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The Shredder
03-05-2011, 09:28 PM
Wanted to get started on my Build Thread...

I have a 1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. It is Twilight blue metallic (or was before the clear-coat peel) with blue cloth interior. It has every option except for leather seats. I bought it as a parts car, but I have decided to make it something special...

The plan:
A smooth, comfortable, great handling street machine with 400+ rwhp -- something that can hang with 90% of the street cars, but something my wife wouldn't be afraid to drive.

A 5.0L HO with a single turbo kit and an automatic transmission. Hoping to keep all of the creature comforts, but have power to spare.

This will be a longer term project that won't happen overnight. So check in every so often and enjoy the progress!

The Shredder
03-05-2011, 09:38 PM
Here are some pictures of the victim as I purchased it...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/IM001617.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/IM001618.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/IM001610.jpg

sarjxxx
03-05-2011, 09:44 PM
For some reason I just never could get into blue interiors... maybe cause mine's red... Anyway looks nice man. No doubt you'll be taking some pointers from flylear?

1Bad88tbird
03-05-2011, 10:04 PM
It looks way to nice to be a parts car. I'm glad you decided to do something with it instead.

The Shredder
03-05-2011, 10:06 PM
The car had been sitting for years because of ABS brake issues. And the lady that owned it didn't want to put money into it to fix it - so it just sat and sat.

I bought it thinking I might use the drivetrain for a project. But after cleaning up the car and interior, it was actually in very good shape. So I decided to get it running...

- So I swapped the ABS unit to Vacuum Assist - SN95 booster/master cylinder.
- Plus the fuel tank was completely rusted from sitting so long. Replaced the fuel tank and fuel filter
- Changed the oil and filter
- Replaced transmission fluid/filter
- Put a new battery in it

It started and ran really pretty well! But the A4LD transmission front seal was leaking like a sieve.

- So I pulled the transmission and replaced the front seal
- Repaired the rusted exhaust mid-pipe

And now the car runs very well and the transmission shifts great.

So why would I go and mess with a perfectly running stock TurboCoupe? Just because.

The Shredder
03-05-2011, 10:11 PM
For some reason I just never could get into blue interiors... maybe cause mine's red... Anyway looks nice man. No doubt you'll be taking some pointers from flylear?

Yep! Flylear has been my inspiration to get started. I have been following his thread from the beginning. Our builds will be similar except I hope to buy a turbo kit rather than fabricate one. He has more skills than I do. :)

The Shredder
03-05-2011, 10:29 PM
Since I got the car running, I noticed the Electronic Automatic Temp Control (EATC) was acting funny. The control unit would blink saying something was wrong. And with the blower motor on high, it would vibrate the whole car and spit acorns out the floor vents. Plus the heater core started leaking.

Time to start teardown...

Engine compartment view:

Removal of heater and A/C lines and heater box fasteners:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore001.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore003.jpg

Removal of dash wiring in the engine compartment:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore002.jpg

Interior view:

Removal of the console, steering column and disconnect dash mount points:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore004.jpg

Disconnect all the wiring harness connections and remove the dashboard:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore010.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore008.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore009.jpg

Next, the heater box needs to come out:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore007.jpg

And what would I find?
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore011.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore012.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_HeaterCore013.jpg

A critter had made a happy home in the heater box, storing up nuts for the winter - probably for many peaceful years while the car sat. It was NASTY in there with the upper area above the blower fan being the creature's bathroom.

jridenour31
03-05-2011, 10:36 PM
Haha I found the same thing in mine. You should just be thankful that's the only thing our teardowns had in common. I had a nest under the upper intake on a 5.0 and as I was pulling it out I got a handful of a live five foot long blacksnake.

1Bad88tbird
03-05-2011, 11:13 PM
Haha I found the same thing in mine. You should just be thankful that's the only thing our teardowns had in common. I had a nest under the upper intake on a 5.0 and as I was pulling it out I got a handful of a live five foot long blacksnake.

I would totally freak!!! I hate snakes!!!

jridenour31
03-05-2011, 11:22 PM
I would totally freak!!! I hate snakes!!!

I definitely did. It was funny later but I wasn't too happy at the.time.

OP, I really like the project, although I may be a little biased lol. Are you going to run a stock HO with an AOD? That's definitely a peppy little street setup. What are you controlling it with?

The Shredder
03-06-2011, 12:07 AM
Well here is a little more detail about the drivetrain build...

Engine plan:
stock 306 roller block with forged dished pistons
explorer rods (a little beefier than HO) with arp wave-loc bolts
stock HO cam and roller lifters
stock iron gt40 (not P) heads with upgraded TrickFlow springs/retainers
cobra intake with phenolic spacer and 65mm TB
42lb injectors with explorer rails and kirban fuel pressure regulator
Lightning 90mm blow-through MAF

Transmission:
4R70W from a 5.0L explorer 2WD
Baumann OptiShift controller

Rear-end:
Lincoln Mark VII 8.8 Traction-Loc with 3.27 gears

Suspension:
stock ride control struts/shocks
SN95 front and rear springs
SN95 spindles
Cobra 13" disc front brakes
89 Lincoln 11.x" disk rear brakes
CHE Rear control arms

A lot of these are the ultimate goal, but I plan to build it in stages so that I can enjoy driving it for a while before the next phase.

Phase 1 - GT40 HO Engine running 19lb injectors and stock HO MAF and TB with stock AOD. stock A3M1 HO computer.
Phase 2 - Rear-end and suspension/brake modifications
Phase 3 - Ponydown or B&G turbo kit running 7-10psi with 42lb injectors and Lightning MAF and 65 or 70mm TB. Upgraded 255 lph high pressure walbro fuel pump. 4R70W with Baumann Optishift controller. Quarterhorse or Tweecer controlling A3M1 EEC-IV - possibly moates.net chip once the tune is dialed in. Hi/Low electronic boost controller and tunes controlled by the Prem/Regular Fuel switch on the dash. LOTS of other mods planned too.

Man, I can't wait to get there. But slow and steady wins the race!

jridenour31
03-06-2011, 06:42 AM
Nice setup, I really like the decision to go with the 4R.

The Shredder
03-06-2011, 08:24 AM
Yeah. I like the durability and tune-ability of the 4R70W electronic transmission. And I think the stock ford ecu is flexible enough (with J3 port add-ons) for my needs in engine management department.

The plan is to have the premium/regular dash switch control the level of boost, the engine tune and the transmission shift patterns/firmness. In 'Regular' setting, I can tame it down when others drive it... but turn it up (with the flip of the switch) to impress the friends and neighbors. :)

HAVI
03-06-2011, 09:05 AM
I agree that car is too nice to part out. They just aren't found around every corner anymore.

I have a blue interior as well. It's almost overwhelming sitting inside looking at all of that blue. I have a grey interior I hope to install down the line. Someday..... someday.

