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Thread: two T5s, whats the difference?

  1. #21
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    They bolt right in, that was behind my 87 302 bird. Gear ratios are identicle to the 302 gear boxes depending on the year.

    I drove the car like I stole it, spinning 1st and banging 2nd every time I drove it.

    I have a hard time keeping motor mounts together with the auto setup also, I think I replaced 3 sets on my last 86. Several of them cracked the mounts. If I blipped the throttle from a stop, it could bind the column shifter into 1st gear without touching it also.

    My thunder cat, I could pop the hood by revving the motor at idle.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    Put them up for sale on NATO (http://www.turbotbird.com/) or Four Eyed Pride (http://www.foureyedpride.com/) or here and take that $$ and buy a 90-93 Mustang 5.0 T-5. By the time you put one of the ones you got in the car and rig it to work with a V8 motor and then blow it up and pull it back out, stick the other one in, blow it up...you are gonna slap your forehead and say "I could have had a V8".
    Thats kind of my thought as well. I want to get a trans, have it rebuilt before i even put it in, and then it's good to go for many years to come. I dont want to fiddle with making this one work, and then finding another one later, and swapping pilot bearings ina and out, etc etc. i'm not building some 600hp thumper, im looking at the 300ish hp range, i want a set it and forget it type of deal.

    The axle I have is a 3.55 8.8, so everyone is right, the first gear is gonna blow.

    So, two questions for you all.

    first off, whats a fair price to ask for these two trannys? I dont need top dollar, i just would like funds to go towards the v8 trans.

    Secondly, I'm in Iowa, Northeast Iowa, to be exact. Anyone on here within a day's drive that has a V8 T5 for sale??

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    They bolt right in, that was behind my 87 302 bird. Gear ratios are identicle to the 302 gear boxes depending on the year.

    I drove the car like I stole it, spinning 1st and banging 2nd every time I drove it.
    I read through your whole build thread. I considered it. But i havent been able to locate a trans for under $500 around these parts, and at that point, i'm gonna get the fox T5.

  4. #24
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    https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/pts/...508378672.html

    Pretty damn good deal for what all he has. I would want to see the details on the rebuild and open up the inspection cover to look at the shifter forks.

  5. #25
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    I found a guy on the local mustang page, who has a T5, with rebuild recipts, for $500, comes with a brand new, never installed clutch, bellhousing, etc. I think I'm gonna go see what he has.

  6. #26
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    Enter T5 #3.





    From what I'm told, its a world class T5 out of an 89, but has the imput shaft from a 94 mustang swapped into it. Which, from what i also understand, is not gonna work for me.

    Am i reading this all right? I'll have the tag decoded in a few...

    Edit: Tag number is 13-52-169 that puts it at a V8 t5, and it does in fact have the Timkin markings on the front of the case below the input shaft, so that does indicate it is a WC. Still not the "upgraded" gearset tho.

    So, can this trans be rebuilt? if so, can i also get a "FOX" input shaft, so i can go back to running a fox body bellhousing, thus making my life simpler? Also, if im rebuilding, is there ways to somewhat easily beef this trans up, to make it a bit stronger? I see that a lot of people swap the collar around the input shaft from an aluminum to a steel one.

    or is this one destined to go to the stack with my other 4 cyl T5's?

  7. #27
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    So you can beef it up but the biggest improvement will be a positive stop shifter. I have had several on T5’s over the years and would recommend that if you do it get a good one. I currently have a Pro 5.0 with the stock shifter handle in my Coupe and it works really well. I also up graded the cluster support plate when I had mine gone through years ago.

    https://astroperformance.com/product...support-plate/

    The biggest killer of T-5’s is speed shifting so always use the clutch. Finding a Fox length input shaft shouldn’t be like looking a leprechaun but it may not be easy. Hit the Mustang forums and ask for pictures and specifically one with a part number as it should have a part number stamped on it. Remember that the shins in the input shaft bearing retainer are what set the preload so watch that when you change them out. Another tough part will be the bell housing but patience will net you one. Make sure you get the clutch fork pivot stud with the bell housing. The other item you will need is the plate between the flywheel and the block. You can buy them both new if you have to:

    https://lmr.com/products/79-93-Musta...d-Spacer-Plate
    Last edited by Aerocoupe; 07-09-2018 at 08:58 AM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    So you can beef it up but the biggest improvement will be a positive stop shifter. I have had several on T5’s over the years and would recommend that if you do it get a good one. I currently have a Pro 5.0 with the stock shifter handle in my Coupe and it works really well. I also up graded the cluster support plate when I had mine gone through years ago.

    https://astroperformance.com/product...support-plate/

    The biggest killer of T-5’s is speed shifting so always use the clutch. Finding a Fox length input shaft shouldn’t be like looking a leprechaun but it may not be easy. Hit the Mustang forums and ask for pictures and specifically one with a part number as it should have a part number stamped on it. Remember that the shins in the input shaft bearing retainer are what set the preload so watch that when you change them out. Another tough part will be the bell housing but patience will net you one. Make sure you get the clutch fork pivot stud with the bell housing. The other item you will need is the plate between the flywheel and the block. You can buy them both new if you have to:

    https://lmr.com/products/79-93-Musta...d-Spacer-Plate

    Well, i found out summit sells new input shafts of a fox length for about 50 bucks, so there's that. I think i'm just goingto have the whole trans gone through, just so i know it's fresh, and i will look into that cluster plate upgrade.

    Another buddy ( a mustang hoarder) has a Lakewood bellhousing with fork and everything that he's selling to me for peanuts, because he went the TKO route.

    As far as clutching... you gotta clutch. anything less is uncivilized.

    I'm definitely goingto be looking for an upgraded shifter. thats a must. after you row some old school Hursts on old tin, you understand exactly why they are worth the money

  9. #29
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    Lakewood bellhousing= pain in the ass. Had one and would walk everyday before I ever install another one. Worst engineered part when it comes to exhaust routing and starter service let alone the sheer weight. If you are not going to spin it over 7,000 rpm they are a waste of time. Just my opinion.

  10. #30
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    Noted. He also have two stock bellhousings, so i may just grab one of those.

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