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Thread: Recommendations for 88 Turbo Coupe Steering/Suspension

  1. #21
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    That is some excellent info. Thanks Aero! Okay so I can run out to the Pull A Part and snag some brake calipers as you said from 99+. I found a set of spindles from a 94 for $45 each at a junk yard (he has a few cars there he said). The reason why I am thinking I need to stay 94-95 is because of what MM said about the 96 dropping the rack down an inch, yet AJE let me know the 96+ were better spindles and easier to get (I guess you could use them if you bought their 1" rack drop kit for their K member. That to me would indicate lots of bumpsteer per MM's page if you dont drop the rack. I can also grab the rear axles out of one of those cars one day at the Pull A Part. Any certain year of V6 or any SN95 should work? Thanks!

  2. #22
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    So the rear axles out of a v6 SN95 would be from a 94-98 as this keeps the TC 8.8 the same width (within a 1/16" or 1/8" per side) of the stock width. Just to clarify, the 8.8 housing in the 87-88 TC's is the same 8.8 housing that is in the 87-93 V8 Fox Mustang. The 8.8 rear that is in the 93 Cobra is simply a 87-88 TC rear.

    If you are going to use an aftermarket k-member they are typically setup for the 96+ spindles due to the better geometry. If AJE says use them then use them.

    If you are going to run the '99+ calipers remember that MM has the SS braided lines that will hook straight up to our cars existing hard lines. The '94 and up calipers use banjo fittings where the 93 and down Fox cars have pipe threads. If you want to run stock SN95 rubber lines up front you might need a brake line adapter to make it work. I did not use rubber lines so I cannot for the life of me remember the part number for the adapters. Search it on here and one of the guys will have used it.

  3. #23
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    That’s where the confusion is. Lol AJE said you can use the stock Fox Parts, but they just changed it a little to help with heavy braking and nose dive how they did the mounting. Though you go on MM’s site and they say if you are using a stock or stock positioned suspension k member then do not use the 96+ arms. It’s all a toss up. May end up just getting both and seeing which fits better. From the prices on the 94-95 spindles I saw on EBay, should be able to get my money back out of them if I have to sell.

  4. #24
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    • Decision must be made between using the 1994-95 spindle or the 1996-04 spindle. The best choice depends on whether a stock K-member or a Maximum Motorsports K-member is used.
    • Do not install a 1996-04 spindle on a 1979-93 Mustang fitted with a stock-geometry k-member! Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...
      • The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.
      • The lower steering arm forces the outer tie-rod end to a lower position.
      • That new position is far too low for the steering rack location of any 1979-93 Mustang, and radically changes the steering geometry.
      • It is impossible to correct the geometry with a bumpsteer kit because the outer tie-rod end needs to be raised so much that it would have to occupy the same physical space as the steering arm.

    • Stock Fox chassis k-member, or an aftermarket k-member that retains the stock front control arm pivot point vertical location, should use a 1994-95 spindle. Doing so will prevent insurmountable bumpsteer problems.

  5. #25
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    I’m pretty well read on the SN95 spindles. I ran the 96+ spindles on my stock k-member car but I also ran a MM taper style bump steer kit. When I installed the MM k-member I upgraded to the through bolt desing bump steer kit so I could get more aggressive with the setup and get the car low.

    I would talk with AJE and ask them which one to run based on their k-member geometry with Fox LCA’s. They should know the answer being they designed and built it.

  6. #26
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    Ironically I just went out and saw this posted on another website. Hopefully the 2012 k member is the same as the new one. It should be since it as well is “universal”:

    “Ok, I just got off the phone with AJE, and since their k-member is a universal one, the rack location has already been dropped to allow use of 96+ spindles. So anyone else out there that is running an AJE that was wondering the same thing, here ya go!”

  7. #27
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    Good News! On my lunch I was able to run up to the Pull A Part and pull the axles, backing plates, brackets, calipers and the special u-bolt bracket setup on one of the 98 V6 Mustangs. With coupon I got everything for $109 Now the only bad is the brake lines were gimped up and the banjo bolts were stuck. I didn't have enough time to fight with them so I am hoping I can buy new. Also got a junkyard pulling from a 2001 Mustang GT the spindles and calipers for $100. Figure I will try the 2001 setup first and hope for the best.

  8. #28
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    I think the '01 spindles will be fine. If I remember correctly you can get a good seal kit or what they call a repair kit for the front calipers and the rear calipers for $5 or so and just replace the rubber parts on the calipers yourself as long as the pistons are in good shape. I only say this because parts that sit typically will not work or leak or work for a short period of time. Another option would be to replace the front calipers with reman units and rebuild the rear calipers. Now if you want to go all out then you can get new front calipers for around $32 each and the rears for $41 each at the local parts stores if they will match Rock Auto.

    A few choices but I would not use the calipers out of the salvage yard as is. Too much risk here not only to you but potentially someone else and their car.

  9. #29
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    Totally agree Aero. I will at least change the rubber parts out. The rear calipers looked good. When I get the 2001 Parts I will find out about that. The junkyard guy told me the V6 had a single piston and the GT had the dual piston brakes. So I made sure to get them from a GT. The Mach 1 rack came in and it looks to be in excellent shape. Surprised they left the inner and outer tie rods on. I may see about just cutting those down to size. Getting stock Fox control arms for $25 and will be putting in the SN95 ball joints with Prothane bushings. Hopefully this will all work together. One other thing though, planning to my stock TC coil springs....wonder which strut will be best? Sn95 maybe?

  10. #30
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    Guy at the yard needs to check his part numbers. ‘99 V6 or GT have the same brakes all the way around the car. Look up the calipers online and they are the same.

    Are you going run a tubular Fox AJE LCA or a stock stamped Fox LCA?

    Okay, reread your post and your are going to run the stock Fox LCA. I have run them with urethane bushings and I tore the front end back down and replaced them with stock style rubber bushings. The ride was so harsh it was like every crack in the road felt like a small speed bump. I think some of the guys here have had similar experiences.

    If you are going to lower the car more than two inches use Fox struts. If stock ride height or a mild drop (less than two inches) then SN95.
    Last edited by Aerocoupe; 02-10-2018 at 08:25 AM.

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