ThunderbirdSport302
03-06-2011, 01:36 PM
After having two 'Birds with the red interior, I couldn't stand it anymore...felt like I was driving a whorehouse on wheels (sans...whores. well, except for that one, but I never got any action lol)

So yeah, I could relate to the blue. Then again, I'm partial to black. And gray.

The Shredder
03-06-2011, 02:57 PM
Fear not. The blue interior will be gray in time. Here is the donor interior that will make it's way into this car...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/Cougar%20LS/CougarParts024.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/Cougar%20LS/CougarParts025.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/Cougar%20LS/CougarParts021.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/Cougar%20LS/CougarParts018-1.jpg

86caprirs
03-06-2011, 04:36 PM
I wish you were closer. I would take the blues door panels.

88turbo
03-06-2011, 04:58 PM
why would you want to swap out a 3:73 rear for a 3:27 rear?

jridenour31
03-06-2011, 05:39 PM
why would you want to swap out a 3:73 rear for a 3:27 rear?

Turbo cars like numerically lower gears. I made the exact same swap.

The Shredder
03-06-2011, 06:03 PM
jridenour31, it looks like I'm building something similar to what you were originally planning with your 88 t-bird - before you completely lost your mind. :)

jridenour31
03-06-2011, 07:10 PM
jridenour31, it looks like I'm building something similar to what you were originally planning with your 88 t-bird - before you completely lost your mind. :)

Lol yeah, pretty much. You'll definitely enjoy it, I know I did.

sarjxxx
03-06-2011, 11:10 PM
oooh that gray is in great shape!

Man I understand a squirrel building a nest in your heater, but hth did it get in there? I mean sure the car sat but what were the doors open or something??? was there a giant hole in the floor? I just don't understand!

The Shredder
03-07-2011, 11:50 AM
Steve, it was either a chipmunk or a squirrel. It appears the critter got into the cowl area and then down into the heater box through the upper fresh air inlet. He couldn't get into the cabin of the car - because the recirculation door was closed in one direction and he couldn't get past the A/C evaporator core in the other direction.

I can only assume he got in over the plastic inner wheel liner since he stole some of the wheel liner insulation for his bedding! There are holes in the upper frame rail under each fender.

Jon

1Bad88tbird
03-07-2011, 03:29 PM
That crazy how they can find thier way into places like that. They're defenately not closterphobic! lol!

sarjxxx
03-07-2011, 08:54 PM
haha that's funny. I bet he was so dissapointed when that car dissapeared! I mean, can you imagine? ...You spend months building your house, then leave to go to work, come back and its gone? Geez!:giggle:

Anyway, at least now you don't have to worry about replacing the heater core anytime soon.

The Shredder
03-10-2011, 10:18 PM
Alright. I made just a little progress tonight. I got the heads on the the new engine and torqued the thrust plate bolts, the cam bolt, the lifter valley spider bolts.

I just need to take a few days off to get this engine wrapped up. Then I'd like to yank the existing engine/transmission and cleanup the engine bay.

Here are a few pics of the shortblock and longblock so far...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine001.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine003.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine004.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine006.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine005.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine007.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine009.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine010.jpg

sarjxxx
03-10-2011, 10:28 PM
YES!!!! LUBE!!!!!




Man that thing is shiny. Makes me miss the week I spent putting my engine in. Oh, no, wait, I don't miss it. Nevermind.

Looks good though. Better polish up/paint the intakes and things to match it;)

The Shredder
03-13-2011, 07:46 PM
Just a little progress today. Cleaning up some parts.

I know they aren't polished, but they should perform well. Or I'll have to send them to Vinnie for polishing...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/LowerIntake.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/UpperIntake.jpg

Cleaned 19lb injectors for the Naturally Aspirated version of my engine...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/Injectors.jpg

I realized I need to get another timing chain cover. Anyone have one in good shape?

The Shredder
03-20-2011, 07:14 PM
Made some more progress on the engine...

Got the engine primed:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine012.jpg

Got the valve train on and the engine painted. It is shiny Old Ford Blue! :)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine014.jpg

My boys helped me get the lower intake torqued down...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine019.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine024.jpg

1Bad88tbird
03-20-2011, 08:53 PM
Nice! I like how your kids are getting involved.

vinnietbird
03-20-2011, 09:27 PM
Great looking engine so far. Reminds me of the Sport's when I had it on the stand last year.

What valve covers are you going to use?

What size throttle body and spacer?

What cam is in it?

I've sen some Cobra plaques on Ebay from time to time for a reasonable price. I like the Cobra intakes. I am working on a polished Explorer right now. Keep up the great work. I'll be looking forward to more pics and info.

The Shredder
03-21-2011, 05:35 AM
Great looking engine so far. Reminds me of the Sport's when I had it on the stand last year.

What valve covers are you going to use?

What size throttle body and spacer?

What cam is in it?

I've sen some Cobra plaques on Ebay from time to time for a reasonable price. I like the Cobra intakes. I am working on a polished Explorer right now. Keep up the great work. I'll be looking forward to more pics and info.

Hey Vinnie. Our engines will be similar. I'm running the stock HO cam for a smooth idle and low-end torque. Plus the overlap is very boost friendly.

I do have a replacement Cobra plaque. I may do a little more cleanup on the upper intake before putting in on though - there are a couple of dirt spots to be cleaned up.

The throttle body will probably be a 65-70mm unit. I still need to buy one. No spacer needed on the Cobra intake.

I plan to use the stock HO aluminum valve covers in black wrinkle paint.

I hope to get the oil pan and valve covers painted this week. Then on to the front accessories...

The Shredder
04-01-2011, 07:11 PM
A little more progress... Got the valve covers and oil pan painted and installed along with the water pump, coolant pipes and injectors/Explorer fuel rails.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine034.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine035.jpg

The Shredder
04-01-2011, 07:13 PM
Can you guys tell me what your engine has in the oil galley hole here...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine036.jpg

I suppose it is pipe threaded and I can just install a plug?

vinnietbird
04-01-2011, 08:00 PM
It's not a real "hole".Leave it alone. Great looking engine. I am surprised you didn't match the oil pan to the block,though. Either way, nice and clean..

thewestie
04-01-2011, 08:34 PM
What are the plugs on the side of the oil pan for ? is a turbo in the future?

The Shredder
04-01-2011, 09:24 PM
What are the plugs on the side of the oil pan for ? is a turbo in the future?

Yep. Turbo is in the future. That is an AN-10 drain fitting. :evilgrin:

thewestie
04-01-2011, 09:55 PM
Nice I wish Id thought of that during my build

sarjxxx
04-01-2011, 10:09 PM
Wow that is pretty

V8Demon
04-02-2011, 07:31 AM
Diggin' the crinkle finish on the valve covers. What was used for that?

