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Thread: front end alignment

  1. #1
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    Default front end alignment

    hi all,

    I'm due for a front end alignment after replacing the L & R inner & outer tie rods & struts on my 87 TC...what are some good alignment specs I should be shooting for when I take my car to the alignment shop?

    My car has the following in terms of setup/suspension (don't know if all of this info is really necessary but I'll list it anyways):

    18in front wheels (I believe 235/40/18 tires up front)
    MOOG inner & outer tie rods
    96-98 SN95 spindles
    Steeda X2 ball joints
    Koni STR.T struts
    Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates
    The car is lowered slightly. I don't know what springs were used and by how much the car was lowered as all of that was done by a previous owner


    thanks!
    1987 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe

  2. #2
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    Default

    Just use the specs that came with the MM caster/camber plates. If the alignment shop will not do it go to one that will.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/As...MMCC8388r4.pdf

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    Just use the specs that came with the MM caster/camber plates. If the alignment shop will not do it go to one that will.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/As...MMCC8388r4.pdf
    This. As an alignment tech for over a decade now, I always expect customers who have heavy suspension mods to provide some sort of specs for me to work off of. Also, be open and honest with the tech working on your car what has been done to it. It makes our life easier.

    If the alignment tech seems at all concerned with you having a modified suspensions, or bringing in your own specs, then you need to decline service and find a tech who will work with you.

    Good luck!

  4. #4
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    thanks all
    1987 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe

  5. #5
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    I set mine at +4.5 caster, -.75 camber (stock), and whatever the stock toe was (don't remember) +4.5 is about all you'll get for caster, but it's just right. You can certainly ask for whatever camber angle you want, I chose -.75 because the factory camber angle is pretty good on the street and easy on the tires. If you race, or spend any time on a track you might consider more starting with -1.0 or -1.25 and adding or subtracting until you like it. I feel like you should always stick close to the factory toe spec.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

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