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Thread: Electrical issues

  1. #11
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    I'll have to check EEC relay this weekend. I'm bout tempted to go get a motorcraft or an accel module and try that just to see what happens. Like I said earlier..I've been through a lot of modules on my car

  2. #12
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    I would do some trouble shooting before buying parts.
    If key off cuts power to the EEC power relay, that should also cut power to the fuel pump relay. No matter what the TFI ignition module is doing.

  3. #13
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    Voltage from the ignition switch at "home plate Y" to module pin 13 picks the EEC power relay.
    EEC power relay contacts closing puts voltage on the fuel pump relay coil and puts voltage on the RED wire on module pin 24. (the same RED wire that's on the injectors)
    The EEC puts ground on module pin18 and picks the fuel pump relay.
    Fuel pump relay contacts closing puts voltage on module pin 5 and the pink/black wire to the fuel pump.

    IRCM module diagram:
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  4. #14
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    Thanks..I wish it was simpler lol.
    I did get another module cause I'm tired of this cheaper ones that I've been going through every few months.
    I got an accel module.
    I do think I've got another issues with the electrical but I'm not the world's smartest at trying to figure out an electric problem.
    I've had a problem with some of the electrical anyway.
    Like someone has wired something into the fuse panel and burn up one of the fuses in the panel..it's burnt to the point to where it is fused together and I can't get a fuse in it.
    I'll try to diagnose the EEC this weekend I hope
    Thanks for help

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wpblackfoxturbo View Post
    Like someone has wired something into the fuse panel and burn up one of the fuses in the panel..it's burnt to the point to where it is fused together and I can't get a fuse in it.
    do you have a multimeter and a test light for trouble shooting electrical problems?

    Which fuse position is screwed up?
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  6. #16
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    I do have a multimeter..it's digital.
    The #17 fuse is the one that's burnt and it had to get hot enough to fuse it together because everything that fuse works does work

  7. #17
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    I suggest you pick up a test light. They are cheap and have a sharp point probe that you can back probe a connector or push through the wire insulation to check for voltage.

    $3.80 at NAPA:
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    Last edited by softtouch; 05-17-2018 at 03:21 PM.

  8. #18
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    Thanks
    I'll check into getting one

  9. #19
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    So what are you seeing with your new test light?

  10. #20
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    Well I haven't quite got to that point yet. I've been getting the car to run right..well somewhat right. I bought a new accel module and my car didn't like it. I don't understand unless it was a bad module so I got a replacement in and the car still didn't start right and then it wouldn't start at all. So I put my old module on the car and it fired right up and run as always. I did try something tonight to see what happens. I started the car and let it run for a few minutes and then turned if off and instead of turning switch on and then off to shut off fuel pump..I let fuel pump run until it shut itself off, it took about 30 seconds and fuel pump turn off on its own. So I did the sequence again and after shutting off car the fuel pump ran for about 30seconds again and then shut off. I have done any electrical testing on car yet because of weather but I do plan to. It just puzzles me why the pump runs for 30sec. then turns off.
    It's making me wonder if I do have a EEC problem and if I do where would I find one

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