The Shredder
04-02-2011, 07:59 AM
Thanks for the comments guys. It is coming together nicely. My family is out of town in a couple weeks, so I hope to have a lot of dedicated time to pull the existing drivetrain, clean up the engine bay and get this engine into place.


Diggin' the crinkle finish on the valve covers. What was used for that?

Regular old VHT Wrinkle Finish paint...
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-Wrinkle-Black-Spray-Coating/dp/B0028ZPRA8

jridenour31
04-02-2011, 10:28 PM
Those valve covers do look really good. I'll be stealing that idea lol.

The Shredder
04-18-2011, 11:42 PM
Well, I've been really thrashing it the last couple days. Here is some progress...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap004.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap003.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap005.jpg

vinnietbird
04-19-2011, 05:48 AM
Getting closer by the day. It'll feel great to hear it run for the first time when you turn the key.

88CougarGT
04-19-2011, 08:17 AM
Careful with those ratchet straps. I've had one break on me (the buckle, not the strap). I'd hate to see you loose a finger. Awesome build man.

sarjxxx
04-19-2011, 09:23 PM
I am still in love with that enigine. Damn it just looks so nice. I think using what looks to me, in the pictures, like a darker shade than "Ford Blue" turned out much nicer.

The Shredder
04-19-2011, 11:50 PM
Thanks guys for the comments... It really is motivating to know that others are watching and following this build.

I made a lot of progress again tonight, but I don't have after pictures - just before pics...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap006.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap007.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap008.jpg

I'm happy with the engine bay/chassis as there is very minimal to no rust. These pictures were taken before I taped everything off, sprayed engine degreaser on the whole engine bay and k-member, then hosed everything down.

Then I sanded some of the rough spots, cleaned up any surface rust, primed the bare metal areas, then painted the engine bay body color (Twilight blue metallic 7F), I just primed the k-member gray. Then I coated the entire engine bay with clearcoat including the k-member. It turned out pretty well. I'll take pictures tomorrow when it is light out.

Thankfully, God gave me beautiful weather this week to work outside.

I'm having fun!

thunderjet302
04-20-2011, 10:59 AM
Thanks guys for the comments... It really is motivating to know that others are watching and following this build.

I made a lot of progress again tonight, but I don't have after pictures - just before pics...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap006.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap007.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap008.jpg

I'm happy with the engine bay/chassis as there is very minimal to no rust. These pictures were taken before I taped everything off, sprayed engine degreaser on the whole engine bay and k-member, then hosed everything down.

Then I sanded some of the rough spots, cleaned up any surface rust, primed the bare metal areas, then painted the engine bay body color (Twilight blue metallic 7F), I just primed the k-member gray. Then I coated the entire engine bay with clearcoat including the k-member. It turned out pretty well. I'll take pictures tomorrow when it is light out.

Thankfully, God gave me beautiful weather this week to work outside.

I'm having fun!

The guy at Lorain who painted the engine bay on your car did a good job. I've seen many dark colored T-birds where the area under the cowl and the shock tower sides are just primer gray. It seems to be more prevalent in dark colored cars.


A little more progress... Got the valve covers and oil pan painted and installed along with the water pump, coolant pipes and injectors/Explorer fuel rails.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine034.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Engine035.jpg

Purdy :D.

What cam are you running? I'm just wondering if 19lb injectors are enough. I'm running 24lbers on my combo. The car is quicker (better 1/4 mile et) with the 24s than the 19s. The 19s were leaning out on the top end. I'm running a stock Motorcraft non adjustable fpr as well.

The Shredder
04-20-2011, 07:27 PM
Updated with after pictures of the engine bay...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap010.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap011.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap012.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/EngineSwap013.jpg

The Shredder
04-20-2011, 07:41 PM
The guy at Lorain who painted the engine bay on your car did a good job. I've seen many dark colored T-birds where the area under the cowl and the shock tower sides are just primer gray. It seems to be more prevalent in dark colored cars.



Purdy :D.

What cam are you running? I'm just wondering if 19lb injectors are enough. I'm running 24lbers on my combo. The car is quicker (better 1/4 mile et) with the 24s than the 19s. The 19s were leaning out on the top end. I'm running a stock Motorcraft non adjustable fpr as well.

Hey Thunderjet. I have a LONG way to go to make my engine bay look as purdy as yours. :)

I am running the stock HO cam. I really want a mild street car when idling and cruising - but a MONSTER when in boost.

I will run just the stock 19lb injectors and fpr while the car is Naturally Aspirated. If you read the first couple pages of this thread, you will see that I have great plans for this TC...

hypostang
04-20-2011, 08:06 PM
Looks very nice , personally I would have painted the K member too, But that's just me

thunderjet302
04-21-2011, 02:21 PM
Hey Thunderjet. I have a LONG way to go to make my engine bay look as purdy as yours. :)

I am running the stock HO cam. I really want a mild street car when idling and cruising - but a MONSTER when in boost.

I will run just the stock 19lb injectors and fpr while the car is Naturally Aspirated. If you read the first couple pages of this thread, you will see that I have great plans for this TC...

I re-read the begining of the thread. I see what you're doing now. Just be careful and don't try to go nuts with the 19lbers and you should be fine.

The Shredder
05-16-2011, 11:59 AM
Alright, I have been quiet in posting, but still making some progress. I have the engine and transmission in the car. Pictures here...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC004.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC003.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC005.jpg

The setup dropped right in, since I used the motor mounts and transmission mounts from the 88 cougar I parted out.

The Shredder
05-16-2011, 12:56 PM
Recently, I have been pulling my hair out with the wiring.

So here is what I have and what I still have to figure out...

- 1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe Complete harnesses
- 1993 Mustang 5.0L HO EEC Engine Harness
- 1988 Cougar 5.0L O2 Sensor Harness
- 1988 Cougar 5.0L Front Light Harness

Unfortunately, I sold the Cougar 5.0L Engine Harness before I realized how much easier it would have been to use that instead of the Mustang harness.

