Page 12 of 12 FirstFirst ... 289101112
Results 111 to 120 of 120

Thread: 84 XR-7 Project

  1. #111
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Lehighton, PA
    Posts
    346
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Wow...I've been looking for that part for about two months. They must have JUST released it. The only place I could find it was eBay, used for about triple the cost. I wanted to go that route but like I said I couldn't find a reasonable used or alternative part. Thanks for the find! It really made no sense to me how they could sell the hose but not the fitting on the other end. Just like it doesn't really make sense to me why Ford used a banjo bolt at that location. Oh well, problem solved!

    And I have a TC rear that I had to put the New Edge rotors and calipers on to go 5 lug. The TC brake hoses on the diff housing work. So with the Mustang rear hose, I'll just need to whip up 2 short pieces of line to finish off the rear.

    I haven't decided how I'm going to run the line to the back of the car just yet. My SFC took away any easy pathway for any lines/cables to run the length of the car. The K-member also got rid of the cross over. So I might run the rear line down the driver side through the drive shaft tunnel.

  2. #112
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jenks, OK
    Posts
    2,234
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    Look at how the rear and right front brake line is run on an 86-93 Fox Mustangs along the top of the firewall. I went to a salvage yard and got them back in the day but you can now get them here:

    https://sstubes.com/products-ford-ca...6!-#!25!#-!316

  3. #113
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Lehighton, PA
    Posts
    346
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    This will be the last update of this thread. Once I get settled and can work on the car again, if ever, I'll begin a new one.

    As of Sunday Oct. 08, '17, the move will become official. It's been pushed back a bit, for me anyway. I was supposed to go first, secure a place to live, then my wife would come down shortly after. My wife, however landed a job immediately and has been living/working since mid-July in South Carolina. I stayed behind to finish some things.

    One of those things was my Cougar. Not 'finished' but mobile. I haven't worked on it much since my last update. Trying to save money and get other loose ends tied up put a stop to most of the progress. It's finally off the rotisserie and on all four wheels. Two very major issues became apparent immediately.

    First:



    It sits like a monster truck! I have Eibach Mustang convertable springs installed. The front sits higher than with the 2.3T installed. The rear sits a good 2 maybe 3 inches higher than before, and that's with the MM rear lowers adjusted as low as possible, with a lot of extra weight in the trunk. The rear will sit higher in street trim. I'm confused about the rear. The tires used to tuck a bit with the stock lowers. The front sits way high as well, but I think that is caused by something else.

    I give you the second major issue:



    The fenders are just sitting on the car, not bolted, no shims. Even if there were shims, that intake would still be a good 2 inches too high. I've looked at a lot of 4v Fox swaps and no other fox car requires a cowl hood to fit this engine. I don't know if it's because of the solid mounts I bought(which were stupid cheap) or the k-member. Either way, I have 1/2" spacers under the main k-member mounting pads just to get it to bolt to my car. I won't feel comfortable with 2 1/2" spacers up front and 2" on the rear pads just to get the hood to fit. Also the X-pipe points into the ground behind the transmission. That tells me the engine is super high. There's no adjustment in the X-pipe either as only 1 side has a ball-socket joint, the other is a flange and that removes any adjustment. Also when I bounce the car, the struts hit their upper stops, so another indication something isn't right.

    I'm not too worried about it though...as I don't know when I'll be able to get the car down south and start making progress again. Plus I'm leaning towards a Coyote swap now. This engine will probably make it into my Lincoln, or another Mark if I find one down south.

    Last pic:



    Just threw on the header and TC bumper, mostly to show my dad that the bumper is usable as he keeps insisting that it's junk and I need a new one.


    So that's it for this leg of the project. Thanks to all who helped getting me to this point. I hope things work out for the best and I can get back to wrenching on this bad boy sooner than later. When the time comes, a new project thread will be started.

  4. #114
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Monona, Iowa
    Posts
    442
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Set a straight edge or pull a string across the bottom of the hood and measure then do the same on the fenders. With the bump up in the center of the hood it might be ok.

    Good to see it on its wheels.

  5. #115
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,090
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)

    Default

    Well awesome progress but I agree...it is sitting quite high. And the hood clearance is a tough one...betting that spacing out the K-member would probably do it. Of course there's always a cowl hood but I can understand why you'd want to keep the current hood.

    As always, your contributions are appreciated and that's gonna be a bad-ass Cat when it's done. Continued luck with life's journey.

  6. #116
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Monona, Iowa
    Posts
    442
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    B59FC578-522E-45E6-BFDD-503F51B279F2.jpg

    Here is the view across my fenders. Supercharger pulley sticks up and so does the strut tower brace. Have an 87-88 hood on and I have enough clearance to get my fingers between the tightest spots. Using factory ford motor mounts for 2003 mustang and have 5/8 spacer between k member and body. I will not be able to use a hood mat.

  7. #117
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    8
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    You guys did a great job on your projects. I wonder if I can do the same on my car. Maybe I would be needing reliant finishing systems help.

  8. #118
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Gap Mills WV 24941
    Posts
    14,170
    Feedback Score
    15 (100%)

    Default

    Id like to find out more about this particular tunnel bracket.

    I am adding a "full length" center console to an 87coug & converting to aod floor shift.

    I dont have this bracket on my tunnel but there are 4 detents in the tunnel that tell me the jig is there for all cars to "option in" this item.

    Does your full length console have a bracket that attaches to this mounting pad?

    my full length console does not,, marked as an "E6" pn.

    I am using erics info to cut a hole in the floor and am still going at it kinda slow.

    let me know please,,

    this pad i point to coupled with the slotted hole atop the tunnel brace certer under the seats allows my center console to "tell" me where it wants to be.
    I am skeptical that i really need to cut my hole in the floor that large for an aod shifter,,, the big plus sign tunnel opening seems to be universal to either working with a aod or std drive.

    no i dont have the elevation change pan that is added atop your tunnel, still gotta figure that part out.

    im at 304 772 3411 if you have any exact measurements you want to share.
    the instructions on coolcats do not specify exactly what precise points were used as reference start points to een begin cutting this hole i need to do.


    more than nice work!!! you might find our simplified subframe connector fab work a tad easier which in or rendidtion likely serves the same pruposes. We avoided cutting out the floor, though i see you did what the doctor did and it looks really good!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #119
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Utah.
    Posts
    9,114
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    My 86 had that there, and it was a column shift non console car. Same with my 87 bird.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  10. #120
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Gap Mills WV 24941
    Posts
    14,170
    Feedback Score
    15 (100%)

    Default

    i just found a drawing of it in the body section of the shop manuals.
    part a of one question is answered, the console to tunnel bracket holes are infact "centered" and not favoring forward or Aft directions.
    I will have to fabricate this bracket. its apparently removeable by 4 phiillups screws.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •