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Thread: Quick door hinge question

  1. #1
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    Default Quick door hinge question

    I have a bunch of play in my lower door hinge. The upper is easy enough to swap out, but the lower has the spring and roller to hold the door open.

    My plan was to pull the hinges and fix em on the bench with one of those Dorman kits, but while I was junkyarding to get a spare, I realized the bottom hinge has two regular bolts and the third is obstructed.

    Looking at it, it looks like there is some sort of rivet or something? Any easy way to remove it?

    If its possible to drill out the hinge with it installed, I can do that I guess, but it would be much easier on the bench.

    Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  2. #2
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    Forget that dorman shit, order the ford stuff if there's still parts availability.

    I did the hinge on my driver's door on the Mountaineer 2 years ago this summer. Fuck dorman stuff. Junk.

    The '98 I drive now also needs the front door hinges replaced (both sides)....I'll take it to a body shop. I ain't doing that shit ever again.
    '84 Mustang, work in (sloooooooow) progress...
    '87 Stang notch
    1994 Ford F150 Flareside
    1997 Explorer V8 conversion (in progress)
    1998 Explorer 5.0
    and a couple of tractors. Ford, of course.
    FORD power, for life!

  3. #3
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    Well, I got three good sets of stock own hinges, just don't know how to get them off.

    The rebuild Dorman crap (yes I know its crap) will just to hold the door on cars im not driving.

    I am currently delivering pizza full time. Opening and closing the door hinges 100 times a day takes its toll. Usually only the top hinge goes bad, but I let this one go too long.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  4. #4
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    The lower hinge has a nut on the inside of the "A" pillar. You will have to remove the interior kick panel to get to it. On my ford trucks I use a GM pins and bushings, cut the pin to length and carefully enlarge the holes to press fit the bushings in. Either a clip of some sort or a tack weld to hold the pin from working out. In most cases you want the pin to rotate so things wear properly. This can be done on the car, but as you stated it is much easier on a work bench.

    here is where I get most of my hardware. If you flip back one page it has the pins and bushings I use. Maybe stop at a local body shop and see what they have. I agree that most of the Dorman stuff is crap.
    https://classccatalogs.mscdirect.com...2017/J-127.php

  5. #5
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    Thanks, didn't even of occur to me it could bolt in the other way.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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