So, here is what I am finding...
1. Mustang Engine harness (C213 - Green 8 pin) to TC Dash harness needs to be setup -- this has HEGO power, VSS + and -, MIL (Check Engine), A/C Pressure switch and Fuel Pump ground to ECU. It appears that the TC used the 2.3L engine harness to carry these items back to the ECU from the dash harness connectors by the windshield wiper motor. I'm trying to keep the number of wires to a minimum in the engine bay, so I have fabricated a wiring harness to run behind the dash. This will tie the dash harness to the Mustang harness near the HO computer.
2. The Alternator wiring (Charge/Power) circuit will have to be built for the 5.0L since the 2.3L alternator is on the driver's side. The 5.0L engine wiring has the alternator wiring as part of the front chassis harness along with the front lights. I harvested the alternator wiring from the 5.0L Cougar front harness. However, I have to figure out how to tie in the BK/O, LG/R and Y/W wires into the TC harness wiring (or can I just use the existing Cougar fusible links and eyelet on the starter solenoid?)
3. I have to figure out the Fuel Pump Relay and wiring for the 5.0L since the 2.3L had the Integrated Controller that contained the Fuel Pump Relay. I plan to use the Cougar 5.0L Fuel Pump relay and wiring. I believe that relay was in the trunk on the passenger side.
4. I am running SN95 brake booster and master cylinder, so I plan to eliminate ALL the old ABS wiring, except wheel sensor ABS sensor wiring. In the future, I will plan an SN95 ABS pump to be mounted where the battery is today.
5. I plan to keep the PRC Ride Control, so I will have to run the power back to the starter solenoid for that.

A LOT left to do!

flylear45
05-16-2011, 03:18 PM
I just caught up to your build, Shredder. It's coming along quickly! Engine and bay look great. Very clean and pretty.

Where will your battery be mounted? I ask because if it is in the trunk you might just wire the relay back there yourself. There is already a p/bk wire running down the pax side that you can put a relay on. Otherwise using the Cougar wiring should work fine. You'll just splice in to the fuel pump at the wire I mentioned at the top of the r pax shock.

When you are making your power connections, just keep the old links on the TC side of things and bring your alternator wires to them at the solenoid. Your wiring will be determined by which alternator you will be using. Open up the charge circuits for the two side by side and you should see what to do. Alternator wiring isn't too bad.

On the PRC, the EEC sends a signal from the TPS in a TC for acceleration firming. What EEC are you going to use?

Holler if you get stuck, I'll help any way I can.

50tbrd88
05-16-2011, 03:52 PM
Don't know how I missed this thread...your car is going to be very nice when finished. Great work so far!

flylear45
05-18-2011, 07:30 PM
Thinking about it, and you could just use the Coug front alternator harness. Having two sets of links won't HURT anything, it'll just be more to check if you burn one down the road.

I know some (most) people aren't as ready to cut wires as I am. LOL

The Shredder
05-19-2011, 11:04 AM
flylear,

Oh. I have cut my share of wires here! :) I need to get some pictures of my wiring progress. For now, I plan to keep the battery in the Front Driver's side engine bay.

I plan to run the 130A 3G alternator that was on the cougar. I will run a 4 ga wire from the alternator output post to the batt relay post (with 200A fuse) to handle the increased alternator output.

If I remember correctly, there are three wires coming out of the alternator wiring harness... BK/O - 10 ga (or 8 ga) Main charging circuit wire (to be supplimented by 4 ga), a Y/W wire (maybe 14 or 16 ga), and a G/R (maybe 12 or 14 ga). I used part of the Cougar front harness to run those wires over to the relay.

Now, I can either tie those wires into the existing TC charging wires, or just use the existing fusible link eyelet on the Cougar wires. But the battery relay post is getting crowded!!!

The battery relay post will have...
1. POS battery cable from battery
2. Charge cable from alternator
3. POS starter cable to starter (hi-torque mini starter)
4. Eyelet from alternator harness
5. Eyelet for Mustang EEC power
6. Fuel pump power eyelet (I'm thinking of reusing a fusable link from the TC PRC eyelet)
7. TC eyelet for PRC
8. TC eyelet for Dash harness power

What to do?

flylear45
05-19-2011, 11:51 AM
If you don't mind me putting up some pics, I'll show you a possibility.

I had the same issue, so I used the posts on the alternator fuse for some of it.

Thusly:

269192692026921


The top cable on the fuse leads to the alternator.

sarjxxx
05-19-2011, 10:08 PM
and for some of the low amperage stuff there's also the option of adding a fuse box in your E/C:

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2010-10-30154616.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2010-10-30154633.jpg

It wouldn't looks so crowded but I have two relays in there too.... I plan to also add a large terminal fuse like that to mine soon. I have a lot of heavy gauge wires crowding my solenoid post too. I need to get them off and on a big fuse like that. Those must be TC specific cause I do not have one of those. I didn't even know they had them. Maybe I can pull one of a TC....hmmmm....

flylear45
05-20-2011, 06:12 AM
I need to get them off and on a big fuse like that. Those must be TC specific cause I do not have one of those. I didn't even know they had them. Maybe I can pull one of a TC....hmmmm....

No, that came from NAPA. It's just a Megafuse holder. The fuse plops right onto the studs and a little rubber cover snaps over it.

I have two of those fuse panels, one in the battery area and one in the pax kick area.

sarjxxx
05-20-2011, 05:32 PM
Sweet I'm gonna have to pick one of those up. It looks stock.

88CougarGT
05-20-2011, 08:20 PM
I grab 175A fuses from taurus's at the JY. They are on the underside of the fuseblock under the hood. I also take the battery cable and bolt the fuse inline. Then I take an enormous (cast off from work) piece of heat shrink and shrink over the whole thing. Extra easy 3g upgrade.

flylear45
05-21-2011, 05:48 AM
I grab 175A fuses from taurus's at the JY. They are on the underside of the fuseblock under the hood. I also take the battery cable and bolt the fuse inline. Then I take an enormous (cast off from work) piece of heat shrink and shrink over the whole thing. Extra easy 3g upgrade.


Contour has one, too. I have one of those here. It just doesn't have the tabs to bolt it down like the NAPA piece does.

The Shredder
05-24-2011, 01:25 PM
Alright, slowly making progress in the wiring department. It has taken hours and hours to figure out the mating of these wiring harnesses...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC014.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC015.jpg

I will show some additional pictures of the computer, dash and chassis harnesses as I finalize them. :)

sarjxxx
05-24-2011, 02:39 PM
right on. good to see you're getting it figured out, even if slowly.

flylear45
05-24-2011, 03:16 PM
Yeah, it's a time consumer, but it takes less time to design it right than to trouble-shoot it if it's wrong.

Looking very tidy so far!

The Shredder
05-29-2011, 06:35 PM
Alright, still making progress slowly but surely... Got the fuel lines put together - hopefully they will hold pressure fine.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC016.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC017.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC018.jpg

My wife loves it when I bring the car stuff to the kitchen... :) But I had to boil the ends of the nylon fuel lines in a pot of boiling water.

I think I ought to find some heat shielding or protection for these fuel lines as they will be running fairly close to the driver's side h-pipe (near the steering shaft).

And here are some updated pictures with the ECU wiring laid out...

Thanks!

flylear45
05-30-2011, 03:37 PM
Looks good so far. The fuel lines look great.

The Shredder
07-05-2011, 12:01 PM
Alright. I made some progress on the car this extended weekend... Happy 5th of July everyone.

