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Thread: 87 "coug" resto winter project

  1. #321
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    Those gaskets should work great. Just cut the little tab out of the coolant passage and you're good to go.

    I'd just get a stock replacement Motorcraft fuel pressure regulator. Even with all the stuff I've done to my car I run a stock replacement Motorcraft fuel pressure regulator.
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  2. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by thunderjet302 View Post
    Those gaskets should work great. Just cut the little tab out of the coolant passage and you're good to go.

    I'd just get a stock replacement Motorcraft fuel pressure regulator. Even with all the stuff I've done to my car I run a stock replacement Motorcraft fuel pressure regulator.
    with a 331 & 030 over bore,, i have to find out how to calculate the very "leanest" fuel needs.

    i cant see why yet a stock vac operated FPR would be an issue but it may ,, dono...........

    i can keep the car speed density or go mass air.

  3. #323
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    Either way, with a 331 and the fuel system to support it, it'll need tuned to get the best performance/drivability...
    '84 Mustang, work in (sloooooooow) progress...
    '87 Stang notch
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    and a couple of tractors. Ford, of course.
    FORD power, for life!

  4. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity View Post
    with a 331 & 030 over bore
    With a 3" stroker crank the engine is 331cu in because of the .030 overbore... With std bore it'd be a 327(or the combo Chebby used for years)... Actually 326.7264cu in but admittedly that's splitting hairs...






    My other rides (that actually do run & drive)

    1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed << New 49th Birthday Picture

    1972 Comet GT - 306 C4

  5. #325
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    ^ thats why we had the .030 bore done,, so it actually matches 331 tom.

    thank you all!

  6. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity View Post
    with a 331 & 030 over bore,, i have to find out how to calculate the very "leanest" fuel needs.

    i cant see why yet a stock vac operated FPR would be an issue but it may ,, dono...........

    i can keep the car speed density or go mass air.
    FRPP has a safe hp estimate for fuel injectors based on HP. I've attached it. If you have a horsepower guess this should be a helpful guide.

    I run 30lb injectors. The injectors are on the large side but I'm not worried about running out of fuel under any conditions in my combination.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  7. #327
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    minor progress, got engine pulling brackets made and installed.. needs paint now.
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  8. #328
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    hopefully next i can get to buy a floor shifter transmission linkage ,, that part is holding me up right now from setting the power plant.
    most everything else is down hill from here.. all the clean but tedious work of adding all the things that make this a car.

  9. #329
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    i took to the transmission the past couple days piddling around.
    took off the over to change the filter and found what appears to be grit like sand. not sure what to think..... sand has no reason to be in here...

    also found small particles of metal , color of fluid in the pan is questionable but from what i understand this is the first time the trans has had a filter change since its upgrade and rebuild. I will take a chance on it and move forward with stuffing it in the car. i laid the trans on its side and sprayed parts cleaner everywhere i could to flush out any crap.

    I was very disappointed to find this, but, it is what it is.

    what it boils down to is that all this stuff was in the bottom of the pan till i flipped it upside down, probably brought this on myself by flipping the darn thing over!
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  10. #330
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    moved on to doing a drain plug mod in the pan.
    use a product called a jack nut.
    next integrate jb weld as needed treating the weld like you would silicone in areas where it will mate to the bottom.


    The area i show is really the only safe place to add a protruding bolt.
    Its location ends up being on the rear corner of the drivers side of the pan where there are no overhead conflicts.

    drill hole
    find a washer the jack nut will slip into
    add jb weld to the washer and jack nut & washer to pan
    drop in the jack nut with washer
    insert a bolt and tighten to collapse the jack nut completely down.
    remove bolt and convert the bolt to your plug.

    eventually i will move on to making my gasket, re-bevel the mounting holes with a ball pin hammer, then clean the pan, rust neutralize and paint, then bake the paint on my wood burner here in the garage. that VHT paint has baking instructions.. heat for 30min , cool, re-bake then cool then rebake.

    I will heat it up, then take it outside and drop it in the snow to shock it. apparently you gotta temper the paint this way. Never done this before so I'll see how it goes.
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    Last edited by jcassity; 02-06-2018 at 10:38 AM.

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