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Thread: Subframe connectors, build, buy, advice?

  1. #1
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    Default Subframe connectors, build, buy, advice?

    Hello everyone!

    As im digging deeper into my car, and planning my moves for upgrades so i can do it all in one big push, I am thinking that subrame connectors need to be put on the car. My 87 T will mostly serve as a fun, not quite daily driver, and not going to make tons of horsepower, but there are two reasons i am thinking subframe connectors are gonna have to be needed.

    1) I've always owned full frame cars until the last year and a half. I'm used to having the beef under there.

    2) i like autocross racing, and i plan to occasionally run the T around the track.

    so, i'm up for suggestions , for pictures, for smart remarks, what's the best route to go? do i buy them somewhere? do i fire up the plasma and the wire welder and build them? if i'm building, does anyone have pics of what they have built, so i can copy their designs?

    Thanks everyone for the input. i promise, I'll be tearing into the car soon, just a few more projects to go beforehand...

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    http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...85-TBird/page4

    Link to mine, based off of global West design.

    If you donít mind cutting floor pans thru the floor sub frame connectors are most likely stronger, there are some here that have done them, jcassity and Daminc come to mind.

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    I basically have what ammount to a under car design that looks like the Maximum Motorsports pieces. They have worked fine for me. Car feels solid and more planted with the subframe connectors.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

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    Quote Originally Posted by bodyman View Post
    http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...85-TBird/page4

    Link to mine, based off of global West design.

    If you don’t mind cutting floor pans thru the floor sub frame connectors are most likely stronger, there are some here that have done them, jcassity and Daminc come to mind.
    I'm liking these designs, what size and wall thickness did you use, if you remember?

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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    I basically have what ammount to a under car design that looks like the Maximum Motorsports pieces. They have worked fine for me. Car feels solid and more planted with the subframe connectors.
    i'll check on MM site, see what they look like

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    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...rd?prefilter=1

    Are these the ones? Anyone used them?
    Mike

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    I'm liking these designs, what size and wall thickness did you use, if you remember?
    They are 1.75 inch tube .120 wall thickness.

    Are these the ones? Anyone used them?
    Yes, those are it. Pretty sure Aerocoupe has them or at least something very similar. I never did ask what he thought about them, but looking at his car on here is how I found them.

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    I was sent plans for these by another member here.

    mfk1000ul.jpg

    I used 2X2 .120, 1X2 .120 & 3/16" plate and some assorted 1/8" plate pieces underneath. I'll get some pics tomorrow of what I did. It's basically a triangulated connector setup with rear seat bulkhead plates. On the Griggs website it says that this setup increases the torsional strength extremely.
    Last edited by 1BadBird; 03-01-2018 at 08:30 PM.


    86' T/C 2.3L
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    04' Monte Carlo 3.4L
    16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo

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    Thanks for all the input guys!

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    Lot's of options.
    It's a good idea to also reinforce the seat mounts. The floorpans on these cars are getting old, and have seen a fair amount of flex and stress. Even from just daily street driving.

    I posted up CAD files for my old seat braces HERE. They were originally for a "typical" set of under the subframe rail SFC's, but they could be adapted to just about anything.
    Another benefit of adding them is they reduce the free-span of the SFC tubes, thus reducing flex.

    Another thing to think about adding is a set of "jacking rails". They are effectively just 1" square tubes welded along the inside of the rocker pinch welds. They ad stiffness, as well as giving you a solid point to jack up the car and a good place to put jack stands. You'll have to relocated parking brake cable brackets, but the little bit of extra work is worth it.

    If you want to go the extra bit, you can weld braces/supports between the SFCs and the jacking rails.
    Long live the 4-eyes! - '83 Tbird Turbo

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