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Thread: Need sum imput on doing a engine swap n my TC

  1. #1
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    Default Need sum imput on doing a engine swap n my TC

    I've got a decent black tc that I like the car enough that I had robb parts off my other tbird that I wanted to fix but car was off the road do to some problems. What I need to know is using my other tbird as a donor will the swap b straight forward or a pain. Both cars r 88s one is turbo coupe 5spd the other is base sport v8 auto. I want to keep 5spd will transmission mate to a 302 after changing bellhousing flywheel clutch and pressure plate

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    You'd be better off selling the 2.3 T5 and buying a V8 T5 from a Mustang 5.0, as the 2.3 T5 has a much lower first gear, coupled with good gearing in the new car, it'll make first gear useless as tits on a boar hog, and the V8 trans will also take more power, but if you do use the 2.3 trans, you'll need a pilot bearing from a Ranger truck...you'll have to google the specifics, I've got it written down somewhere, but all my info is in one of my toolboxes out in the shop.

    If you're putting the 5.0 into the TC, there's a writeup of just this exact swap. You'll have a lot easier time since you have the donor car, and both are the same year.

    Figure on needing new engine mounts right off, as the stock ones are likely broken or not far from it. If you're just swapping the engine from one to the other, it can be done in a weekend if you have air tools and don't ass around.

    Personally, I'd wake the 5.0 up a bit with GT40 heads and an explorer intake, along with an HO cam and a Mustang EEC. If you're going mass air, you'll want an A9L, and if staying speed density, you'll want a DA1.
    If you're going to have the engine rebuilt, I'd get a set of Mustang ('87-'92) pistons, as they have valve reliefs, whereas the pistons in your existing Tbird block do NOT. What this means is with the HO slugs, you can run a cam with higher than stock lift. With the pistons you have now, you're at the lift limit with the HO cam and 1.7 rockers, otherwise, you are in the danger zone of piston to valve contact. Some here will say you can run a bigger cam with the janky pistons, but I'd damn sure putty the engine first before ever firing it up if you go that route.

    I'd suggest, if you can afford it, to get a block and heads from a '96, to early '97 Explorer/Mountaineer, or if you want P's, get a late '97 and up engine from the same. The P heads may/may not give a noticeable power increase...I have them for my combo, but am waiting on the machine shop to finish them. My combo is a stock block and rods/pistons from an '89 Stang, P heads, TFS1 cam, BBK headers and x pipe, flowbastard cat back, and am probably going to run 24 pound injectors. For the eec I've got an A9L. Car is a 5 speed, and like you, have had to swap the 2.3 trans out for a V8 version, as my car was a 4 banger as well, though mine is a Mustang, not the Turbobirdy.

    There's shit-tons of info, this swap has been done so much that a 5 year old could do it while sleeping.
    '84 Mustang, work in (sloooooooow) progress...
    '87 Stang notch
    1994 Ford F150 Flareside
    1997 Explorer V8 conversion (in progress)
    1998 Explorer 5.0
    and a couple of tractors. Ford, of course.
    FORD power, for life!

  3. #3
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    Default thanks for imput

    The donor was a daily driver until something went wrong suspect computer windshield is cracked and front end wore out also car was wrecked by previous owner and frame and body is bent n were passenger door is damage goes all the way to strut tower. So I went and bought my tc a yr ago it hasnt been wrecked but I to use gas tank and some other parts off that car just want my v8 back much easier to keep up. I'm not planning on using fuel injection due to my car just being a standard 5.0 am wanting to do a little to engine
    but money is issue right now.

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    Default changing gear

    I plan on changing rearend gear has a 8.8 373 thinking about 327 cause this will be a daily driver and don't need go with to much power maybe changing heads cam

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    Thanks I'm not going do anything just yet my tc runs and drives but had car about 2 yrs and it has left me sitting 6 times got it running every time 3 used dist.gear 1 fuel pump 1 fuel tank and pump finally got new dist.gear and had to change auxiliary gear had to replace trans didn't won't to keep a auto so I swapped for 5pd

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    If you're going to swap to a 5.0, it's pretty easy to keep it injected. You have 99% of what you need already...once you get to modding it though, you need to make sure the stuff you plan to get will work with the engine's setup..is all. Not hard at all.
    '84 Mustang, work in (sloooooooow) progress...
    '87 Stang notch
    1994 Ford F150 Flareside
    1997 Explorer V8 conversion (in progress)
    1998 Explorer 5.0
    and a couple of tractors. Ford, of course.
    FORD power, for life!

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    That's good cause I know me and something want go right and I will have 2 junk birds lol. I'm smart enough to figure it out but torn between carb or injection. Carbs r just simple to tune and easier when add upgrades.

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    I'm gonna disagree with you on the carb business. There's so many parts nowadays...hell, I've scrapped several hundred pounds of E7 heads in the last 6 months. GT40 heads are a good step up. As is Explorer intakes, and even a set of cheapo shorty headers will flow better than stock HO headers. You can nab these main parts for the cost of a decent used 4bbl carb and aluminum intake, and you've still gotta find the trans linkage (if AOD) and figure out how to cut down your fuel pressure.

    Not only that, but starts are easier, the engine will run better at different altitudes, and it takes less effort to keep it "in shape"....

    Yes, I cut my teeth on carb and points engines..there were several times I'd have to pull over, get my gauge and my dwell meter out on the side of the road, and adjust my points because the worn out distributor in my truck was always giving me fits.

    That was 1994. When I got my Escort GT in 1996, I never looked back at carbs...my lawn mower is even efi. Tech is great, indeed. LOL
    '84 Mustang, work in (sloooooooow) progress...
    '87 Stang notch
    1994 Ford F150 Flareside
    1997 Explorer V8 conversion (in progress)
    1998 Explorer 5.0
    and a couple of tractors. Ford, of course.
    FORD power, for life!

  9. #9
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    I understand but I got to get EEC fuel injectors a better intake and a better fuel pump so idont know if price is much different considering what I have is a standard 5.0 that means I have to change basically the whole top half of motor thanks for input the more I learn the better idea I will have on both my cars I might just find me a fox mustang roller but I want a 85-86 I think they look better

  10. #10
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    You technically have to change your intake, heads, camshaft, fuel injectors and computer, maybe add a fuel pump.

    For a carb, you need to change your intake, heads, camshaft, carbon, delete the computer, either ad a fuel pump, or add a step down regulator.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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