- Routed/Installed the Transmission cooler lines
- test fit the exhaust h-pipe
- clearanced the floor shift cable bracket and driver's side h-pipe
- replaced the column shift TV cable with a HO mustang setup. The column shift TV cable pivot point was interfering with stock h-pipe.
- removed the AOD transmission shift lever to flip around - NO DICE! The stock column shift lever bends toward the transmission, not away from it. What to do...?
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Transmission002.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_Transmission004.jpg

The coolcats writeup of column to floor shift conversion doesn't mention anything about the shift lever issue or the TV cable clearance problems. But now I know. :(

I guess I will order one of these and fabricate a pivot bolt/stud...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-ATA-1000/

Does anyone have a floor shifted AOD shift lever?

Thanks!

The Shredder
07-17-2011, 07:01 PM
Alright. I'm making progress and bought the Lokar AOD shift lever and fabricated the TV cable lever... I hope this will all work out.

I cut the original column shifted TV lever, flipped one end around, clearanced it with the new shift lever and transmission case and had it welded together. Here you see the Mustang AOD TV lever on the left and my new fabricated lever on the right...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC018-1.jpg

I'm not sure why Ford made the Mustang TV lever so uniquely shaped. The stock Mustang TV lever wouldn't work with the aftermarket Lokar shift lever because of the bolted on arm. Hopefully the fabricated one will work.

I also was working on the shifter. I bought an AOD floor shifter from Herb, but I didn't like how stiff it was and how rusty it was. So I'm fabricating the original TurboCoupe floor shifter to work. I had to transfer over the AOD shifter detent bracket to the TC shifter. The shifter has two plates riveted together... the bottom plate has the bracket where the cable attaches.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC023.jpg

The top plate is the main shifter assembly. I had to drill out the rivets holding the detent shifter gate on both shifters, then drill out the two 1/8" rivets holding the top and bottom plates together. Then carefully pulling back the gasket between them, I was able to remove the shifter gate rivet heads and install 1/4-20 machine screws with lock washers to hold the new one...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC024.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC025.jpg

Now to cut off the end of the TC cable and thread it to accept a rod end or heim joint to attach to the Lokar shift lever...

The Shredder
07-19-2011, 09:51 PM
Alright, I fastened the AOD shift lever and TV cable linkage to the transmission. I believe it is going to work great! Check out the pictures of it so far...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC031.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC027.jpg

I'm waiting on the metric tap and die set to thread the TC auto shifter cable for my M6 x 1 rod end to attach to the lokar shift lever.

I also tightened the exhaust h-pipe to the manifolds, installed the fuel lines from the k-member to the fuel rails, tightened the trans cross-member bolts, wire loomed the front headlight and alternator harness, and installed the battery tray with 200 amp fuse for the alternator. I'll try to take pictures of the other progress tomorrow.

My wife and kids are out of town the rest of the week through Saturday. So it is car time!

I might get this thing running this week - Lord willing.

vinnietbird
07-20-2011, 08:01 AM
Nice work. !!!! I always get a lot of satisfaction on parts I had to modify somehow. It's more "Me" that way. I like your thinking. Again, great work !!!

The Shredder
07-20-2011, 10:29 AM
Thanks for the comments, Vinnie. I agree... The more fabrication, the more satisfaction. I like what you have done with your car and know you have a lot of personal satisfaction from your build. I hope to get there someday.

The Shredder
07-22-2011, 07:23 AM
Here is what I have figured out for the TurboCoupe floor shifter cable end to attach to the new Lokar AOD shift lever...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC.jpg

You can see my new setup as compared to the stock AOD shift cable eyelet. I cut off the TC shift cable eyelet, then threaded about an inch of the hardened cable with an M6 x 1 die. Then got the jam nut and rod end threaded on. It is adjustable by how deep I thread the rod end to the shift cable end.

BTW, Midwest Control Products has EVERYTHING you would need for heim joints, rod ends, special studs/bolts, etc.

cougarman
07-22-2011, 08:07 AM
Looks great, nice work.

Soul
07-22-2011, 08:11 AM
X2 on that shift cable, wish I thought of that for my car.

vinnietbird
07-22-2011, 04:09 PM
I love it when you have to use your imagination to make things work. Most of us have had to do that many times. Great idea on the cable.

The Shredder
07-23-2011, 08:19 AM
Alright, made some more progress last night. I'm really just trying to get this thing running and just have a few more to dos...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC002.jpg

- Find the cougar vacuum tree and install it
- Figure out the intake tube situation with MAF
- buy a belt and install
- Temporarily re-install the dash and wiring
- Convert the 4-cylinder tach to 8-cylinder by adding a resistor (see coolcats.net article)
- Install steering column
- Connect all the dash harness wiring
- Check fluids
- Prime engine
- Hook up battery

ATTEMPT to START!!!!!

Man I'm getting close to a start, but it won't be drivable quite yet. I have some other things to get done before the first drive.

Bruce M
07-23-2011, 01:50 PM
I dont know how I missed this thread but nice work and good luck.

Bruce M
07-23-2011, 01:52 PM
My valve covers look just like yours. Nice.

The Shredder
07-30-2011, 04:54 PM
I was tinkering around with some stuff and decided to get the dash and steering wheel back in. I found the vacuum tree and installed it. I stole the inlet elbow from my 92 mustang. I hooked up all the necessary wiring.

So, I hooked up the battery and turned the key to run. The fuel pump primed - that was a good sign! I turned the key to attempt to start it... nothing. hmmm.

So, I just turned the key to run and jumpered the starter solenoid. She sputtered...

more later.

ThunderbirdSport302
07-30-2011, 07:34 PM
Neutral safety?

The Shredder
07-31-2011, 02:27 PM
I bet you are right! I haven't begun to diagnose, but I wonder if that is the case.

BTW. She's ALIVE!!!!

Again, I just jumpered the starter solenoid to get it to crank. And with a little throttle, she fired up! She ran very rough at first with a lot of smoke out the exhaust - I'm sure that was just the oil from the cylinder walls and rebuild.

I adjusted the timing to be 10 deg BTDC (spout out) and the idle picked up some. It still blew quite a bit of smoke. So I shut it down.

I pulled all the plugs to see what they looked like. They seemed OK. No large oil burning cylinders. While I had the spark plugs out, I decided to do a compression test. Every cylinder was between 135-140 psi. I would have thought they would be higher (maybe rings still need to seat), but at least they were consistent.

I just started it a second time and it seems to run pretty well. I noticed some knocking noise, but it appears to be exhaust (h-pipe). And the idle is very low. I wonder if the IAC is not working, Or my TPS is not set correctly.

So definitely bugs to work out, but at least I have a running vehicle again!

Mischief
08-02-2011, 12:23 PM
That's going to be a beast of a vehicle. What are you planning to do with that 2.3? You should make a rail buggy with it!

flylear45
08-03-2011, 04:49 AM
Cool! It must feel pretty good getting it fired up. I may be firing mine again today or tomorrow.

