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Thread: 87 "coug" resto winter project

  1. #471
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    measured my tps green wire and dialed it back to less than a volt,, i think its steady on .9vdc.

    did compression test
    hot engine- cyl1 and 5 both are at 165 psi.


    cold engine all cylinders are at 190 except for cyl 7 which is 173. I may need to leak down test this one to see if i have a rocker adjusted too much.
    Last edited by jcassity; 08-10-2018 at 11:09 AM.

  2. #472
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    well dang,,
    my leak down tester has the spark plug size that is stock for our cars.
    my heads take the next size up diameter spark plug thread shank "width".

    now,, my compression tester has the size i need to do compression,, but the quick connect fitting (crimped on) does not snap into my leak down tester...........

    what a pita

  3. #473
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    did a leak down test on cyl 7 and no issues.

    matter of fact,, each cylinder was like watching a re-run,, 100psi shop air and leak down needle said there is zero leak.
    in addition i was listening for air in the TB, oil fill , oil dip stick and looking for bubbles in the radiator,,, all good.

    so... i think i need to ignore the low cold compression reading on cyl 7 and recheck everything after a few miles.

    here is a pic of cyl 7 leak down
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #474
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    173 vs 190 is 91%, well within the 10% specs I usually see quoted. Could be that the rings in that cylinder had more lubricant and haven't fully seated yet.

    I'd run it as is and check.it after a couple hundred miles.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  5. #475
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    I second that. Run it, break it in on a good break-in oil, then recheck it.
    I broke mine in on synthetic and I regret it. Every time I fire it up, I get a short puff of blue, and I go through a quart of oil in 1200 miles. My rings never got a really good seat. It has decreased over time, but I wish it were better.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  6. #476
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    mike- i always assumed(could be wrong) that break in oil was always going to be thicker than the oil you intend to run normally.
    I may have messed up as well, i put rotella 15/40 for these few test starts.

    today's list is to get back in to a situation where the car will idle.
    I dont think i will get there because of the Maf tables and my first initial support tune isnt complete.

    im getting mixed signals from tweecer , in that i am being told to have the car road worthy before first tune remote support yet the car is not going to drive on its own without the first tune.

    today i will verify fuel pres and if i can manipulate the idle, see what information i can jot down about vac pressures. since i have to force feed the idle screw to keep it running, im betting this information is useless.


    when the car idles , the pass header glows red... i should check and add timing but a part of me says to leave it at 10btdc and let tweecer set up things.
    i was under the impression that the initial pre-loaded tune gets me "running ok",, but apparently thats not the case.
    I am reluctant to keep starting the car when i know i have to up the idle to keep it running.

    so,, after i piddle a bit, i will move on to rear / bumper & lights, then a seat with belt then set up my call , 1 of 3 tune support calls to get things dialed in.

    im guessing by week after next i will have info.

    I still have a constantly on oil light while running and need to figure out whats the issue.
    I have oil making it everywhere, i have a 4'' oil sender extension that might have air in it so i will see if bleeding solves that or another switch. I dont think the one i put in is new, but i did manually make / break the inside disc contact with a tiny screwdriver to verify continuity. i think when i pushed in, the ckt opened, then closed again when i let off.

    to avoid problems taking it on the road and not having been inspected yet, state police told me to make sure .........
    -car is registered, insured then pay 10$ for a 48hr pass to drive the car from point A to point B for obtaining my state inspection.
    -if the car has trouble, this pass will let me head back home and make another attempt to drive to the inspection station.
    ~~ all of which is fancy speak for making sure i have a way to take a few test hits... and not be in the bad graces of the police.




    i want to have all my questions addressed prior to tune call 1 incase there are issues i have numbers like
    -compression tests
    -leak down tests
    -vac at idle (dont think i will get good info)
    -fuel pres
    -engine build specs


    meanwhile, as i explained to tweecer, the car is not safe to drive now because the amount of idle i have to dial in, it puts the rpms high and that means i wont have good brake booster.. or good brakes...

    at this particular moment i have another open issue,,, i have no idea if the transmission is working because i am not putting it in drive at 2000rpm. with all the tiny metal flecks i found in the trans,,, knowing if the trans is going to work or not is still an open item. I am just crossing my fingers.


    what i believe is not pre-tuned on my tweecer is the MAF and the wide band 02 info,, those two things are going to screw with me in either rich or lean conditions,, since the data isnt loaded, im prob lucky the darn thing even starts at all. (or for the damage to the engine then "unlucky" ) depending on how you look at it. this is why i am reluctant to keep starting the car up.
    Last edited by jcassity; 08-11-2018 at 10:08 AM.

  7. #477
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    on another note,,
    if it were not me doing the test,, i would be skeptical if anyone else said thier engine build had zero leak at 100psi shop air.... i used the tool correctly so i guess i have to simply go with it.
    i remember getting these heads here from a member,, i took them apart and cleaned up the seats with a mild laping compound. I laid the head sideways and poured water into the exhaust ports. over night not a single bit of water escaped. did the same for intake. so.... maybe the data is right.

  8. #478
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    What is untuned on your tweecer is the MAF transfer Function, the injector hi and lo slopes voltage offset and breakpoint, displacement, and spark table scaling. I would not be surprised if you're massively over-fueling. The PW required to start and idle a 302 with 19# injectors would result in an overfueling condition 8 days a week, because the EEC doesn't know you have more injector until the new injector data is made part of the tune. MAF transfer can be bypassed for idle testing simply by turning off the ignition and unplugging the MAF and then restarting.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  9. #479
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    You need someone to build you a base tune.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

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