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Messages - jcassity

31
Lounge / home made christmas gift idea
this may not be up everyone's ally but here is a gift idea that i honestly believe every house could use and it being appreciated for many generations to come.  simple tech always seems to win in the long run.  a good christmas gift for anyone , easy to make and nearly all the material you should have lying around.    pay attention to what i mention in the vid about making the total unit a tad bit longer to accomodate wide mouth jars.

enjoy......................

https://youtu.be/dtktmX3pBKQ
32
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
haystack, i do have a double roller going in.
as for the wear,, you and softtouch have me twitching now.  he said "it looks kinda dry in there,, now your asking bout the wear.
I never got an indication of low oil press at any time.

since i have the front cover parts off,, i think ill do the following...............
pull the dizzy
dump some oil in the pan from the front
run a drill to drive the pump,, CCW of course
then watch and listen and see if oil is raining down back into the pan.

im on what i believe is my last day of this bug i caught and of course i was nice enough to share it with the wife.  after im sure she;'s back up and running , i will get back on this. 

does anyone have an actual account of doing or knowing of anyone changing out an oil pump in this platform with the engine in the car?
if the engine comes out.. its not going back in with just an oil pump....

my son has always said i need a spare built out motor on standby always for either he or I so we can quickly swap and be back up and running within a couple hours.   Im starting to think that may need to become an option.
33
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
im just getting over a bug i caught but did make time to order some parts i dont have on hand like...

motor mounts - i bet both of mine are split in half
ujoints
Brake Rotors
Brake pads

I know it was mentioned i should swap in a new oil pump.  Has anyone been able to swap an oil pump with the engine in the car?
I know i plan to jack up the engine as high as possiblle then block it,,, will this give me room to get the pump out?  if yes,, then this means  i can do a new one peice gasket as well.

I was able to do a pump in my bronco,, by dropping the pan and stuffing my hands in between the pan and block,, it was tight but i did it.  on the coug though,, i think even having the motor blocked up it will still be tricky.

34
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
if im diving into the oil pump,,, then im also getting motor mounts.  im betting the mounts have split in two by now.

this oil pan gasket is rediculous though,, its a rubber gasket with metal washers at every bolt opening.  they seem to want to just fall out,, at least the ones up front under the timing cover did so i deleted them.
Id rather have the ford explorer style rubber coated metal ones
35
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
Looks awful dry in there. However that chain is supposed to get lubed aint working.
Is the shallow end of the pan in the front?
Can you look in or stick something in the pan to see if there's oil there?
Maybe it is supposed to splash or sling oil up from the pan.

yes,, there is oil up front in the front sump area.

its my understanding that the crank slings oil up to the cam lobes & to the dizzy gear.  the dizzy gear slings oil out to the timing chain.,,, then the front part of the oil pan plays catch.  I agree with you though.  Ive just  never had any indication that im not oiling right.  The car did sit for a good while before i got the cover off so it makes sense that things were not "dripping" wet. 

I hope im right on how the chain acctually gets lube becasue i dont know how it can any other way.  I thought Turbocoupe50 told me about this a few years ago when i asked him about this.
38
Lounge / seeds
who here saves back their seeds from gardening>>?

I have *********WAY TOO MANY********** and its a sin to waste them.

I want this to be a serious topic for serious times by serious people who are not asleep.
I am considering a zero dollar cost idea to network us all together on one platform that will eventually piss off the globalists.
39
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
i'll find that stuff and maybe do a youtube review.
I was going to use candle wax and torch,, it wicks in as it gets heated.  check out the vids on using wax on bolts to loosen them.

For the bolts,, ive thought about an alternative ,, use threaded studs with nuts custom cut to length.  i actually dont want to put the oem bolt kit back in if i have to.  ive seen those Long shank bolts corroded down 50% or more of their original thickness.

now i think of it,, maybe stainless threaded stock would be the best.  then from now and until next time all i have to do is take off all the Nylock nuts i imagine i would use.
40
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
I think step 1 is to heat each bolt before i losen then,, and maybe use my batt powered impact set on its lowest setting possible to shock each bolt loose.
41
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start **Diagosed**
rotated crank to tdc and the piston was really high which sorta sounds good.
I observed the rotor button location and it appeared to be a tad bit too far away from dizzy cap #1 post than normal even with 12 or so deg BTDC figured in.

so............ i figured there's only one thing left to do in order to be 99.9% sure i jumped time so i did a compression test on a few random cylinders.
cly 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 all had about 90psi.

this low reading on each is equal wish is good.
it also tells me that the likelyhood i jumped ONE tooth might just be the case due to having such a high psi in my broken state.

so.......................................... now i will pray all the timing cover bolts come out.  if they dont,, well, thats going to really suck but   i suppose thats what a drill and thread repair kits are made for. 

I think for this situation i am in, i will be removing the header panel and front bumper cover & bumper.
Life is going to be so much easier doing this job with the motor in the car.   at 375k miles though.......urrgh. 

what i am actually attempting to do is run this rotella 15w40 motor for as long as i can to set some sort of personal record which i hope other people here have tried or are doing.  Proving its hard to break a pushrod motor is finally becoming mainstream on a lot fo the car channels on youtube lately.  All these miles are highway i might add,, well 80% of them are.
42
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start
so from my to do list above

codes are pointless, i needed to take the coug batt over to the bronco yesterday. then charge the bronco's for the coug.
i could pull memory codes i guess

spraying fuel in the TB did not generate a hint of the engine even wanting to "hit",, just engine whirl , no hits

no blown fuses in my fuse panel or my remote slave relay fuse panel

5.2v on my 5v reference up in the engine bay

did not swap in "another" TFI on the dizzy.

I did check timing and it appears i cant see the marks show up so it looks like i jumped time.  compression test would have confirmed i bet.

tomorrow i will dial the crank to zero TDC and pull the #1 plug then feel where the piston is with a screw driver.
im 90% sure i jumped time but tomorrow will tell me more.  I'm betting #1 piston is way down the tube.

GOOD TIMES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




43
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Something to remember when moving a bolt hole...
forgot to mention...........
A very good/ reliable threadd insert for making a drain plug is a product called a "JACK NUT"
drill hole
use high temp washer(s) on each side
goober some high temp jbweld on the inside/outside surface of pan
tighten bolt and it crimps in place.
the bolt you use to install the jack nut becomes your drain plug.


I think there is a bulkhead fittings (think above ground swimming pool penetrations) that would also work well.

all the above requires no welding.  just the drilling of a hole.
44
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Something to remember when moving a bolt hole...
wow,, old thread but.
pro-tip 2
use a banjo fitting on the bottom of your oil and trans pan.
use a hyd hose from your oil pan and dress /secure hose towards the outboard  "side area" of your car.
your hyd hose will have a JIC fitting / cap on the end.,,,
same for trans pan.
now,, to change fluids, stoop down and with one hand locate where you have your hose clipped to.
take off the end cap and drain into pan.

this application has existed in big rig / military rigs etc for decades.
its time we stop crawling under our cars for oil changes,, its 2023
45
Engine Tech / Re: cranks no start
i got to nothing today,, and perhaps maybe tomorrow either due to temps outside but i may try anyway.
today got absorbed by property tax, some misc shopping then getting back to find out my partition in cyber monday is required.

i'll make a list....
pull codes
inject fuel into the TB to see if the motor even hits
check for blown fuses
check timing
check compression
check misc 5v ckts
maybe swap in another TFI spare just to be sure i didnt swap a bad for bad