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Thread: Leaking coolant but from where?

  1. #11
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    My car only has 68K miles on it so I wouldn't think I'd need to worry about the timing chain yet. The original water pump was replaced with a Motorcraft pump about 2-1/2 years ago so I'd expect it to be ok too. I agree that dropping the oil pan would be better than cutting the exposed part of the gasket out and replacing it with a separate piece. That sounds like a leak waiting to happen. I'm guessing I would need to lift the engine off the motor mounts to get enough clearance to remove the oil pan? Is this possible with a floor jack? If so, where would the lift point be?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bird of Prey View Post
    My car only has 68K miles on it so I wouldn't think I'd need to worry about the timing chain yet. The original water pump was replaced with a Motorcraft pump about 2-1/2 years ago so I'd expect it to be ok too. I agree that dropping the oil pan would be better than cutting the exposed part of the gasket out and replacing it with a separate piece. That sounds like a leak waiting to happen. I'm guessing I would need to lift the engine off the motor mounts to get enough clearance to remove the oil pan? Is this possible with a floor jack? If so, where would the lift point be?
    I've never understood why it's thought replacing just the end sections was bad... The lip seals that are separate from gasket are just as likely if not moreso to leak...

    Believe me, if you ever tried to pull the oil pan on one of these cars with engine installed, you'll gladly cut the gasket... You'll double, maybe triple time to do the work... Properly cleaned and sealed with RTV, it won't leak...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed << New 49th Birthday Picture

    1972 Comet GT - 306 C4

  3. #13
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    Don't need to remove the pan, just drop it. If you have the reinforced one.....it can be a pain to cut. The last time I did this job....I loosened the pan only removing half of them from the front and let it hang. I didn't want to cut the nearly new pan gasket.

    John

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Don't need to remove the pan, just drop it. If you have the reinforced one.....it can be a pain to cut. The last time I did this job....I loosened the pan only removing half of them from the front and let it hang. I didn't want to cut the nearly new pan gasket.

    John
    ^^^^This X2. Did the same thing.

    -Kyle
    1986 Ford Thunderchicken, 5.0 AOD w/ Shift kit, 352,XXX miles. 1-Family owned. Original engine+trans.
    8.8 Disc Rear w/ 3.73 Posi. CHE Control Arms. '04 Cobra brakes all around. 2000 Cobra R wheels. Tubular front LCA's. MM Steering Shaft. Unlocked Speedo, Lowering springs, Eibach sway bars front and rear. Ram air intake.

  5. #15
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    I agree. I did a water pump and gasket swap a couple of months ago. I snipped the center piece of the gasket and installed the replacement, no leaks. Made the job way easier as well.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,TMoss GT-40 intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,70mm t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster 40's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels,Mass Air, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  6. #16
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    Glad to hear others have had success without having to remove the oil pan! Thanks for all the feedback!

  7. #17
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    What's the end of this story? How did it turn out?
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,TMoss GT-40 intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,70mm t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster 40's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels,Mass Air, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

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