Post up some video of it running and let us hear it!

The Shredder
08-25-2011, 10:51 AM
Alright. Last night I had about an hour just to diagnose and tinker.

I found that I had forgotten to plug in the transmission harness to the dash harness... doh! So I plugged that in and now I have backup lights and the car will start with the key (only in neutral or park)! Yea. I'm glad I have the transmission wiring correct.

I took out the Engine harness to tape it an loom it. It looks much cleaner now.

Then I ordered the new Heater core and A/C Evaporator core from Rockauto.

Next Steps:
- Pull dash out to tape and loom engine bay wires
- Wire in the Tripminder
- Tape and loom the PRC wiring
- Remove all the ABS wiring from the chassis harness (late-model ABS will eventually go back on)
- Install heater/a/c cores and re-install box into the firewall
- Then, lots of re-assembly!

To make it driveable:
- Adjust toe-in/out
- Re-install front swaybar
- Adjust shifter cable
- Fabricate/Install cat-back exhaust
- Install driveshaft
- Check fluids
- Test Drive!

flylear45
08-26-2011, 08:00 AM
Good progress on the starting. I had a similar deal on mine with a forgotten harness plug.

Sounds like a good plan for moving forward. Keep plugging!

Haystack
08-26-2011, 10:24 PM
Are you running SD or MAF right now? With the vacuum to the map sensor off it will shoot out black smoke on SD.

The Shredder
08-27-2011, 08:25 AM
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I really appreciate it.

But... I just got tired of working on the TC. So... I threw in the towel and just went out and bought a new car...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/AutoFair_Fall2011010.jpg

vinnietbird
08-27-2011, 03:30 PM
I'm finding that very hard to believe. IF you did buy a new car, I think you posted a picture of the wrong one.

The Shredder
08-27-2011, 03:52 PM
LOL! You caught me Vinnie. I'm just kidding.

I walked around the Charlotte Motor Speedway AutoFair yesterday. And this was a very nice Aston Martin. $220k for that hunk of junk!

I'm actively knocking things off the list today...

vinnietbird
08-27-2011, 04:08 PM
Most people that can afford THAT car aren't here on THIS forum. LOL. I do love those cars though. Glad to hear you're making some more progress. I hope to be soon. Gotta gather a few more parts first. One at a time. Funds are totally gone. had to get new tires for the rear yesterday. That kicked my a$$ bad. SO, gotta get some parts sold and start all over.

rodsterh
08-28-2011, 10:00 AM
Nice car but I still enjoy your project more! How interesting is it to plunk down 220 large and drive around with your nose in the air? Let those folks stay over on the IMSTEALINGYOURMONEYONWALLSTREET forum and we'll stay here watching your project progress. :D

sarjxxx
08-28-2011, 03:35 PM
:iagree:

flylear45
08-31-2011, 05:16 AM
The Aston Martin is choice. I highly recommend one if you have the means.
<Ferris Beuler voice>

vinnietbird
08-31-2011, 10:06 AM
If I had the cash, I would have an Aston like that...in a dark silver. or black.

Chuck W
08-31-2011, 11:07 AM
The Aston Martin is choice. I highly recommend one if you have the means.
<Ferris Beuler voice>

This.

The Shredder
09-01-2011, 07:16 PM
Alright. I got my A/C Evaporator in from RockAuto.com. It looks correct! I'm excited. Now I need to find some replacement foam gasket material to seal it in the box...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC039.jpg

vinnietbird
09-01-2011, 08:19 PM
For the foam,I got mine from an A/C and heating supply place down town. Congrats on the new part !!!

Haystack
09-02-2011, 12:26 AM
I don't belive in a.c. crazy how much you have done. Keep it up.

flylear45
09-06-2011, 07:18 AM
Alright. I got my A/C Evaporator in from RockAuto.com. It looks correct! I'm excited. Now I need to find some replacement foam gasket material to seal it in the box..

OK, get that sucker in there! After the dash is in it gets exciting! LOL

Keep it up, man.

The Shredder
09-06-2011, 04:02 PM
Alright. I had to fabricate some foam gaskets for the Evaporator core and the top of the box...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC042.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC043.jpg


Old top box foam gasket was partially chewed from the critter that made a home in it:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC044.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC047.jpg

Fabricated a new one with some double-sided tape and Home Depot foam (cut down):
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC045.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC046.jpg

flylear45
09-07-2011, 03:58 AM
That ought to do it. Looks like new.

Nytedragon
09-08-2011, 10:45 PM
I'm loving your car man. I was thinking of getting an HO engine and building it twin turbo using to tc turbos and getting tc badging on the trunk with x2 at the end...but at the same time I like the sleeper look better. Where did you get the tv arm? I'm building up supplies and info to do a floor shifter conversion and that arm was never mentioned. I thought the gear shift lever was the only one that needed to be modified....ugh thats how it goes...think I got something figured out then bam!

The Shredder
09-09-2011, 11:35 AM
Thanks Nytedragon...

I cut the original column shifted TV lever, flipped one end around, clearanced it with the new shift lever and transmission case and had it welded together.

If you can find a mustang transmission that would be good, but then the shift lever is too short for a Thunderbird floor shifter throw. So that is why I went with the adjustable Lokar AOD shift lever.

The Shredder
09-09-2011, 11:43 AM
That ought to do it. Looks like new.

I did get the Heat / A/C box back together last night ready for install. But before I can install it, I need to re-solder the EVP, CANP, TAB, TAD resistors into the EEC harness. Hopefully I can get to that this afternoon.

The Shredder
09-12-2011, 09:22 AM
Alright. I made some progress this weekend. It was beautiful weather and I got the yardwork done in time to spend some time on the car Saturday.

- Got the EEC resistors soldered in and retaped and installed to the computer.
- Revamped the PRC ride control wiring and installed it. I don't have the brake pressure switch hooked up on my new vacuum assisted brakes, so hopefully that won't impact the PRC function.
- Installed the heat/ac box. But I forgot to put in the sound deadening insulation to cover the computer and wiring. Hopefully I can slide it in there after the heater box is installed.

Next up... Install the dash!!! Once that is in, I will reconnect everything and make sure the car will still start. :)

The Shredder
09-18-2011, 06:49 PM
Alright. I got the dash back in and all the wires hooked back up. The car still starts!

There are a few things to diagnose though...
1. I temporarily hooked up the EATC head unit to see if any error codes showed up. No error codes which is good, but the blower wouldn't turn on no matter what button I pushed (low, med, high). Hmmm. Hoping it is a fuse, connector or ground issue.
2. I hooked up the system sentry system and the check oil light is on. I didn't wire in the low oil warning sensor in the oil pan. So I have to either wire that in or trick it somehow.

