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Thread: Removing 87-88 window trim & Re-install-- Step by Step --(updated Aug/30/08)

  1. #1
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    Default Removing 87-88 window trim & Re-install-- Step by Step --(updated Aug/30/08)

    Here's a step by step removal of all the outer door trim.

    Tools Needed
    #2 philips head
    9MM socket
    10 MM socket
    7/16" socket
    1/8" drill bit

    1) Using a 9MM socket, remove the nut on the inside outer edge of the door holding the bottom weather stripping on.


    2) Lift the strip up, and pull it towards the back of the car.
    It should side right out.


    3) Locate and remove the screws at both ends of the inside weather strip.
    It should lift right out


    4) Using a 10mm socket, remove the nuts holding the mirror on.


    5) Disconnect the wiring leading to the mirror and feed the wire out, removing the mirror from the door.


    6) Remove the 1 screw holding the trim on and remove the trim piece.


    7) Gently pry the window seal from the trim piece. there is butyl holding it on at both ends of the window.
    Be very careful not to bend or damage the pieces if you are reusing them. they are made of aluminum covered in rubber and bend very easy.


    8) you should be able to slide the window seal down into the door, separating it from the top trim piece. the handle side should also slide down into the door enough to separate it from the trim piece and clear the door frame.


    Here's a view of the window seal pushed into the door.
    If it doesn't slide into the door, check to be sure it's not binding, or glued with butyl somewhere.


    9) With the top of the window seal clearing the upper door frame, pull the seal out so it clears the door and pull the back side out of the door. the front side should slide out easily also. if it doesn't, don't force it, it may need a little sweet talking to get it out of the front window track. the track goes all the way down to the bottom of the door.
    Here it is out of the door. you can see how long the one side is.
    **when reinstalling, the seal must go back around the glass and inside the metal track inside the door.**


    ******************************IMPORTANT UPDATE******************************************
    After taking apart several doors, the front part of the glass seal should not be able to slide out of the door channel inside the door.
    It appears that the adhesive dries out on some, which allows the seal to pull out of some doors. If the seal does not pull out easily, do not force it. proceed to the following step.


    9a) This is the correct way to remove the seal that goes around the glass. ***STEP 9 WILL ALSO WORK IF THE TRACK UNGLUES FROM THE SEAL**
    On the front lower portion of the door, locate and remove the 7/16" bolt holding the seal and glass track.


    The seal should now move easily inside the door.
    push it down into the door to clear the top of the door, pull the seal outwards and up. the back side of the seal should come out first.
    gently pull the front seal up and out. **BE CAREFUL NOT TO CHIP THE GLASS WITH THE METAL TRACK INSIDE THE DOOR** It will take some twisting and turning, to avoid the glass with the track. the hardest part is getting the bolt flange out of the top space. It will come out easy at the right angle.
    Be patient.....
    You should now have the entire seal and track out.



    10) with the seal now removed, the rivets holding the trim pieces are exposed.
    Using a 1/8" bit, drill out all the rivets. the trim should be free from the car. be careful not to bend the trim.






    11) holding the trim piece, gently remove it from the side trim piece.
    The side piece can also be removed by drilling out the rivets.


    The vertical trim piece is also held on with rivets.
    drill out the rivets, and remove the trim cap.




    The trim it's self is held on by double sided moulding adhesive tape.
    Using a knife, carefully cut through the tape to free the trim from the door.


    With the tape cut, the piece should slide off the end of the door


    Here's a view of the amount of tape you have to cut through.


    There you have it, all the trim removed from the door.
    be careful of the window rubbing on metal door. it will move around without the glass seal in the door.

    installation will be the reverse of the above.
    new rivets will need to be used when installing the trim pieces.
    use the aluminum rivets with the larger heads for installation.

    If there's any questions, or something needs to be explained better.
    Give me a shout and I'll revise something.



    Installing the door trim

    In addition to the tools, you will also need moulding adhesive tape, If you removed the vertical trim.
    Black butyl or glass sealant, to reseal the trim again.
    1/8" aluminum rivets and rivet gun


    1)Position the top trim piece even with the back edge of the door and rivet it to the frame using 1/8" aluminum rivets. I happen to have thousands of them for installing gutters. They should work fine.


    2) providing you have taken off the vertical trim, and cleaned the old adhesive off, re-apply the moulding adhesive to the back of the trim. Position it tight to the top of the door trim and press it on. it's easier to get a small corner peeled back of the tape, find the correct position of the trim and then pull off the tape backing while in position.
    With the trim in place, put the 3 rivets in the trim cap and secure it to the door.
    It should look as it did before removal. I didn't remove mine. (I will update this when I do)


    3) reinstall the glass seal. If your seal was able to pull out of the glass track, guide it back in. It should slide easily between the glass and the track. Push it all the way down so it clears the top of the door
    If you removed the whole seal and track, gently insert the track into the glass opening, BE CAREFUL NOT TO CHIP THE GLASS. Once inside the door, push it down so the top of the seal clears the door.
    Here is the bolt flange going into the glass opening



    push the seal so it clears the top of the door


    4) Start the back side of the seal into the door between the glass and the frame.


    Push it down so it also clears the top of the door.


    Push it in and up so it seats on the flange of the top of the door.


    5) With the seal in place and tight to the top and side trim, replace the 7/16" bolt if you have removed it. snug the bolt in it's original unpainted position for now.

    6)Using the sealer or butyl caulk, put a thin bead at the bottoms where the seal meets the trim. (about 3-4 inches)
    you can use a putty knife to pry the 2 apart.

    Also seal here, where it was originally sealed.


    7)Put a dab of sealant around the screw hole and reinstall the trim around the mirror.


    Yes, I know, the seal isn't attached to the frame in these pics.Yours should be tight and caulked with the mirror trim over the top af the glass seal.




    8) With everything in it's proper location and tight to the car again, install the mirror using the 10MM nuts. Feed any wiring or cables through, position the mirror in the proper place and tighten it down.




    9) With everything secure and sealed, position the small tab of the outer window seal into the mirror trim.


    Gently insert the clips into the door and push it down tight to the car. The end bolt should line up with the hole. position the trim even with the edge of the door and tighten it down using the 9MM nut




    The outside should now be done.




    10) install the inside seal, lining up the 2 holes, and screw it down.




    11) reconnect any wiring or cables making sure they're not in the way of the window or motor, and SLOWLY test the window.






    If the window doesn't move freely of seems to bind or shudder as it moves. Loosen the 7/16'' bolt just below the speaker opening and adjust the window track. It may take a couple tries to get it right.

    When everything is moving smooth, you can now reinstall your door interior.

    DONE
    Last edited by daminc; 08-30-2008 at 08:43 AM. Reason: Added stuff to #11
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
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  2. #2
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    Nice write up.I'll be back to read it again when the door work starts.Great job !!!

    Do you think small self tapping screws could take the place of the rivets?
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  3. #3
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    The heads would need to be flat so the rubber glass seal can sit flat with the top trim piece.
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
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    Sticky worthy!

    What about the trim piece along the trailing edge of the door? I've never attempted to remove it and want to.
    -- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !! -- 87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's! http://www.fquick.com/V8Demon

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    3 hidden rivets holding it on like the top trim. (between the rubber glass seal/track.
    I didn't take it off my car because I was swapping the black trim for the chrome.
    The swap will be part 2 of this post. I need to put the windows back up to finish working on it. LOL
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
    Join us on Facebook

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    I await pics patiently. Thanks!
    -- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !! -- 87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's! http://www.fquick.com/V8Demon

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    Should be tomorrow evening
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
    Join us on Facebook

  8. #8
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    I need to R&R (remove and repaint) those vertical pieces on the edge of the door too - I never could figure out how to remove them

    I even have extra doors to practice on!
    11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

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    Talking

    great job!

  10. #10
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    Thanks, I'm gad I took the time to take the pics.

    #11 is updated to include the vertical trim piece.
    I'm working on the install.
    I had to make sure the chrome and rubber trim was swappable before I did anything.
    You'll all be happy to know that everything is swappable, and it takes about 15 min a door to disassemble.
    and about 10 -15 min to reassemble.
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
    Join us on Facebook

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