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Thread: 87 "coug" resto winter project

  1. #451
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    more progress,
    settled on tweecer RT with a few spare tunes wide band o2 and a stock mkviii maf & housing.

    suggestion from tweecer yielded a good suggestion.
    i was asked to inspect and replace the three electrolytic caps in the eec.

    i did inspect,, found two that had an appearance of leaking on the end facing the board. the other one is ok,, but i will replace it as well.

    fyi,, this may be why this A9L was not acting or playing nice enough with my oldest son's 88bird 306 maf upgrade we did last fall. we ended up using the eec i got from vinnie a long while back which was a refurb. this a9L was working fine but not as good as vinnies,, so these caps may be the problem.

    see pics,, the three caps are obvious,, the only blue electorlytics.....
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  2. #452
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    im not a ford eec pro but am a pro at board repairs and such .... so any suggests on upgrading the caps to a type better than paste filled coke cans?

    you can see they are if anything,,, barely bad because the tops are not bulding nor the sides and no discoloration,,, just the obvious muckedy muck under two of them,, telling me that they are leaky.

    i can tell its not left over flux or whatever,, the third good appearing one is clean as a whistle underneath.
    or.....

    someone repaired already and did not clean up after themselves??

  3. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity View Post
    or.....

    someone repaired already and did not clean up after themselves??
    nope,,

    tilted these two caps a tad and found the + leg was not in the game.
    good for me,, gives me a pig tail to solder to.

    so these two caps are both radial 16v 47uf,, the other is 63v 10uf.
    i may use the next size up voltage on these two caps,,, like 25v maybe,, dono yet, depends on what i find in my caps stash

    the 63v 10uf one is the same profile can as these two 16v ones. gotta look up the color code and what "blue" means though,, probably like a number beginning with 6 since its blue. these things tend to follow resistor color code for wattage and such,, so there is a method to the madness.,, just gotta make sure i replace with something that meets & exceeds the oem design.
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    Last edited by jcassity; 05-10-2018 at 01:29 PM.

  4. #454
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    Here's a how to link for the cap replacement: http://support.moates.net/capacitor-...-ford-a9l-ecm/

    In the 3rd photo down you'll notice the rating is printed on the capacitor itself. Replacement capacitors should at least meet that rating.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  5. #455
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    nothing to see in the third pic,,

    thats ok. i have the normal info,, just wanted to make sure i used the correct wattage.

  6. #456
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    replaced the two 16v 47uf caps with 50v 47uf,, same radial electrolytic style and size.

    problem was for me that the oem ones were rated 105degC. i had plenty 85degC caps,, so i went to some scrap circuit cards and found what i needed.

    who wants to test my EEC out????

    i mail it to you and you test it.... i can spot some $ for this to you.

  7. #457
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    I would but I'd like to be clear that the factory wiring won't fry it. My A9P is happy with the factory wiring, I would just like to verify the A9L would be.

    Otherwise try your other son's car.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  8. #458
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    we did,, we had this a9L in his car when we did the maf swap upgrade....

    mason said that he felt like the vinnie eec which was a reman seemed to do better.

    when mason comes back in here in a couple weeks we will swap this one over to see.

  9. #459
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    found this interesting date on my rear seat transmission support brace system you only find if you look under your car.
    under the rear seat passanger foot rest there are two bolts sticking down tied to a flat bar that typically spans the transmission tunnel.

    these bolts are welded to another brace inside the car that follows the profile of the interior of the transmission tunnel.

    if you dont have the brace on the bottom of the car,, water will get into your floor pans and you wont know it.

    this date must represent that point in time when the physical drive shaft was installed on the assembly line,, should preceed the actual build date of the cars door jam sticker if my assumptions are correct. i have two bars shown here,, each are in line with the door jam sticker by just a brief moment of a few days.

    its like they time stamp when the car rolled off the line,, then the door jam sticker must denote a "release date" to a dealer or final inspection ready for "sell" date or something.
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  10. #460
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    moved back to the rear gear to change fluid and thought about a mod.

    i dislike the design of how to remove and add new fluids so i integrated a drain plug and a fill plug.

    i did a real test of convenience last night and it was a breeze to add new oil. obviously draining will be easy as well.

    the drain plug consists of a "Jack Nut" insert that collapses and gives you a way to thread in a bolt. I included jbweld around the jack nut mating surfaces to seal that penetration.
    the bolt fits and with it is a belvue washer (cupped washer) along with a spare fuel injector o-ring. snug it down and thats all it takes.

    the added "fill" plug is a spare petcock valve a harvested from an old radiator. i ran a tap into the hole i drilled and was amazed that i was actually able to get "a thread" of profile that matched the petcock. its got a generous rubber gasket and a convenient wing nut style which requires no tools to remove it.
    the elevation of the "fill" plug is correctly placed at the same height elevation as the NPT plug found on the front we normally would use to fill the rear.

    i painted the areas below each new adder so that visually you can "see" if there is a leak or failure in either plug.

    enjoy,,,, hope doing this was ok........ cause its done now.
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