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Thread: 84 XR-7 Project

  1. #71
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    The Mark VII add-on springs WILL work on your hinges. That's what I'm running on mine and they work fantastically well. But I will say that the hood doesn't go up as high as if there were a prop rod or the 1987-88 hinges. Otherwise, perfect solution.

  2. #72
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    Thanks. I will keep that in mind if I can't find a set of hinges.

  3. #73
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    Been plugging away. Not looking good for my goal of June 1st. Just way to much to do and the weather hasn't helped. I'm not too pleased with my dad at the moment. I've been saying we needed to get a rotisserie for well over a year, closer to two probably. He's also helping his brother with his '70 Olds 4-4-2. He dropped the bomb last weekend that my car will be going up on the rotisserie first, then the Olds. We're at 2 and a half months....and now he wants to put it up. Yeah well. I can finish the floor and gussets a lot easier.

    I played around with the new edge seats. I've read it a million times...they fit with changing the seat tracks. Sure...except when I do it right? Here's the passenger side bolted in.



    Apparently...power lower buckets don't bolt to manual seat tracks. This goes for Fox Mustang's as well, as I have a set of manual Fox seats. So I have to figure something out there. I want to keep power, but would have sacrificed it for ease of installation. I don't want to chance buying a power seat track from eBay only to find it won't fit either, or even worse, the mechanisms are shot. I have a plan to get the New Edge seat in. Just have to find the time.

    More pressing is figuring out how to mount the steering column. Which is going to involve hacking the New Edge dash frame, my dash frame, and probably the dash itself.

    Next I have to figure out the wiring. I have every single wire removed from the donor, as seen here.



    Most of that is getting removed. I don't need the airbag stuff, I don't have time to keep the ABS/TC stuff, and a lot of the emission stuff is getting axed. Essential items are the engine/trans wiring (duh), the FPDM (fuel pump driver module, this is a returnless system), fuse box, and interior fuse box. I have to lay the new wiring out and go through both EVTM's that I have to merge the 99 and 84 harnesses...yay.

    On a positive note, I am about to finish final assembly of the engine. I have a few more gaskets to buy and two more things to powder coat. Tonight, I finished the valve covers. I did the coil covers about a week ago to test the color and baking procedure. They came out great, except for a few spots no one will ever see. I blame the cheap gun my friend let me use. ProTip - if powder coating semi-professionally or trying to become a pro....spend the money for a really good gun.

    Pics!










    This weekend, hopefully I'll be able to finish the engine, get the car on the rotisserie, move the engine to the lower garage to mate it with the trans, mount the pair on a cart and do a test fit. I need to find time to yank the starter off the donor too. Then I'll be able to get the oil system primed and perhaps even get the engine fired on the floor. I'll video that, most definitely.

  4. #74
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    That's just...crazy. Trying to hit the deadline, I mean--everything else is frickin' awesome. Having the ability to do so many things is a huge asset, although I'm sure it's becoming a burden also. But yeah, outstanding work.

    So are there not extra holes in the bottom of the seat frames to allow the manual track to bolt up? How about drilling holes in the track to fit the existing seat frame holes? I ran into none of this when I bolted the SN95 seats to the stock Cougar power seat tracks, that's why I'm asking.

  5. #75
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    The manual seat buckets are different from the power buckets. The manual buckets and tracks are flat, or the holes are all on the same plane. The power bucket holes are on different levels and the bucket frame has a recess for the height mechanism. I'll have to get a few pictures to show the differences. All my excitement for having 99 Cobra seats in my car turned to frustration. Like I said, a million times, just switch seat tracks. It won't be that difficult to mount the new seat, but time consuming. Two new holes for the rear mounts, and cut the front seat support with studs out of the donor and weld it to my seat support. Again, a picture will better illustrate what I mean.

  6. #76
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    So here are a few pictures showing the issue with the seat bolting to the track.



    The top is bolted flush, the bottom is a good inch, inch and a half off.



    I could take that space up with washer or a custom made spacer, but anyone who has done this swap will tell you that the seat mounts high after swapping tracks. The passenger side feels high, but I honestly don't have anything in the car to compare it to. I may try to put a power passenger track in down the road. I think going from manual SN95 seat to power Fox track might be an easier conversion. For now, my wife can feel like a big person. I'm 6' tall, not the tallest person by any means, but the way I sit, I'd have the wheel in my crotch and my head brushing the headliner if the seat sat any higher than factory. I want to retain the power so I can adjust the height.



    The other issue is the slide handle interferes with the power panel on the seat. More of a none issue as, if I decided to use my manual track, the new seat covers would allow me to delete the panel.

    I think that'll be the goal for this weekend. Try to get the engine together and mated to the TR3650, test fit the K-member/steering rack+shaft, and get the column mocked up so I can center the seat and get the new mounts in place.

  7. #77
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    Interesting. I did not experience that at all...the passenger seat in the convertible has a manual seat track. I did remove the joystick control from the front of the seat when the seats got recovered. But I had no problem bolting the seat to the manual track. IIRC the seats in mine are from a '95 Mustang GT. Are you using newer seat than that? It could explain things...

  8. #78
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    Everything, except the engine and transmission, is from my 99 GT donor. Everywhere I've read says unbolt the Fox tracks and bolt the SN95/New Edge seat to the Fox tracks. I haven't come across a single account of the seats needing spacers.

  9. #79
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    Took the day off of work. I had enough of their BS for the week so I decided to get some work done instead. Started out doing some powder coating. I did the first layer of my timing cover.







    Came out pretty good. It's too bad the clear top coat will cut the shine down considerably. If I had prepped the cover better, it probably would have better clarity on the flats. The upper intake will have better prep. This part will be covered with a belt and pulleys so it won't be so clearly seen. It's a chrome powder from www.powderbuythepound.com. I bought the Ford Blue Wrinkle there as well. I knew the chrome wouldn't be anywhere near the mirror shine of real chrome, so I'm not disappointed with this. It's going to give the timing cover and upper intake just a little more pop.

    Then I decided to tackle the driver seat. I can say this wasn't near as bad as I thought it was going to be. I hope my plan for the steering column goes as smoothly. Once this and the steering column are finished, the interior will be done minus the wiring. I'll dive into that once the car is on the rotisserie. I just have to finish all the welding inside and under the car before I begin the process of losing my mind dealing with wiring spaghetti, and so my dad can paint the underside.



    It hurt just a bit cutting into the brace that I had just finished welding back into place(and together, thanks to my dad for cutting it out in two pieces).









    Original mounting hole on the left. I ended up trimming a bit more out just to make sure there is enough clearance. The hole didn't make it through and was cut in half then welded shut. Hopefully the carpet won't give me any fits.



    This is where I left off tonight. My back and knees started killing me. I just have a few more pieces of sheet metal to fab up and it'll be ready to be coated internally. I put the seat in and sat in it for a bit. It feels solid and the height feels good. Sitting in it for the first time in almost a year brought back memories and hopefully will help give me motivation to push on. Some days it feels like it'll get done and others feel like it's just too much.

  10. #80
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    Just watch the back of the seat frame and make sure it does not contact the subframe. I have this problem with my seats which is keeping me from lowering them but I think my Griggs upper sub frames sit higher than yours by about 1/2" to 3/4" judging by how far they come up into the front seat mount cross member that you cut. Its on my list of things to do this summer as my buddy that welds has a normal job now so I can talk him into welding stuff for me on the weekends.

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