Everything else seems to be OK.

Now the race to get this thing drivable!

The Shredder
09-18-2011, 06:56 PM
To make it driveable:
- Adjust toe-in/out
- Re-install front swaybar
- Adjust shifter cable
- Install driveshaft

- Fabricate/Install cat-back exhaust. This may take a while. So I might have to test drive it with open h-pipe. :)

- Check fluids
- Test Drive!

20thanniver-ls
09-18-2011, 07:28 PM
- Fabricate/Install cat-back exhaust. This may take a while. So I might have to test drive it with open h-pipe. :)

- Check fluids
- Test Drive!

An open H-pipe is going to be insanely loud lol, but I've had to do it as well. Looks like your project is coming along nicely!

flylear45
09-18-2011, 09:38 PM
Sounds like you are getting close to enjoying it. Keep on plugging!

TurboCoupe50
09-19-2011, 07:12 PM
Whoo wee lookin' good, lotsa work, way more than I did LOL(but all systems work on mine including the ABS)...

Sorry I missed this thread earlier(been AWOL), probably could have given you a few pointers... My AOD shifter/cable is from a Sport parts car I had, so everything I needed for the swap was robbed from it...

thunderjet302
09-19-2011, 10:56 PM
Alright. I got the dash back in and all the wires hooked back up. The car still starts!

There are a few things to diagnose though...
1. I temporarily hooked up the EATC head unit to see if any error codes showed up. No error codes which is good, but the blower wouldn't turn on no matter what button I pushed (low, med, high). Hmmm. Hoping it is a fuse, connector or ground issue.
2. I hooked up the system sentry system and the check oil light is on. I didn't wire in the low oil warning sensor in the oil pan. So I have to either wire that in or trick it somehow.

Everything else seems to be OK.

Now the race to get this thing drivable!

1. Check the wiring. If the blower worked before it should work now.
2. The light could be on because the engine may not be full of oil. I had a low oil level sensor in my car that leaked. Instead of paying over $30 for a new one I bought a $2 bolt and washer and replaced it. I just unplugged the sensor wiring from the harness and the light has never come on since I removed the sensor.

flylear45
09-20-2011, 07:27 AM
Low oil sensor is grounded when 'ON'. It is a WH/PK wire that comes through a gray 4-pin connector behind the LH top rear of the engine to a relay that lights the light. Make sure it isn't connected to anything and it should be out.

If that fails you can snip the gray wire feeding the indicator.

The Shredder
09-20-2011, 07:57 AM
The engine has oil... I shouldn't have the W/PK wire hooked up to anything at the moment, because I definitely don't have the sensor in the oil pan hooked up. I'll double check it though. Thanks for the tip.

I don't really want to have to pull the dash again if the blower motor isn't going to work!!!!

flylear45
09-20-2011, 08:14 AM
The engine has oil... I shouldn't have the W/PK wire hooked up to anything at the moment, because I definitely don't have the sensor in the oil pan hooked up. I'll double check it though. Thanks for the tip.

I don't really want to have to pull the dash again if the blower motor isn't going to work!!!!


There's a big fat 2-connector plug near the bottom of the blower housing with heavy gauge wires. Check that first. To test the motor you can run ground and power straight to the motor through that plug. It'll spin no matter which way you connect it.

If it spins then there's a wiring/fuse/power/ground issue. I can look at the schematic for you if it keeps giving you issues.

The Shredder
09-20-2011, 10:23 AM
Alright. I had time, in between conference calls, to go out and test the blower motor by hardwiring it to another battery I had. Good news! The blower motor works. So it must be a fuse, ground or connector somewhere. Whew.

I need some additional time today to debug these two issues. Darn work getting in the way. :)

flylear45
09-20-2011, 09:43 PM
Alright. I had time, in between conference calls, to go out and test the blower motor by hardwiring it to another battery I had. Good news! The blower motor works. So it must be a fuse, ground or connector somewhere. Whew.

I need some additional time today to debug these two issues. Darn work getting in the way. :)

Good news!

I'll look at the EVTM tomorrow AM and see what I think is next up for checking.

The Shredder
09-21-2011, 12:10 PM
Hey flylear. Thanks for the tips and help!

I figured out what the problem was with the Check Oil light... I accidently had it connected to the signal return wire in the black 8 pin plug just behind the driver's strut tower that connects the EEC harness with the dash harness. Oops!!!! It might have affected the way the EEC interpreted the sensor signals. Maybe the engine will run even better now. :)

So check oil light is knocked off the to do list. Now onto the blower motor...

Also, I was just double checking the wiring for the transmission. I'm not exactly sure how to wire the EEC Pin 30 (Automatic transmission in P or N). I assume this is just to help the EEC to know to bump up the idle in gear?

Haystack
09-21-2011, 07:14 PM
I do not belive that it bumps up the idle in gear. Prbably just part of the nss or maybe vss.

flylear45
09-21-2011, 08:21 PM
Hey flylear. Thanks for the tips and help!

I figured out what the problem was with the Check Oil light... I accidently had it connected to the signal return wire in the black 8 pin plug just behind the driver's strut tower that connects the EEC harness with the dash harness. Oops!!!! It might have affected the way the EEC interpreted the sensor signals. Maybe the engine will run even better now. :)

So check oil light is knocked off the to do list. Now onto the blower motor...

Also, I was just double checking the wiring for the transmission. I'm not exactly sure how to wire the EEC Pin 30 (Automatic transmission in P or N). I assume this is just to help the EEC to know to bump up the idle in gear?


I am not sure what the purpose is on the pin 30 wire at the EEC, but it is wired the exact same for 2.3, 3.8, and 5.0 engines.

A BR/W wire comes off the ignition switch where it was met from the transmission starter lockout (R/LB wire) circuit.

So, you should have to do nothing with it if I'm thinking right. There should already be a wire there.

I'll look over your blower motor schematic next.

The Shredder
09-21-2011, 08:58 PM
One other helpful hint... I didn't connect the defroster connector to the back of the EATC had unit. Let me do that and see if any change...

The Shredder
09-21-2011, 09:31 PM
Blower motor problem solved! I guess I forgot to attach the Blower Motor Speed Controller. That will do it every time!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC048.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC049.jpg

I am SOOOO sorry I had you on a wild goose chase flylear. It was my own stupid mistake.

That connector is pretty hidden once the dash is installed. But I found a spare six pin plug that didn't fit the EATC, Sentry System or the Radio. So I went looking. Tada!

The Shredder
09-21-2011, 10:00 PM
Alright. Remember, I have the 88 TC 2.3 Dash harness, with a 93 Mustang 5.0 EEC harness, and a 88 Cougar 5.0 O2 harness. So....

