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Thread: How to install the STS-1 tallight kit from webelectricproducts

  1. #1
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    Default How to install the STS-1 tallight kit from webelectricproducts

    Taken from another thread but its very indepth so I though I would post it here for future findable reference.

    Ok. Here we go.

    Here is my write up on how to properly install the webelectricproducts STS-1 kit. Pay attention if you plan on getting these because the way you have to do it is a little different than what is shown in the instructions. Not because they are bad instructions, just the way our cars are setup. What is getting done here is basically the same thing, just done in a different process.

    Step 1. Well heck, everyone knows step one is disconnect your battery. But who does that anyway? So the real step one would be to get yourself a pair of 3157 sockets and cut out your taillight assemblies to accept them on the innermost light where a 194 socket currently resides. Then of course you need to put them in, and splice together your brown and black wires in that spot. I did this to my car months ago so I don't have the pictures for that, but its seriously easy. Here is what I had before I started the install.



    Step 2. By this time you should be in your trunk and have the panels torn off and out of the way. Now the fun starts. First you need to cut and bare some wires. Now pay attention, its important which ones get cut. Look in the picture below. You can see that the colored wire on the outer two sockets are cut and are bared. The other end of the wire that was connected to the outermost socket from the loom is nutted off so that it does not cause a short. This wire is no longer necessary. You will also see that the innermost socket, the new one, is not bared.



    Step 3. Now you need to start the connecting of the sequencer module. First thing to do is connect the red wire on the module to the colored wire from the loom that was connected to your middle socket. This and the next step are the parts that vary from the instructions. If you haven't figured it out yet, you'll see why in a minute. I used butt crimp connectors to make these connections, simply because I had some, and I prefer them over wire nuts. The wire nuts that he supplies are plenty adequate however, should you choose to use them.



    Step 4. Now you need to take one of the provided scotch lock connectors, or quick splice or t splice or whatever you call them, and connect the red wire to the unbared section of the new socket that you installed. Now you see why we changed the directions. The instructions say that you should splice your red wire into the first socket on your tail lights. Well, since our cars by default did not come with one on the inside, we can't do this. However, it does not matter which signal wire it is connected to, since they all flash at the same time. He only tells us to do this for ease of installation. We can just as easily connect to the middle wire. But, the important part is that the red wire on the module controls the first light in the sequence, so we have to be sure that the signal reaches the correct bulb, thus we connect it to the inside light.



    Step 5. Now we connect the white wire to the middle lamp.



    Step 6. Next we connect the blue wire to the outside lamp.



    Step 7. Now we connect the ground, black wire on the module, any black wire on our sockets. I used the one on the middle light, just for ease of installation and least confusion later. Grond is ground, it really doesn't matter which wire you connect it to, just be sure to use the scotch lock connector so you don't have to cut up the wire.



    Step 9. Repeat process on the other side.



    Step 10. Make sure everything works properly and if so, button everything back up and you're good to go.

    Now my friends, enjoy your kit, hopefully it works out. Mine did, and here is what it looks like. Keep in mind I am using LED bulbs and a thermal flasher, so yours may blink a little differently.

    For this vid I did a few left signal, a few right signal, few hazard flashes, stepped on the brake a few times, then turned on the lights, and did each side a few times.

    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  2. #2
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    Nice job. I remember when I installed my sequentials. It's still my favorite addition to the Sport.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

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    Quote Originally Posted by vinnietbird the first time I posted this up View Post
    SWEET !!! I think you need to slow them down a tiny bit. But very nice. I remember installing the kit on the Sport some time ago. It's still my favorite addition to the whole car.
    lol, thx vin
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  4. #4
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    Are your bulbs "other than stock"? I like them. They seem brighter than mine.....O.K., I'll take your bulbs.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  5. #5
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    lol. No, trust me, you don't want them. They look cool but there's almost no difference between tail light and turn signal with them. If the person behind you isn't paying attention at night and your middle brake light isn't working, then they will hit you. I need to get brighter bulbs for mine. The problem is I want LED's and the "good" LED bulbs will cost me $150 for a full 6 light set for the rear. But hey if you still want mine I'll send em up to you when I replace em...
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

  6. #6
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    Nevermind, just send me some LED's.LOL.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

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