel by one digit.



    Whoops! I mean, I meant to do that!!!!!



    Now you can flip the odo over and spin the wheels to set your
    new mileage.



    Flip it back, and note the other numbers are all 5 digits off,
    so 298650 becomes 743105. However, the important numbers you'll
    need in a few minutes are below those... >854216< .



    Okay, here's the fiddly bit that takes all the time, and needs
    good lighting and a steady hand. Slide the pin back in, putting
    one gear on it at a time, remembering to get 2 of the "long"
    teeth on the groove with a short tooth between. Tweezers are a
    big help here. Make sure the digits all stay "in line".



    Okay, gears are in, the mileage looks right, let's test-fit the face
    and see the results of my wonderful job.



    Ummm... heh, heh. I think I made a boo-boo.



    Here's the gears installed the wrong way, so the shaft is over
    the "gap" between digits. All you can do is pull the shaft out
    and start all over.



    Here's the proper way, with the gears covering the digits.



    Ahhhhh, that's better.



    Time to put the shaft all the way back in. Here's those splines again.



    Give it a good push with something flat (my Torx driver is flat on
    the end). You shouldn't need to hammer on it, it's only going into plastic.



    Here's the odometer stepper motor that turns the worm gear that turns the drive gear that turns the idler gear that turns the digits that live in the house that Jack built. Oh, sorry... that's a different song.



    Put the housing back on - 3 screws.



    Put the face back on - 2 screws.



    Place the pointer back on its needle. Don't worry about getting it
    straight off the bat.



    Here it is "slightly" out of line. No problem, it's a friction fit
    and I haven't pushed it on all the way.



    Gently nudge it down to exactly zero.



    Give it a push with something flat to "set" it on the needle.
    If it's not exactly where you want it, gently swing the pointer
    around to "peg" it at one end of the scale or the other, then
    push it just a bit more so it turns on the needle. Let it go
    back to zero and see how close you are. Repeat as needed.



    Put back the cap that you accidentally ripped off in step 2.



    There it is, back in the cluster with the right mileage, and
    the pointer right at zero. Isn't it pretty?
    Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

    1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
    1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

    sweeeeeeeeeeeet! i got it. turns out i had the black gears facing the wrong direction. i sure do appreciate the help.

    this needs to be in the coolcats tech section.
    1979 Ford Fairmont

    5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


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    Default Re: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

    Sticky sticky sticky!!!!!!!
    Temporarily Foxless? Ride the Bull...

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    Default Re: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

    Pain. In. The. ASS.
    -Jim
    1987 Cougar LS 5.0


  5. #5
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    Default Re: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

    good advice but wheres the one that tells us how to change to 140 mph speedo?
    1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
    1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
    1983 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
    1979 Mercury Cougar XR7 302HO

  6. #6
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    Default Re: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

    now if only we had some kind of pictures to let us know what you were talking about....j/k good post. One of the Admins should sticky this
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  7. #7
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    Default Re: How to change your analog odometer reading (lots of pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by 88turbo
    good advice but wheres the one that tells us how to change to 140 mph speedo?
    Right here:
    http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=3
    2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

    1988 5.0 Thunderbird SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

  8. #8
    waferman Guest

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    master blaster is the man

  9. #9
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    nice post man....did it awhile ago and it realy is a pain in the nutz.
    1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

    Rest of the country, Welcome to Massachusettes. Enjoy your stay.

    Halfbreed... Mango Orange Y2K Mustang GT
    FRPP complete 2000 Cobra engine swap, T56 n' junk...
    ~John~

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkirchman View Post
    Pain. In. The. ASS.
    Yea I stuck my 140 in with 25K more showing than actually on the car... Pulled the 85 mph version apart to see how to set it(and did reset it to the milage on the 140). Decided it wasn't worth the effort to pull and reset the 140. Six years later, still 25K ahead...


    BTW a thin piece of tape across the number wheels helps keep them in place during reassmbly...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed << New 49th Birthday Picture

    1972 Comet GT - 306 C4

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