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Thread: vibrating front brakes on 88 Turbo Coupe

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Jenks, OK
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    Get quality brake pads and bed them in after installation. If the calipers are original I would replace them with some remanufactured ones. The front brake lines are rubber and if they are original I would put new ones on as the ID can close up because of swelling. You can go back rubber or opt for Braided SS. If you find that the front brake lines are suspect then the rear lines (one on each caliper and one where the hard line from the body goes to the rear end) should also be replaced. That is a good start but the real upgrade would be to ditch the Teeves (if the car still has it) and go to a 93 Cobra booster and master cylinder. All of this is just my opinion so approach it how best fits your needs.

  2. #12
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    Dec 2012
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    Humboldt Az
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    Get quality brake pads and bed them in after installation. If the calipers are original I would replace them with some remanufactured ones. The front brake lines are rubber and if they are original I would put new ones on as the ID can close up because of swelling. You can go back rubber or opt for Braided SS. If you find that the front brake lines are suspect then the rear lines (one on each caliper and one where the hard line from the body goes to the rear end) should also be replaced. That is a good start but the real upgrade would be to ditch the Teeves (if the car still has it) and go to a 93 Cobra booster and master cylinder. All of this is just my opinion so approach it how best fits your needs.
    Thank you again Aerocoupe....will check these things out.
    Ron
    Speed is just a question of MONEY How fast can you go? (M. M.)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Gap Mills WV 24941
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    another thing to look at closer is the line to the caliper.
    where the rubber meets the crimp.

    if you were a tiny spec you would see the rubber on the inside of the line becoming worn and the interior perimeter of the hose is sorta "cut".

    over time this rubber hanging down in the fluid is in the way of the fluid returning back to the master.

    the interior rubber line becomes a check valve so to speak.
    the user pushed on the pedal and fluid travels out to the caliper.
    you let off the pedal but the fluid is not fully returning back keeping the caliper partially engaged.

    the heat will warp the rotor,,
    you replace the rotor/bearings and notice if "feels" better but in short time the rotor is warped again. then you start thinking things like "cheap china steel" ect,,

    then you change the hose to the caliper and suddenly your rotor lasts longer!


    i personally have noticed this problem is more apparent on the front passanger side,, not sure why.

    what i do know is the front driver is the only caliper that does **NOT** pass through the prop valve !!

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