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Thread: 87 "coug" resto winter project

  1. #461
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    time to move on down to exhaust. oddly crazy times over here where the car seems to be taking less priority, i have to change that.

    here are my parts pics for this post to cover the exhaust and wide band oxygen sensor.

    I have good mufflers and cats from my oldest boys car which we just built a custom 2 1/2'' Hpipe system welded up.
    i gutted his cats and getting surface rust off and neutralizing the rust.
    the mufflers are really in great shape yet the kit i got below gives me a second set to test out as well.


    here is what i bought yesterday............... apparently summit does a Vet discount as well , fyi!!!
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-680111
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-640725
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-692250-1
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3918


    I am paying 7$ for the one band clamp, yet is stainless steel , i am hoping to find a like solution for "butt" and "lap" band clamps at or under 4$ ea.,, likely not possible because of the materials req'd for such a item.
    this one band clamp will join my two piece hpipe.
    i bought this Hpipe mainly because a XR7 owner chimed in on a review and said it fit with his shorty headers like it was meant for the car.

    i wanted to go full Stainless on this but i will leave that cost up to my youngest boy later , i am at a point where now i need to make sure the budget i spent on my sons cars are close to the same figure. i hit about 6800 on masons bird,,, i hit 5800 on this coug for chance yesterday.

  2. #462
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    getting all this installed now

    this stuff from rock auto fits like a glove!!!!!!

    the second o2 sensor on the drivers side is my wide band o2.
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  3. #463
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    getting my tweecer chip stuff all groomed in.

    you cant fasten down your eec mount bracket wth the tweecer installed so you have to slip it up in there and secure as creative as you can get.

    the gray flat cable clips in so its not going to pop off easily

    the black cable is a slip on usb so i made a lanyard tied from the usb,, over top the tweecer and down to an eec screw with washer. now it will safely stay connected.

    the rotary switch is for my 4 custom tunes and pos 5 is to allow the tweecer to be bypassed by the oem eec incase things go wrong with the tweecer.

    in my case running off the eec might as well be bad as well since the eec cant keep up with 331cu in... atleast thats what i am told.
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  4. #464
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    You tuning it yourself or taking it to a shop?
    '88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, 30lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, AOD with 2800 PI converter, 8.8 with 3.73 gears, 31 spline Traction-Lok, 31 spline Moser axles, 04 Cobra front arms, Maximum Motorsports extreme duty rear arms, subframes.
    '11 Focus, '12 Mustang 3.7, '17 Accord EX-L V6

  5. #465
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    I always hated the way a twEECer fits. Or rather, the way it DOESN'T fit. My QuarterHorse is almost completely internal to the EEC. And I can connect and tune wirelessly by Bluetooth now.
    Last edited by TheFoeYouKnow; 07-28-2018 at 04:00 PM.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  6. #466
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    i paid for three tech support / remote sessions to fine tune anything.
    i will be able to tune myself later as well when i get past the learning curve.

    your right,,, tweecer installed allows you to slip your eec back up into its original mount but not all the way.
    apparently on the support group at yahoo forums, i seem to be the only one who really gives a crap about that.
    the eec holder integrates a hump back friction clip fixed to the chassis of the car so that the metal case of the eec is in constant contact wtih chassis ground when properly installed. I am forced to integrate a separate ground wire soon so i can duplicate this application / ford design which i want to keep.
    i attempted to remove the bracket to mod the plastic and open it up to accommodate the tweecer, if its impossible for me,, im sure its impossible.

    All my band clamps i got are really nice for this exhaust, i am having a blast on how clean everything is going in.
    they are beefy stainless steel and amazing!
    if you slot in two spots your "ouside pipe about 3/4'' by diving in a thin side grinder disk, it makes an even better seal.
    here> for 6.50$ ea which i got 10 of them
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wa...438,clamp,5816



    its a pain getting 2 1/2'' tubing over the axles,, i may need to cut the tail pipes at the axle area and make that area adjustable up and down due to how tall these tail pipe humps are.

    My old usa made exhaust pipe expander broke on me with all this thicker wall tubing.
    this.........
    https://www.ebay.com/p/KD-Tools-2071...7014627&chn=ps

    so,, i bought another non "kd" brand and apparently these are made of crap stuff.

    i searched and would like to present you with the very best thing ever for exhaust tubing work........... "made of USA materials" ha ha..........
    LISLE 34400 - got mine on sale for under 80$ from rock auto
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUWeohvz540
    Last edited by jcassity; 07-28-2018 at 11:22 AM.

  7. #467
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    no tail pipes on.. but start up went pretty good.
    no big issues so far.
    gotta recal my wide band o2 but thats about it.,, other than get support on the phone to do a remote session a couple times.

    start up day is history...........
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/s60jsthi7q...41159.mp4?dl=0
    Last edited by jcassity; 07-29-2018 at 04:02 PM.

  8. #468
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    doing up exhaust,, random pics.
    no mufflers yet, trying to devise a mount to theh pipe work that interfaces with the factory muffler hanger.

    This was an original 3.8L so i only had one muffler hanger bracket.

    my oldest son did up home made exhaust and it was so tucked away that the factory hangers ended up getting in the way especially since he used glass pack mufflers.

    i ended up inheriting his two mounts so i used one of his to complete this round.

    im doing band clamps everywhere to repairs later are easy. its better if you use a side grinder and dive your wheel into the exterior "overlapping" tubing in at least two spots but a smidge less than the overall width of your band clamp. this way the outside overlap pipe decreased in diameter evenly to snug up and form to the pipe its wrapped around when the band clamp is tightened.
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  9. #469
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    on the driver and pass side, this off road hpipe came with o2 sensor bungs. they are clocked wrong and i will just have to go with it.

    they needed to be anywhere in between the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock postions of the round tubing.

    on the drivers side i was told thats where my wide band o2 needs to be.
    im not an expert on this but i always thought the passanger side was a tad leaner because of the cyl 1 injector / spark is a smidge shorter in duration because of the dizzy stator width. Tweecer told me that the wide band needs to be on the lean bank and that is the drivers side. so... put the wide band on the drivers side at approx the 2:55 hours position. .... or at about the 80deg position if the top of the circle of the pipe is zero.


    also,, note that this hpipe came with two mounting horns on it that were supposed to slip into some support mounts that i think are a part of the 5.0L dual exhaust family. since my car came with single tubing,,, i fabricated up some old shock absorber rubbers then safety wired them in place to the metal horns.
    they rest evenly on the transmission cross member.
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  10. #470
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    well, i had no choice,, i had to cut the passenger side tail pipe to the rear of the axle on the vertical turn "down". this allows me to make this section more adjustable because the fuel lines are way too close to the top peak of the hump for my liking.

    i already made my slip joint to bring the two parts together but,, the horizontal section between the rear qtr and gas tank is now off.

    i am taking it to a shop with a pipe bender to adjust it the way i want it.

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