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Thread: Engine timing education needed....

  1. #1
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    Default Engine timing education needed....

    I'll try to word this right......I feel like an idiot already even asking......

    Since I installed the new distributor a couple of weeks ago, the car has been acting a little weak, not right. I thought I had set the timing at 14 degrees.

    I have a new timing light I got a few months ago and was using it. it has the dial on the back, and I lost the instructions...never used one like this in my life.

    I removed the spout, started the car and checked the timing. It should 10 degrees. I set the dial on the timing light at 0 and set the timing to 14, car wasn't right......so, I set the dial to 14 degrees, and the timing on the balancer at 14....car is running stronger than it ever has so far. I guess my question is, what is the proper way to use this light with the dial? Did I use it right at all? My old light was simply aim and time. No digital panel, no dial.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  2. #2
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    Default

    vinnie,
    the knob to me would be compatible with a carb to tune for dwell.

  3. #3
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    You have the right idea except the dial is for advance. You can either set it to 14 then line up zero on the balancer or leave the dial at zero and use it like your old light.

    John

  4. #4
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    I did the same thing. I had a good old school timing light. The bulb finally burned out, couldn't order a replacement so bought s new one. Same thing happened to me, and I felt like an idiot also.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  5. #5
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    That answered my questions. Thanks a lot!!!

    I'm going to experiment. I will set the light at 14, then move the timing (with the distributor) to zero......if I read that correctly above, then try it the other way (set the dial at zero and set the balancer at 14). I appreciate you guys.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  6. #6
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    I think you should revise your thread title to "Engine timing light education needed" lol
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  7. #7
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    Good point. LOL
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

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