Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 12 of 12

Thread: 7.5 trac lock question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    East Coast Virginia
    Posts
    10,170
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity View Post
    We are already 5 lug swapped on Mason's 88bird and rear disc with upgraded front disc

    not sure what motor is in the stang we are talking about but,, the cover tag says 3 73 and both rear wheels off the ground turn one the other turns the same direction... and its a 7.5.

    I am going to likely talk him out of it though,, he has some dcent motor mods and likley just enough to break the rear when he plays around.

    i can imagine he might enjoy 3 73 a little too much and break it... i can also respect the advice,, i knew 8.8 would be better but they are not easy to find around here.


    he lives in charlottsville va so its not like i can help unless he comes over here to home which is where the work would be done.

    thanks!
    For '87 only factory engines were the NA 2.3L half motor & 5.0...

    If it's a 4 banger the T-5 transmission is also weak and would require all the associated 5.0 clutch components, bell housing, flywheel etc... Plus the AOD won't fit a 2.3...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed

    1972 Comet GT - 306 C4

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Utah.
    Posts
    9,023
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    A bunch of the 3.73 and 4.10 gears were traction lock. I bought two 3.73 rears from 4 banger mustang and one from a 1984 turbo diesel mark7 and they were all locking diffs. Never did use them.

    The weak point of the 7.5 is in the traction lock assembly, which you also can't really get rebuild kits for either. In my opinion an open diff is fine unless you wanna hit the track and I've seen cars go low 12's and high 11's on them no problem. But they seem to be like t-5's. Some blow apart treated like glass, others take a beating.

    Out of all my cars (15 now) and probably over 500k miles that I've personally put on already high mile cars, all had the 7.5 and ive never broke any of them. Even when I had my 87 with a sn-95 t-5. I put six sets of motor mounts in it in about a year of driving. With a open 2.73, 275/60r15's (28" tall almost 11"wide) and a 3.35 1st gear, I would slam the car in gear and dump the clutch at wot at 25mph. The car would either dead hook or smoke a tire until I shifted.

    The 7.5 rear is way stronger then people give em credit for. Its almost always the locking diffs that come apart and eat everything else.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •