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Thread: "F" 250 as the ultimate tow rig! Can it be?

  1. #21
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    How are the highway Roma and mpg? Cool setup so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    How are the highway Roma and mpg? Cool setup so far.
    Haystack, assuming Roma is road manners? Quite well! Rides very smooth after a new set of shocks and 55lbsof air in the tires. Mileage.....not quite sure. I have been chasing a weird CEL since getting it running. I'm beginning to think that I may be too far out of the tune on the factory computer. I cannot find a single thing wrong with any sensor. Engine codes change every time. First the tps, then the IAC, then the ECT. It runs smooth and well but always smells rich. I'm gonna tear the upper intake off this weekend and maybe find something in the vacuum lines, like holes. That the only other way I can explain this issue. Then it will be time to hit the open road. It cruises well at 70 MPH turning 1900 RPM and sounding smooth and quiet. I'm assuming that may be the sweet spot, but I bet it's more likely 62-67 MPH for mileage. I have owned 3 of these trucks and all had the best mileage including the diesel at that speed range. We will have to see.

  5. #25
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    Found the intake manifold gasket settled and compressed more than I thought it would. I retrocede all bolts and viola. Vacuum leak, found and conquered, at the exact same time. Adjusted timing, TPS and idle quality. Found it needed quite a bit more fuel and obliged with 50 lbs of fuel pressure on the 19# injectors. I think its time to throw the 24# back at her again and see what happens.

    Towed my racer to the Drags in Barona California and its up some serious grades of 4-6% or more at a couple points. The 351W just does not have the beans I thought it would. It needs to be over 2500 RPM to really gain some steam. I was underwhelmed actually which just lit a fire under my a$$ to finish up the 393W and get it swapped in with a conversion to MAF. I have a computer and MAF from a 1993 Cobra that would work well here and should add quite a bit of adjustability to the equation.

    Thoughts?

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    Trying to run a 351W on 19lb injectors is like feeding a quarter horse Cheerios...yeah its got oats but not what the horse needs. I would say that the truck needs to go to a tuner and put it on a dyno with a wide band O2. I only say this as my little 306 ran out of steam on 24 lb/hr injectors at about the 280ish rwhp / 290ish ftlb mark on a Mustang Dyno. Popped in the 42 lb/hr injectors with a slight retune and it hit 300ish rwhp / 320ish ftlb and the idle was 100% better as I was not up on 100% duty of the injectors.

  7. #27
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    19's are just a no go on this thing. I had to run the fuel pressure close to 85#s to get it to run correctly. I have a set of 24#, but I'm wondering if that is futile. May need more! A tune would be great, but I do not have that kind of cash at this point. Looks like for a truck it costs quite a bit more than a car. I was quoted $750 from JBA and that includes Dyno time. Not really what I'm looking for. I wonder if 24# and mass air might correct the issue. Should I start looking for a set of 30's? Butt Dyno is all I can afford at this point.

  8. #28
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    BTW, I noticed that with my fuel press gauge installed on the schrader it was jumping around and that when the key was turned off, the fuel press went immediately to 0. I thought the rail maintained pressure. Not sure if the jumping on the gauge is the bank to bank vs the SFI I am used to. That is 4 injectors firing at once and not 1.

  9. #29
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    What fuel pump do you have? I would call Pro-M and talk to them about a calibrated MAF. They can help you with injector sizing. That will avoid a tune but in the long run that is what you need. I would go with an SCT tuner as they are usually $500 for the chip and initial tune.

    Sell your 19's and matching MAF. Sell the Cobra ECU, MAF, and 24's. That should get you close to paying for the Pro-M MAF. Whatever size injector you need you should be able to source used online.

  10. #30
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    My stock fuel pump had a check valve and held pressure, even when the pump was only pushing 12psi. The new pump didn't and immediately went to 0 when the car was shut off.

    I think the newer pumps just don't use them.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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