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Thread: 351W (427W) w/Canton oil pan is hitting steering rack

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  1. #1
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    Default 351W (427W) w/Canton oil pan is hitting steering rack

    Just wondering if anybody who's done a 351W swap has run into this issue and how they solved it. I thought the Canton was a stock pan with the "T" welded onto the rear sump area. I'm using the Chuck mounts that I bought years ago, finally they're being put into service Looks like I could shim it with maybe 1/8" thick washers?
    11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

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    You could do that, or maybe some offset steering rack bushings.
    It's Gumby's fault.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbird232ci View Post
    You could do that, or maybe some offset steering rack bushings.
    Car is already lowered, so I'm not too fond of lowering the rack. I read of someone putting rubber belting between the mount and k-frame to raise it up some, I need to see how much can be gained doing that. At least hood clearance doesn't appear to be an issue with greater than 1/2" there now.
    11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

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    Could you just space the engine mounts away from the frame to get some clearance? I don't see why it wouldn't work.

    Is the 427 going to be NA or is the KB getting bolted to it?
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    Could you just space the engine mounts away from the frame to get some clearance? I don't see why it wouldn't work.

    Is the 427 going to be NA or is the KB getting bolted to it?
    No KB, this engine should make 600 flywheel N/A.

    Yeah, somebody recommended using this stuff to shim up the mount, though I could just weld on some sheet metal as well.

    Today was really annoying - I hadn't been able to bolt up the driver's side mount - turns out I had to grind away some material in the middle of the mount to clear a boss on the block. I got that done, then the damned lower part is hitting the steering rack - geez!

    boss_notch.jpg

    I'll have to separate the mount cuz I'm not unbolting the top part again! More grinding tomorrow.

    leg hitting steering.jpg

    I'm so tired and there's more possible issues just waiting for me to discover them.
    11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

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    So I used the Maximum Motorsports rack bushings and lowered my rack due to the Canton road racing 7 quart pan hitting the rack on the 351W my Bird and my car is in the weeds. You raise the motor and it might find the hood.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...hings-C86.aspx

    I also have a bumpsteer kit on the car so....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerocoupe View Post
    So I used the Maximum Motorsports rack bushings and lowered my rack due to the Canton road racing 7 quart pan hitting the rack on the 351W my Bird and my car is in the weeds. You raise the motor and it might find the hood.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...hings-C86.aspx

    I also have a bumpsteer kit on the car so....
    Interesting. I'd definitely need a bumpsteer kit. Funny, at the link you posted, it highly recommends against using offset bushings on the rack.

    It seems that if I stick ~1/4" PVC pieces under the mounts, it clears the rack and I still end up with 1/2" above the elbow.

    Unfortunately, I'm still dealing with the inaccuracies of these mounts - drilling out holes, twisting this and that, lifting and dropping the engine, yanking it this way and that. My ribs are ridiculously sore from hanging over the fender. I've wasted 6 hours fighting with these damned mounts, knowing that there's a dozen more issues I have to deal with before I can start the engine. Can't imagine anything I'd rather be doing to mutilate my 55+ year old body.

    2017-09-12 18.19.15.jpg
    Last edited by Cougar5.0; 09-12-2017 at 07:07 PM.
    11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

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    Should have used a Fox Mustang K member and mounts at this point....
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    Should have used a Fox Mustang K member and mounts at this point....
    What is the benefit to using a Fox Mustang K-member?
    11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cougar5.0 View Post
    What is the benefit to using a Fox Mustang K-member?
    From what I've read there is more clearance with the Mustang style mounts between the pan and rack when using a 351W block.

    Although using a non stock pan could throw that out the window. When I had my Mark VII (it used fox Mustang style mounts) the engine sat a bit higher off the K member than my Thunderbird.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

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