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Thread: Electrical issues

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wpblackfoxturbo View Post
    It's making me wonder if I do have a EEC problem and if I do where would I find one

    Do you remember at any point smelling a burning smell around the time the problems started? If a capacitor or something burned out in the ECU you might be able to smell it, like an electrical fire smell. You could also just pull the ECU out and see if any visible damage or shorting has occured, if so that would tell you for sure what the problem is... When mine burned up it left a nasty black streak across it where the cap burned out
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  2. #22
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    Is the IRCM module bolted to the strut tower? I am pretty sure they have to be grounded.

    The voltage on the RED/Light Green Stripe wire on the IRCM connector pin 13 should drop to ZERO when you turn the ignition switch off, and the fuel pump should stop.
    If the voltage is dropping to ZERO and the pump keeps running, the IRCM is broke. That is if you are in a stock wiring environment.

    Is the fuse 17 socket still getting hot?
    If the fuse 17 socket was shorted out with something because it was blowing fuses and it got hot enough to melt the fuse socket.
    Then the wire from fuse 17 to whatever was causing the overload would have gotten hot enough to melt the wire insulation.
    And it could have melted the insulation on adjacent wires in the same cable harness. So you could have some circuits shorted together.
    .

  3. #23
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    I never had any electrical burning smell in car. I did get a reman ECU this year and has to send back because my car wouldn't run at all. The IRCM is mounted on fender well or strut tower. As far as I know the car was all stock, but obviously the guy I bought the car from had alot of issues with it. I don't know if something got hot in the wiring and burnt the fuse panel or if the guy had something wired into it and overloaded it. Ive often wondered about the wiring. I'm constantly going through inginiton modules, my fog lights will cut off and my headlights will turn off if I drive it for 5_10 miles..as long as I don't run the fog lights the lights are fine. My gauge cluster acts funny from time to time. I did do a dash swap in int a couple of years ago and I never noticed any burnt wires when I swapped the dash.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by wpblackfoxturbo View Post
    my fog lights will cut off and my headlights will turn off if I drive it for 5_10 miles..as long as I don't run the fog lights the lights are fine.
    The headlight switch has a built-in circuit breaker. It opens when it gets too hot and closes when it cools off.
    The fog lights put additional load on the headlight switch.
    Are the headlights and fog lights stock?

    If you look at the connector on the HL switch it will probably look like it has been overheating.

    A new switch and cable harness plug would be the fix.
    Or take the heavy electrical load off the HL switch by installing relays to carry the load.

  5. #25
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    Thanks. Car has original fog lights and I have sylvania ultra bulbs in it

  6. #26
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    Not familiar with those bulbs. Don't know if they draw a higher current than stock.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by softtouch View Post
    A new switch and cable harness plug would be the fix.
    Or take the heavy electrical load off the HL switch by installing relays to carry the load.
    This is a good idea no matter what, it will make the headlights brighter to by eliminating the "bottleneck" of the stock headlight switch, and is also a good fire prevention measure...
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  8. #28
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    Article on installing relays for the headlights and fog lamps:
    http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/insta...ght_relays.htm

  9. #29
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    Thanks for all yalls help.
    I haven't got around to doing much to the car.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wpblackfoxturbo View Post
    I never had any electrical burning smell in car. I did get a reman ECU this year and has to send back because my car wouldn't run at all. The IRCM is mounted on fender well or strut tower. As far as I know the car was all stock, but obviously the guy I bought the car from had alot of issues with it. I don't know if something got hot in the wiring and burnt the fuse panel or if the guy had something wired into it and overloaded it. Ive often wondered about the wiring. I'm constantly going through inginiton modules, my fog lights will cut off and my headlights will turn off if I drive it for 5_10 miles..as long as I don't run the fog lights the lights are fine. My gauge cluster acts funny from time to time. I did do a dash swap in int a couple of years ago and I never noticed any burnt wires when I swapped the dash.
    Check the wiring going to your dimmer switch. My '84 had issues there and did what your lights are doing. The insulation was breaking down allowing wires to touch and short out.

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