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Thread: Seat Belt Info

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Seat Belt Info

    Just posted a brand new page that (I hope) will help dispel some rumors about the factory seat belts used in these cars, how to fix/repair them, and restoration service info. Hope you find it of good use.

    http://www.coolcats.net/restoring/seatbelts.html

    If anyone has additional info that I missed, please let me know so I can update the page.

  2. #2
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    REAR BELTS AND RECEPTACLES:
    Remove the rear seat cushion by pushing in on the front face, while simultaneously pulling up on the back part. It's tricky but be patient. Once the seat cusion is out you will see the belts bolted to the underseat floorpan, including the center receptacles. Two of the bolts will also hold the top of the rear seat down. The bolts, again, are T-50 Torx. The trickiest part is if these bolts were never removed...they will require patience, probably an impact driver, and lots of T-50 bits. Since the bolts go through the floorpan, they are exposed on the underside and are succeptible to corrosion, road salt, water, etc. and have a strong tendency to rust themselves into the floorpan. Sometimes a good overnight soaking with penetrating oil will help.

    If all else fails, you will need to heat up the bolts from the underside of the car with an acetylene torch (a common propane torch won't generate enough heat). Please BE CAREFUL as fuel lines run right by the passenger side seat bolts. It's easier to have someone heat the bolts up as you are in the car turning the bolts. Be sure to have a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water handy, in case any of the insulation catches fire.
    Yeah........ I'm still trying to figure out how to get out that damned driverside one now that I've stripped the head out.

    Very nice write up Eric. I'm glad to see you're finally able to get around to doing something with the Restoration section on the site.
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  3. #3
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    Cut the heat off with a chisiel, drill into it a bit and get a chisel slightly smaller then the hole annd go to town. Might strip the threads though.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcassity
    I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
    Hooligans!
    1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
    1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
    1986 cougar.
    lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

  4. #4
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    Thx Eric! That's one of my next big "to-do's"...
    '87 Cougar LS V6 (stock) Daily Driver
    '06 Lincoln LS V8

    '12 F-150 SCrew FX4 5.0L
    '80 Thunderbird V8 (mild 304) [sold to friend]

  5. #5
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    Eric how do you get the Mustang sleeve over our seat belt bracket? I would assume that with the Stangs you could just slide it over where it attaches to the tranny tunnel. But with receptacle that is in the '88 birds it is so wide that I just can't see it sliding over the mounting tabs. Which would leave you with the option of having to cut the new sleeve to allow it to slide over the tabs? Or am I missing something?

    Thanks for posting up this information! My inner belts are completely shot and it is amazing how nerve racking they are!
    ...and there was light!

  6. #6
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    Ummmm...no.

    There's typically a staple in the plastic sleeve, that holds the belt webbing in place. Just remove the staple, old belt slips out. Then slip old belt into new plastic sleeve, from the bottom.
    Forget the "L" shape on our factory sleeves, the belt itself is straight.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Eric, I believe I will be ordering a set! I am fed up with the floppy inner belts and don't seem to find decent factory replacements....
    ...and there was light!

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