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Thread: My GTbird build

  1. #21
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    Every 302 I have built the past 25 years has gotten a HV oil pump and a ARP shaft just because. No rhyme or reason other than every subject I have read about SBF oiling systems have said to use one.

    I got the spring kit rated for .540 lift since Im using a TFS st1 cam with .512 lift. Was good to know the spring actually came in a few pounds stronger at height than advertised.
    Brian R.
    88 2.3t Ranger
    83 TC gt40p motor,Vortech,TFS1 cam,long tubes,MS PnP,T5,8.8,17x9 Cobra 17s

  2. #22
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    Unless you are using increased bearing clearances, a HV pump does nothing but waste HP...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed

    1972 Comet GT - 306 C4

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboCoupe50 View Post
    Unless you are using increased bearing clearances, a HV pump does nothing but waste HP...
    Im cool with giving up 2hp for the insurance on a daily driver.
    Brian R.
    88 2.3t Ranger
    83 TC gt40p motor,Vortech,TFS1 cam,long tubes,MS PnP,T5,8.8,17x9 Cobra 17s

  4. #24
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    Actually instead of me sounding like a ass I will give my explanation.

    The HV pump will only provide the extra volume if the engine needs it. Its all dependent on bearing clearances. As bearings wear and clearances open up that's when a HV pump earns it keep. I didn't turn my crank on this rebuild as all bottom end clearances checked out ok but at the high end of good. Obviously these clearances aint getting any tighter after I put about 600 miles a week on this motor so this is my insurance I will get a long life span on this rebuild. As clearances open up I will still have the volume there for good pressure even with thin oils on a hot motor sitting at idle {think lots of Detroit expressway driving}.

    The gear failure everybody talks about was a much bigger problem back when 99.9% of Ford cams were cast iron with cast iron distributor gears. Yes they would fail with HV and HP pumps. After Ford switched to steel roller cams and steel gears it is much less of a problem now as these parts are much stronger. In fact I have only seen distributor roll pin failures and twisted shafts myself on 5.0 motors with roller cams. I have yet to see a gear failure.

    That said... I did buy a good ARP driveshaft and I will be running a Comp Cams Poly distributor gear which are indestructible.
    Brian R.
    88 2.3t Ranger
    83 TC gt40p motor,Vortech,TFS1 cam,long tubes,MS PnP,T5,8.8,17x9 Cobra 17s

  5. #25
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    I saw a back to back dyno run HV vs standard, it was a 12hp loss on a 300rwhp motor.

    Extra insurance won't hurt anything, I was just curious. I am not sure what a stock spec oil pressure should be, but if I remember correctly the dash light comes on at 6psi. I checked pressure on my first 86 with about 290k miles on it and it was pushing 12psi if I remember correctly, hot at idle. I don't think its the pressure loss that eats things up as much as flow, but hey, I don't know anything.

    Sorry, wasn't trying to highjack the thread, I was just curious.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  6. #26
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    Each his own, my fresh 331 has a std pump... If it is indeed a 12Hp difference, that's far more than I'd give up...

    Wasn't like new 5.0 Stangs were suffering oil problems because factory used std pumps...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed

    1972 Comet GT - 306 C4

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboCoupe50 View Post
    Wasn't like new 5.0 Stangs were suffering oil problems because factory used std pumps...
    I agree. The key word there is "new".
    Brian R.
    88 2.3t Ranger
    83 TC gt40p motor,Vortech,TFS1 cam,long tubes,MS PnP,T5,8.8,17x9 Cobra 17s

  8. #28
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    ARP oil pump driveshaft is a great piece. Definitely use it.

    The HV oil pump isn't really necessary. If you bought it use it. if you haven't purchased it just get a standard Melling oil pump. The HV pump is kind of a waste on a street driven SBF. I'm running a standard Melling in my Thunderbird without issue and have been for almost 10 years.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  9. #29
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    Wow what a weekend....

    Im done buying from Jegs. This last order from them was a complete mess and has cost me a week of downtime. I used a 94 Mustang 5.0 as "my vehicle" to look up all the parts I needed,which was all bearings and rings. The first thing I noticed when I opened the box was there was a single rod bearing and not 8. Going back to their site I see the bearing I ordered was listed as rod BEARINGS and was 15.99 so I called them and they said it needs to say "bearing set" to contain all 8 so I find another SET for 27.99 and reorder those and return the single. Next I drop the cam bearings off to machine shop for install and he calls me to tell me they are 2.3 cam bearings! Soo those get sent back and I find a set local. Now today the new rod bearing set shows up and again its a single bearing! I check the site and it clearly says its a bearing set and call Jegs and they have no explanation. Back to Jegs they go and I find a set locally.

    But here the best one. I bought a new DynaGear steel timing set off some speedshop on Ebay for $75 a few weeks ago and finally got around to installing it yesterday. Check this out..
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHwAFSxVCCk

    The hole for the pin was to big so the gear rocked on the cam.The key way slots were to big also and I swear the chain had an extra link in it.Total junk. Ran down to Orielys and grabbed a cheap off the shelf set and its good to go now.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg4965uDv_8

    So was able to install the TFS cam and put the front of the motor together. I mocked up my brackets and figured out my alt mounting.


    I also grabbed a nice factory fan shroud then mounted my overflow bottle to it and will make some brackets to mount my Spal fan inside of it.
    Last edited by deathbypsi; 05-17-2016 at 06:18 PM.
    Brian R.
    88 2.3t Ranger
    83 TC gt40p motor,Vortech,TFS1 cam,long tubes,MS PnP,T5,8.8,17x9 Cobra 17s

  10. #30
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    Been taking care of house work last few days but I have time to get intakes all ready.

    I got the air temp sensor installed into the lower to work with my Mustang wire harness.


    I also removed all the extra vacuum hard lines on the bottom of the upper intake and drilled and tapped them for 1/8th pipe plugs.

    I also picked up a cable/quadrant kit
    Brian R.
    88 2.3t Ranger
    83 TC gt40p motor,Vortech,TFS1 cam,long tubes,MS PnP,T5,8.8,17x9 Cobra 17s

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