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Thread: Removing glass, handle and keylock on a 83-88 door

  1. #1
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    Default Removing glass, handle and keylock on a 83-88 door

    REMOVING DOOR GLASS FROM 87-88 CARS
    83-86 GLASS REMOVAL BELOW

    This is assuming that you have already removed all the weatherstripping from the door.

    To remove the glass from the door, you will need a 11mm. socket with an extention at least 6" long

    There are 2 horizontal openings on the inside bottom of the door.
    With the door in the lowered position, loosen the nuts holding the glass to the track.

    here's a view of the track with the nut still attached. the horizontal opening is at the bottom of the picture.


    here's a view of the nut on the front of the glass. It will look the same for the back. both nuts will be removed the same way, through the slot in the door


    once the nuts are removed, the glass should be free to pull out of the door.
    ***be careful not to bind the glass, It's safety glass and it will explode into a million little pieces if you nick an edge just right***

    For 1983-86 door glass, there are two factory pop rivets going through the glass at the bottom. Those have to be CAREFULLY drilled out, and then the glass can be taken out. It's a little tight for cars with vent windows too. For reinstallation, short bolts and shallow nuts can substitute for pop rivets, but thread locker should be used to prevent the nuts from backing out. (Added by Eric)

    pull the glass up and towards the outside of the frame. You will also need to tilt the glass so the handle side comes out first.

    be patient, it's a little awkward, but can be done by yourself.

    here's a view of the glass with the infamous plastic holders.
    If you have problems with your window tilting and getting stuck. this is the part you need to re attach to the glass. These appear to be attached with silicone caulk.


    Reinstall to come
    ************************************************** ************

    REMOVING OUTER DOOR HANDLE 83-88 CARS

    There are 2 aluminum rivets holding the door handle on
    here's an inside view of the rivets, and the shaft attached to the handle.
    These 2 rivets need to be removed by either drilling them out or clipping them off from the back. (I clipped them off)Once the rivets are out, you can pull the rod down to remove the handle.


    Reinstall to come
    ************************************************** ************

    REMOVING KEY LOCK 83-88 Cars


    Unclip the rod from the key lock


    Pry the locking clip out from the door.


    It should pull right out


    The key lock should pull out freely




    Reinstall it come.
    If anyone knows if this will work on the pre-87 cars, let me know so I can update this. I'll also update this as I get better pics from the other side.
    Last edited by daminc; 11-26-2008 at 07:31 AM. Reason: updated
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
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  2. #2
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    Great Documentation, way to put the new sub-section to good use

  3. #3
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    Jerry, all cars 1983-88 are the same for the door handles and locks. I suppose the only addendum would be for those with illuminated locks, as there's some wiring to disconnect first before it will pop out.

    Reinstallation on the door handles can be with pop rivets, but they are relatively large in size and may be expensive to buy the tool and rivets, unless you know someone at a body shop that can do that for you. Personally I have been using 1-1/4" carriage bolts with thread locker on the nuts on the inside. That greatly discourages anyone from drilling them out from the outside, and it's rather convenient to replace a simple bolt the next time around.

    Now for 1983-86 door glass, there are two factory pop rivets going through the glass at the bottom. Those have to be CAREFULLY drilled out, and then the glass can be taken out. It's a little tight for cars with vent windows too. For reinstallation, short bolts and shallow nuts can substitute for pop rivets, but thread locker should be used to prevent the nuts from backing out.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Eric,
    I'll be getting to the illuminated key locks soon.
    the window rivets are like the way my 78 monarch was done. Unfortunately I over-tightened them during install and the glass exploded. LOL
    Lesson learned
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
    Join us on Facebook

  5. #5
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    Updated
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
    Join us on Facebook

  6. #6
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    sticky! awesome, i used your window trim write-up too. thanks man
    84 TC - under contruction
    09 Malibu LTZ - 2.4, 6 speed, gets me to work and back.
    98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

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