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Thread: Once again, door windows/tracks/clips

  1. #1
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    Default Once again, door windows/tracks/clips

    So last winter I rolled the window down and there was enough ice to make the motor rip the jb-welded clips off of the drivers side window. Getting back to fixing this, I went into looking at WHY the windows come off. I removed the window and cleaned everything off today.

    Halfway down, the window needs to move downward closer to the outer shell of the door. The problem is the window track is closer to the center of the door, which pulls it in further than the window guides allow. I cleaned and glued the rear door guide to prevent the rubber from sliding down again, since this seems to be the main cause of motor hesitation in the past. That guide looked fine, and I do not see how to remove the guide near the front of the door.

    The question I have - do all of your guys' windows and tracks not want to descent and ascend together? Should I just JB-weld the thing back together, or is there something else I can do to get the two aligned better? I have no idea how to remove all the window linkages, and it would be near impossible having dampening mat covering everything, but I'd like to find a good fix for these issues - or at least best I can. I'd prefer to not hear the window motor struggle anywhere in the movement. Ideas?

    I'm to the point that I'm thinking of finding two new doors, re-dampening them more carefully with the new, CLEANER, mass-loading materials on the market, and go from there. Applying closed cell foam to the door panel rather than the door itself would make other work easier...

  2. #2
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    Ford fastened their windows to their regulators like this for a long time, I fix a couple of these a month during the summer. The trick is to get the tabs attached to the window in the right spot, or the regulator arm will tear them off sideways. Also, you need something that will still be just a little flexible, and J B Weld is too hard. In dealer we spray everything down in brake cleaner after its "clean" and fix the tabs back to the window with black RTV. That's right Black RTV. Blue is too soft, grey is too hard, and nobody should use orange for anything but exhaust, as it's resistant to heat, but nothing else. BLACK RTV, fill the tab with it, press it on, put the window in and roll the window up. leave it up for 2 to 3 days and you're good; assuming you've put the tabs in the right spots.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  3. #3
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    Any comments on the track wanting to pull away from the window (horizontally) about halfway down the window's travel? Is this normal behavior for these car's window tracks?

  4. #4
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    Make sure it's not the window pulling away from the track, or the track hanging unsecured. Also, if you DID use an epoxy, and it didn't yield while your tabs were out of their correct position, I would guess that it would find other ways to pull itself apart. Remember that the original mounting had enough give to it to allow the tabs to flex and stretch a little. J B Weld is, like any other epoxy, hard and solid. If you reach a point in the windows movement where it is intended for the tabs to flex, and they are unable, you'll definitely get some bind at that point. Seriously, brake cleaner and BLACK RTV. Don't forget to spray your window runs with silicone spray lube, also.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  5. #5
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    The fact that the track is far away from the window at the halfway point is what worries me. The track goes under the window again at the top and bottom of the travel. See the pictures below to see what I mean. The scratches came from scraping the jbweld off and is now a concern with the stress being placed on the window from the clips. I have spare windows available I can grab in the coming months.

    Clip vertical:


    Clip leaning in to window:


    Condition of guides:



  6. #6
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    Honestly, I think the window shape has more to do with the travel then the cruddy metal that tracks it.

    As a former smoker, I rolled my window up and down constantly all winter for two years. Jb weld didn't work for more then a couple days. Black windsheild adhesive worked very well. After getting the drivers side done, decided to just throw some on passemger side. It was binding badly on passenger side, but worked for 2 years that way. The clip wasn't even close to lined up.

    With everything lined up and clean, run the window up and down a couple times and watch where the clips self center, I marked mine off with electrical tape. Then I pulled the window back out and glued it outside the window. This was because I was doing it in the middle of winter, and winsheild adhesive is expensive, and one time use.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  7. #7
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    Did anybody else notice that his window regulator is twisted like a pretzel? For crying out loud, in one pic it's mounting bar is beyond the window track! The regulator should be flat, as if once removed from the door, it would lay flat on the ground. He's binding because his regulator is bent up. You can make all the custom fixes you want, but in the end, he still needs a window regulator and BLACK RTV. This is what I do for a living, Electrical and trim. At the Dealer. I am a specialist, and I know a borked regulator when I see one. These pictures say more to me about the problem than he ever could. The regulator cannot POSSIBLY move the window through its proper range of motion in this condition. Pull the regulator. And replace the missing bushing for the power lock actuator.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  8. #8
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    The pictures helped me understand the interior of the door, but it's still a tight fit. How many bolts are there because years ago I tried to remove everything from the door for complete paint, but couldn't.

    Also, those plastic clips for the power lock aren't a get-it-at-the-junkyard type part?! The rattling has been annoying me for awhile and I thought my only chance was pulling a used brittle one from another car! Nice to see you noticed that - you DO know what to look for.

  9. #9
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    No, they're a $1.50 part at the dealer. We all still have them or can get them. For the regulator, try Dorman, as you probably won't get one from Ford anymore.
    1988 Thunderbird 5.0
    GT40P, TFS-1, KB domes, 30#, MAF conversion, Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower, Smog delete, Wide Ratio AOD Mod, Unlocked Speedo, 3G Charging System Upgrade, Hi-Torque Mini Starter, 3.73 LSD, BBK 1 5/8 unequal headers, H-Pipe.

    88 Thunderbird/Cougar EVTM
    (Thanks to Trinom for hosting)

  10. #10
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    Dorman has them. They come with different styles of them. Two of them looked the same as the ones in there, then there were two that were roughly twice the size, length and depth. I used the two large ones on one side. I also roughened up the glass with sand paper and driled a couple holes into them to give the glue more holding area. This worked well, and I think toms entire length fix work even better. What tears the window out is the window glue holding the clips in place as the window goes up and down.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

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