Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 34 of 34

Thread: electronic instrumentation recalibration

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    1,724
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)

    Default

    In any case, it's machined into the output shaft, so there is no way to correct it with a gear change. 23 is as far as available gears go, and the math tells me I need 24. I could reduce my error with a 23, but I'm told they don't hold up.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Henderson, NV
    Posts
    111
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Ran into a problem when I rebuilt my dash using Autometer gauges. Couldn't get my speedometer to read right. Went through the calibration procedure at least a dozen times. Replaced the VSS and used a Steeda 23T gear. Ran out of patience. Finally ended up installing the Autometer GPS for the speedometer- end of problem.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Utah.
    Posts
    9,054
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    I varried my speedo by 11% by getting real tires. 275/60/r15. Easy overdrive adder mod.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    10,416
    Feedback Score
    17 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheFoeYouKnow View Post
    In any case, it's machined into the output shaft, so there is no way to correct it with a gear change. 23 is as far as available gears go, and the math tells me I need 24. I could reduce my error with a 23, but I'm told they don't hold up.
    My AOD has the 8 tooth output shaft. I've been running a 23 tooth driven gear for years without issue (the black one Late Model Restoration sells). I plan on swapping a 21 tooth back in and running the FRPP speedometer correction box at some point, but it hasn't been high on my list of things to do as of yet.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •