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Thread: Leaking coolant but from where?

  1. #11
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    My car only has 68K miles on it so I wouldn't think I'd need to worry about the timing chain yet. The original water pump was replaced with a Motorcraft pump about 2-1/2 years ago so I'd expect it to be ok too. I agree that dropping the oil pan would be better than cutting the exposed part of the gasket out and replacing it with a separate piece. That sounds like a leak waiting to happen. I'm guessing I would need to lift the engine off the motor mounts to get enough clearance to remove the oil pan? Is this possible with a floor jack? If so, where would the lift point be?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bird of Prey View Post
    My car only has 68K miles on it so I wouldn't think I'd need to worry about the timing chain yet. The original water pump was replaced with a Motorcraft pump about 2-1/2 years ago so I'd expect it to be ok too. I agree that dropping the oil pan would be better than cutting the exposed part of the gasket out and replacing it with a separate piece. That sounds like a leak waiting to happen. I'm guessing I would need to lift the engine off the motor mounts to get enough clearance to remove the oil pan? Is this possible with a floor jack? If so, where would the lift point be?
    I've never understood why it's thought replacing just the end sections was bad... The lip seals that are separate from gasket are just as likely if not moreso to leak...

    Believe me, if you ever tried to pull the oil pan on one of these cars with engine installed, you'll gladly cut the gasket... You'll double, maybe triple time to do the work... Properly cleaned and sealed with RTV, it won't leak...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed << New 49th Birthday Picture

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  3. #13
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    Don't need to remove the pan, just drop it. If you have the reinforced one.....it can be a pain to cut. The last time I did this job....I loosened the pan only removing half of them from the front and let it hang. I didn't want to cut the nearly new pan gasket.

    John

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skunk View Post
    Don't need to remove the pan, just drop it. If you have the reinforced one.....it can be a pain to cut. The last time I did this job....I loosened the pan only removing half of them from the front and let it hang. I didn't want to cut the nearly new pan gasket.

    John
    ^^^^This X2. Did the same thing.

    -Kyle
    1986 Ford Thunderchicken, 5.0 AOD w/ Shift kit, 354,XXX miles. 1-Family owned. Original engine+trans.
    8.8 Disc Rear w/ 3.73 Posi. CHE Control Arms. '04 Cobra brakes all around. 2000 Cobra R wheels. Tubular front LCA's. MM Steering Shaft. Unlocked Speedo, Lowering springs, Eibach sway bars front and rear. Ram air intake.

  5. #15
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    I agree. I did a water pump and gasket swap a couple of months ago. I snipped the center piece of the gasket and installed the replacement, no leaks. Made the job way easier as well.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  6. #16
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    Glad to hear others have had success without having to remove the oil pan! Thanks for all the feedback!

  7. #17
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    What's the end of this story? How did it turn out?
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  8. #18
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    Nothing to report yet. Between work and holiday demands I haven't had much time to devote to the car not to mention we received a light dusting of snow last week that was met with a triple dose of salt on the roads killing some of my urgency to get this fixed. The car is garage kept so I'm not at the mercy of the elements and expect to have some time available closer to Christmas to work on it.

  9. #19
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    Thanks for the update. Don't forget to keep the reports coming as work happens.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  10. #20
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    I'm finally getting back to work on this coolant leak issue. I removed the fan and shroud and the water pump pulley and can see coolant resting on the top of the passenger side of the timing chain cover. I picked up a Powerbuilt cooling system pressure testing kit on loan from my local Advance Auto Parts yesterday. Unfortunately none of the adapters in this kit fit the radiator neck of my car. I'm a little surprised by this as I thought a 5.0L powered Fox body is far from exotic. Anyway, what kit have you guys used to diagnose coolant leaks on your cars?

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