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Thread: MN-12 Power Window Regulator Rebuild

  1. #1
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    Default MN-12 Power Window Regulator Rebuild

    A few days ago it was hot, inside the 'underbird. So, like any other fool would do that has no a/c, I rolled down the windows. The passenger's side went up, fine, but the driver's side needed some help.

    I could hear the motor turning like a top, so I knew it was time to take care of another common issue on the MN-12 Thunderbirds and Cougars. The power window regulator.

    First thing first was to order the rebuild kit from Bill @ Super Coupe Performance.

    Once that arrived, I could tear down, everything, and get the window working, again. Now, my 'underbird is a 1997, so it should be the same for the '96. There may be some differences for the '89-95, but I am not making any guarantees of the accuracy for those years.

    The first thing I had to do was remove the reflector on the lower edge of the door. That gave me access to the screw holding the door panel to the door. Next I removed the control panel on the upper-side of the door. The next time I have to remove this, I am going to start with the upper right, as I broke the clip on the lower left of the panel. Also, the reflector (being 13 years old) may be brittle by the clips holding it in. I didn't have an issue, but if you do 3M moulding tape will hold the reflector fine, when you put it all back together ...
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    If worms had daggers, birds wouldn't f**k with 'em

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    With the switch panel removed, access is gained to the other bolt securing the door panel to the door.

    Next item to remove was the rubber-esqe inner panel. It's got an adhesive holding it to the door, so caution is needed removing this as to not ruin it.

    With the inner panel off, it's time to take out the door speaker ...
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  3. #3
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    There are three bolts securing the power window motor. Use caution taking those out, as the upper and lower holes are very much recessed, and it can be easy to drop a bolt. If you do drop a bolt, you can fish it out of the door. But, easier to take your time and not go chasing things.

    Once the motor is unbolted, you simple unhook the power supply, and pull the motor out of the speaker hole ...
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  4. #4
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    With the power window motor out, you can go inside and get out of the heat. Just make sure to keep any tools, bolts, and anything black out of the sun. It gets HOT when you leave them out

    You will have to remove one torx screw from the bottom of the gear cover. Once that is removed, use extreme caution to not bend the cover as you remove it with a knife, or thin flat-tip screw driver ...

    With the cover off, you can see how badly your regulator needed the rebuild ...
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  5. #5
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    Carefully remove the e-clip from the shaft of the regulator. Put it aside, as you'll need it later on.

    With the clip off of the shaft, you can remove the 9-tooth gear with the help of a flat-tip screw driver ...

    OMG! Where are my cam buttons???????
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  6. #6
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    So far so good.................
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  7. #7
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    Old vs New. You can see it was past time for a rebuild.

    Make sure to clean any, and all of the old nylon junk out of there. Brake cleaner works good with a brush and rag. Just make sure it gets clean in there. You want nothing left over that may damage the new buttons, or new gear.

    Clean the 9-tooth gear and get it ready to put into the new nylon gear.

    Insert the 9-tooth gear into the regulator gear so the shaft on the regulator is just inside of the 9-tooth gear. Then you can carefully insert the three cam buttons before pressing the two gears together....
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  8. #8
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    Next is to lube the regulator gear, the 9-tooth gear, and the worm gear. I used the old reliable red high temp wheel bearing grease

    Be more than liberal with the lube, as you don't want to have to change out the gear and cam buttons anytime soon after. You want it to last a while

    Replace the regulator assembly into the power window motor and ...remember that e-clip you set aside earlier? Look under everything on the table, under the table, and ...ah, there it is next to the table, hiding in the carpet by your work boots ...put that back on the shaft. Tighten the torx screw back down, and you're all done.

    Just put the power window motor in the opposite of how you took it out. After that's tightened and hooked back up to power, go ahead and test it. Might as well see if it works while the door's apart, as opposed to taking the door apart again.

    Then, reinstall the speaker, inner panel, door panel, switch panel, and light opposite of the way you took them off.
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  9. #9
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    All done rebuilding the motor. I had another cigarette, then went to reinstall it.

    Here's a list of tools you'll need ...

    Flat-tip Screw Driver (help with removing reflector, switch panel, and regulator cover)

    Philips Screw Driver (to take the screw out from behind the reflector)

    Needle-nosed pliers (made taking the bolts out of and reinserting them in the power window motor and the holes through the door A LOT easier)

    Ratchet with extension and reducers

    5mm socket for the speaker bolts

    8mm socket for the door panel bolt and the power window motor bolts

    #20 Torx bit for the torx screw on the power window motor
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  10. #10
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    and this is the next thing I need to do to mine...

    NEITHER ONE of mine work anymore.... this means $60 and I guess all day working on them
    --Steve
    1988 Cougar V6
    2012 F-150 3.7L
    2011 Mustang 3.7L

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