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View Full Version : Issues with remote start install - guages don't work



amooset
12-18-2004, 07:32 PM
Okay, finally got my remote start/keyless entry installed. The only problem I have is now my fuel guage and temp guage no longer work. Could I have accidently unplugged something? What is the common link between these two guages?

merccougar50
12-18-2004, 11:05 PM
1. check all fuses

2. How did you groud the command start. Did you distrub the instruament pannel ground.

3. Where did you steal power from for the command start and (if applicable) door locks and trunk release relays. Did you steal power from one of the hot wire in the instraument cluster?
Properly the command start should be suppled by the yellow wire(s) in the ignition switch harness, and other accessory relays supplied power from the fuse box, not a dedicated power wire.

amooset
12-18-2004, 11:42 PM
Did you distrub the instruament pannel ground.



Where might I find the instrument panel ground? I may have disconnected it somehow, but I can't find any loose wires.

MasterBlaster
12-19-2004, 05:09 AM
What is the common link between these two guages?
Well, you didn't say what type of dash you have, so I'll assume it's the standard digital speedo/analog temp+fuel.

They have separate grounds via their respective "senders".

A13 (yel/wht) for fuel, A15 (red/wht) for temp, both on the Gray plug.

They both get power through the plastic wiring "sheet" from the instrument voltage regulator (the 9-volt battery-sized thing on the back).

It gets power from the ignition switch via A12, and grounds via A14.

If you took the gauge cluster out, you might not have plugged it all the way back in, or you may have damaged the plastic sheet, or cut the wrong wire.

As mercoung50 asked... "Where did you steal power from "?

amooset
12-21-2004, 01:24 AM
I stole the power from the main ignition wires per the instructions in the install manual. And I didn't cut the wires, just shaved off some insulation and spliced into it. The dash is the base cluster as you assumed. I did notice that there was a lighter guage wire on top of the column (I think it was yellow, may have had a stripe) where the insulation had rubbed off and may have been grounding out on the column. Did I fry something in my cluster? How would I go about testing this?

amooset
12-27-2004, 10:44 PM
I never took out the dash cluster, so the problem has to be somewhere in the ignition wiring. Since the guages only work when the ignition is on, could I have some wire down there that has gone astray?

I am totally lost right now, I think I've checked everything I possibly can. The help so far has been greatly appreciated, but unfortunately, I need more :disappoin

amooset
12-28-2004, 02:08 PM
A13 (yel/wht) for fuel, A15 (red/wht) for temp, both on the Gray plug.

They both get power through the plastic wiring "sheet" from the instrument voltage regulator (the 9-volt battery-sized thing on the back).

It gets power from the ignition switch via A12, and grounds via A14.


I took the cluster out today and I didn't see any wire in the harness at A14. On coolcats it says that a14 is 5v out from guages. How could it be ground if that is correct?

MasterBlaster
12-29-2004, 06:57 AM
How could it be ground if that is correct?

Uhhh.... the board must have deleted some of the words from my post. Here's the original version, with the missing words put back. :D

It gets power from the ignition switch via A12, and sends 5V to the gauges, which have their own grounds via their "senders", and to the low-fuel module via A14.

Well, while the cluster is out, check for 12v at the grey plug's A12 (grey/yellow? Eric says lightblue/pink) with the key on.

Ground should be B18 (brown plug).

You can also check the gauges themselves with a 6-9v battery.
Connect the battery across each gauge's two terminals (just for a couple of seconds). If the needle moves, the gauge is okay.