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Thread: 1984 Thunderbird 5.0, motor shaking at idle,and slight miss??

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    Default 1984 Thunderbird 5.0, motor shaking at idle,and slight miss??

    Hey guys back at it again! Car starts up good but at a idle the motor shakes alot like somethings not right? It also has a slight miss sounds like the exhaust under the car though ... If I rev the car it revs strong no Popping or missing in the Rev? I haven't put new plug or new wires or cap and rotor, due to it not really being my car...Its my dads!! I did however wire brush all plugs and cap and rotor though! I Thinking maybe the timing might be a little off any advice? This is a cfi bird and I know there temperamental.. please help

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    Is the idle too slow?
    The 5.0L CFI for cold fast idle, uses a carburetor type fast idle cam. Before cranking you must goose the gas pedal to allow the cam to move to the fast step.
    After warmup the idle is controlled by a vacuum operated "throttle kicker". The EEC controls the vacuum with the throttle kicker solenoid.

    Always a good idea to pull codes.

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    No the idle is not too low, and the choke does stick for some reason gotta press it to get it too idle down? And shouldn't the check engine light be on if there's codes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis89 View Post
    No the idle is not too low, and the choke does stick for some reason gotta press it to get it too idle down? And shouldn't the check engine light be on if there's codes?
    There is no choke but it uses the same type mechanism to control the cold idle. The cam has 3 steps. A "vacuum pull down" should move it off the highest step.
    The electric choke heater should move it off the other 2 steps.
    Your car has no check engine light. That came in later years.

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    Ok so how do I go about pulling codes out of this car?

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    ??

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    I've only owned 86-87 cars, but I think 84 still uses the same procedure.
    http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

    Basically you only need a paperclip and test light or analong volt meter.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    I've only owned 86-87 cars, but I think 84 still uses the same procedure.
    http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

    Basically you only need a paperclip and test light or analong volt meter.
    Correct, its helpful to have someone jot down the number of blinks, while the you don't take your eyes off the lights as they flash. Its primitive blinking lights to give the code numbers.








    1983 FORD THUNDERBIRD HERITAGE 5.0
    2008 SAAB 9-7X AERO 6.0 (LS2) 1 0f 554 Made
    2011 FORD FLEX SEL Family Hauler

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    I usually just record it as a video on my cell phone. Then ya can take it inside and review it as many times as possible instead of bending over the side of a car in the cold.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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    I'm a little confused? Where do I put the paper clip in at top right?

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