Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: POR on K member paint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    bloomington illinois
    Posts
    440
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)

    Default POR on K member paint

    Hello, I am in the process of cleaning my freshly bare K member in my 88 Cougar, still installed in car. I am using this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-15-SUPER...r#ht_63wt_1170

    starting with the marine clean and a scrub brush. I am finding I still have quite a bit of the paint left and not in too bad of shape.

    My goal is to use the metal ready next on entire surface and underside of fenderwell then rinse off with water, let dry then start POR painting.

    My question is will the POR adhere ok to the painted surface? I figure it's gotta be better than letting the stock finish try to hold off any future corrosion.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Monona, Iowa
    Posts
    467
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Sand the painted surfaces with some sand paper. If it doesn't say what grit to use in the instructions on the can I would use something between 180 and 320 grit, but even red scotchbrite would be better than nothing. Good prep and cleaning goes along way for proper adhesion.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    bloomington illinois
    Posts
    440
    Feedback Score
    6 (100%)

    Default

    Would it be best to leave the good painted srfaces alone and just coat the rusted and bare parts after being prepped?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Monona, Iowa
    Posts
    467
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    I have very little experience with POR 15, only on the top side of some rusty floor pans years ago....so not real sure. Should be fine coating everything with proper prep.

    http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/P...cationInfo.pdf

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Willow River B.C.
    Posts
    1,891
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Rust Mort, then a couple coats of some good industrial enamel or undercoating.
    1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Utah.
    Posts
    9,267
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    didn't damiac paint his whole car in por?.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    396
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    I've had a lot of experience working with it, and I can say for sure that Por15 is good stuff. As long as your prep is good, Por15 will never peel or flake off. The Silver Por is extremely tough to sand back off once it cures, so don't get any onto places where you don't want it. You also should lay down the Por in thin coats, and allow 15-30 minutes between the coats, otherwise you will get bubbles trapped in the Por, which will compromise it's protection over the long term, and just generally make it look like ass. Again, proper prep beforehand is key here, as Por doesn't like slick or contaminated surfaces and will not stick to them whatsoever. Your steps should be: Degrease, Dry, Remove as much Rust as you can, Sand Entire Piece including any painted or slick areas, Degrease again, Dry, apply Metal Ready, Degrease again to remove MR residue, Dry, and then finally Paint with Por15. If you are using the Gloss Black Por15, it has to be topcoated for it to last in the long run, anywhere where it will be exposed to UV light.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Grand Island, New York (between Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Ontario, Canada)
    Posts
    8,070
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    I used Zero-rust... totally diff stuff that doesnt flake or crack, and flexes. not to mention way cheaper
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
    Join us on Facebook

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    396
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    You'll never see Por15 crack, it's far too flexible of a coating. It certainly will flake/peel though with half-assed prep beforehand.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    8,493
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    Not one idea about "pealing" or not, but if it peels, I'd damn sure stay away.

    I had good results a few years ago with the Eastwood stuff on the bottom of a wrecker truck we swapped cabs on.
    '84 and '87 Mustangs
    '98 Explorer

    FORD forever!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •