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Thread: Suggestions before reassembly?

  1. #1
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    Default Suggestions before reassembly?

    I'm looking for suggestions and ideas before putting the interior back together.

    I've got RAAM insulation to add, some replacements for worn or broken parts, everything's getting cleaned or new paint, incandescents replaced with LEDs. I'm thinking about having the headliner done again even though it looks good now.

    While everything's apart, is there something not mentioned that should be done or replaced?
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    Do you already have new carpet?If not,get some.No need cleaning old carpet when new stuff is fairly reasonable.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,TMoss GT-40 intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,70mm t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK headers,O/R H-Pipe, Dynomax mufflers, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels,Mass Air, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  3. #3
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    Forgot to mention the carpet. Got it after trying to clean the original.
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    Quote Originally Posted by t3skidoo View Post
    I'm looking for suggestions and ideas before putting the interior back together.

    I've got RAAM insulation to add, some replacements for worn or broken parts, everything's getting cleaned or new paint, incandescents replaced with LEDs. I'm thinking about having the headliner done again even though it looks good now.

    While everything's apart, is there something not mentioned that should be done or replaced?
    What's RAAM insulation?
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
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    What's RAAM insulation?
    http://www.raamaudio.com/
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    #1 (left): undergoing top-to-bottom rebuild
    #2 (right): DD, power everything (sorta)

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    That stuff looks nice, how is it so far?
    ***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****

    5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner mufflers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
    Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed.
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    That stuff looks nice, how is it so far?
    Not far enough along to tell you anything useful, but will post when I know something either way.
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    I have parts,tools,space to work,most everything i need.I just can't find any time.
    '88 Sport--T-5,HURST shifter,TMoss GT-40 intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,70mm t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK headers,O/R H-Pipe, Dynomax mufflers, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels,Mass Air, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

  9. #9
    88TurboCoupeman01 Guest

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    I would check the dash cover and shifter boot, and the covers were the power seats if u have them. Check that stuff.

  10. #10
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    My opinion on the RAAMmat BXT/any decent mass-loaded dampener and closed cell foam, I didn't gain much doing the sides of the car. The doors are dead silent down low, but all I hear is wind noise at the top of the doors. I did numerous layers of RAAMmat BXT over the entire sides of the car with a single layer under the rear seat, with 4.5 layers of their closed cell foam on the doors (2.5 on the inner metal, 2 on the outer) with not enough improvement for the amount I put on. The roof and floor would gain the most after hearing my differences doing the walls. I'll get around do adding to these places at some point down the road but I don't haver an issue with road noise as the factory stuff is THICK and does do quite a good job.

    The roof needs help and the door to roofdesign can't be fixed - the huge channel between the door top and roof causes terrible wind noise at highway speeds where I wanted the deadening the most.

    Also, don't put too much deadening under the rear seat...it won't go back on. I completely bent my lower seat when trying to push the first side into its little groove.

    I doubt you spent hundreds on deadening materials though so I don't think you'll have the same problems I ran into. The door design itself was still my biggest problem with front stage sound quality - they just aren't setup with the proper angles or structure that can lead to good sound. I put mass loading on all internal parts, along with foam and things still rattle inside there just driving down the road. It drove me insane but I just gave up the quest for silent doors. Too many rods and a poor door handle rod design (bolted tight, it still rattles until you put 50lbs of weight on the handle itself, then it stops). Who knows, it may just be my doors.

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