According to the 93 Mustang EVTM, I need to connect the BR/W wire from the TC Dash harness to the W/P wire in the Mustang EEC harness at Connector C110. Then I need to create a loop wire in the Cougar O2 harness (C101 - see circles in diagram) from W/P to LB/Y which should go to Pin 30 at the EEC.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/93Mustang_21-4.jpg

What a nightmare! I already have the BR/W going to W/P at C110, but need to create a loop wire in the O2 harness. I remember reading something about Mustang automatic vs. manual O2 harnesses. It looks like this loop is the difference.

flylear45
09-22-2011, 09:13 AM
BR/W goes straight to the EEC. All set there. The R/LB at plug C501 on the 2.3 harness needs to go to the W/P at C110 on the Cougar harness.

Done.

The Shredder
09-26-2011, 12:37 AM
Alright. I did a little more research on the o2 harnesses and the EEC-IV computers. According the thread on corral.net, here are the details on the o2 harness configurations for 5 spd vs auto:


The wires for the 02's and low oil did not change throughout the years, they are all in the same place.

The main ones you need to worry about are (on the harness end (ECU) that plugs into the 02 plug) is:

- 1. Lightblue / yellow
- 2. White / Purple
- 3. Purple / Yellow

The White/Purple & Purple/Yellow gets looped for a automatic ECU

The Purple/Yellow & Lightblue/Yellow for a manual ECU

Thread:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1094179-oxygen-sensor-harnesses-manual-auto-differences-year-differences.html

flylear45
09-26-2011, 07:32 AM
Shredder, I read through the 7 pages. Most of it doesn't apply to you.

When I look at the circuit, I see 12v sent to two places through the ignition switch when in START. ONLY in START.

1. 12v to the starter after going through the starter cutout circuit

2. 12v to the EEC via pin 30

So, let's look at those circuits;

First, the starter circuit is passed through the NSS (neutral safety switch) carried by the R/LB to W/PK in the 2.3 harness and Coug harnesses to the starter solenoid.

The EEC circuit is carried by the BR/W to the LB/Y in the EEC harness.

It's pretty straight forward.

You just want to check pin 46 on your EEC with the computer disconnected while cranking. If you see 12v, then you need to do something. Otherwise, you are all set.

I think you may be making this too hard. (Or I am not getting it, which is possible.)

TurboCoupe50
09-26-2011, 08:49 AM
I think you may be making this too hard. (Or I am not getting it, which is possible.)

I agree, if I remember correctly except for the speed sensor input, I made all my connections in the engine compartment... The speed sensor was actually a goof on my part, there are connections in one of the plugs near the wiper motor... I did pull the plenum to repl the heater core(just swung dash out onto console with passenger seat removed) but touched nothing else inside the dash...

My engine harness is from a '87 Sport that I modified for mass air prior to instillation, also added the speed sensor connections... My 02 harness is from a LSC Lincoln that had a HO... All plumbing(fuel lines) and wiring was completed prior to engine/tranny install, dropped them in connected everything and fired it up...

The Shredder
10-08-2011, 09:33 PM
Alright! I hooked up the driveshaft... Temporarily installed some mustang mid-pipes with rotted mufflers for the time being. The car is still LOUD, but better than the open h-pipe.

I put on the 15" turbine wheels from the 88 cougar, since the tires on my snowflakes are bubbling. I topped off the transmission with fluid and took it for a spin!!!!! Man this stock AOD is a SLUSHBOX!

I had time to give the car a needed bath and took some pics...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC051.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC052.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC050.jpg

The Shredder
10-08-2011, 09:41 PM
Alright. Some smoke is still coming from the tail pipes. I'm hoping it was just some left over oil or something from the engine overhaul. I will continue to drive a while and monitor the smokiness.

I got the Check Engine light today... I ran the KOEO test and got 67 and 85.

67: Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) circuit failure, circuit open; or A/C input high
85: Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failure

I obviously have some wiring bugs to still work out! But the car seems to drive fairly well.

The Shredder
10-08-2011, 09:53 PM
I agree, if I remember correctly except for the speed sensor input, I made all my connections in the engine compartment... The speed sensor was actually a goof on my part, there are connections in one of the plugs near the wiper motor... I did pull the plenum to repl the heater core(just swung dash out onto console with passenger seat removed) but touched nothing else inside the dash...

My engine harness is from a '87 Sport that I modified for mass air prior to instillation, also added the speed sensor connections... My 02 harness is from a LSC Lincoln that had a HO... All plumbing(fuel lines) and wiring was completed prior to engine/tranny install, dropped them in connected everything and fired it up...


I appreciate both of your input on the wiring. But I am NOT using a Thunderbird Sport EEC/Engine harness. If I had it would have been SO much easier! Unfortunately, I sold my cougar engine harness not realizing that it is so much different than the Mustang EEC/Engine harness. SOOOOO. I have adapted the mustang harness and that is why the wiring is difficult.

flylear45
10-09-2011, 04:27 AM
Did you check the signal at pin 46?


Pretty cool that you got it motivating under it's own power!

flylear45
10-16-2011, 05:11 PM
Soooooo, what's up, doc?

The Shredder
10-16-2011, 07:40 PM
OK. I had a chance to create a little loop wire in the O2 harness to connect the start circuit to the EEC pin 30. And now the car starts and idles much better. The car seems to run less rich than before at startup and initial idle. So knock the KOEO error 67 off the list. I still need to wire in a 75 Ohm resistor to eliminate the Purge Canister error code.

The engine exhaust thankfully stopped smoking, and the engine does seem to run much better. But it still seems to run a little rough and feels like a very slight miss.

Here is what I'm thinking...
1. I need to further "break-in" the engine with some continued short full-throttle bursts to seat the rings.
2. Change the oil from 30w to Synthetic 5w-30 and FL-1A filter
3. Replace the front harmonic balancer with a stock style to rule out that for the engine roughness.
4. Buy moates.net chip kit and tune the A3M1 computer

I hope to have some time this week to make progress...

The Shredder
10-19-2011, 10:52 AM
I have some time alone this Friday night, so I plan to change the oil and try to diagnose the rough running and slight miss...

It almost feels like a cylinder is not right. Here is what I have diagnosed so far:
1. Fuel Pressure is at 40-41psi at idle with the vacuum line disconnected. It took a few seconds after startup to get to that psi, but it was holding steady at idle.
2. Compression test on all cylinders was 145 psi +/- 2 psi
3. Manifold Vacuum reading 15-16 Hg at idle (1,000 rpms). Rock steady needle.
4. I pulled the plugs and they all look great
5. I listened to each injector through a stethoscope and could hear the consistent clicking

Steps for diagnosis...
1. Run codes again. KOEO and KOER tests
2. Pull spark plug wires individually to see if I can identify a cylinder that makes less difference
3. Pull the valve covers and make sure all rockers are in place. Rotate the engine to ensure lift is consistent.
4. Leakdown test?

I don't want to just start throwing parts at this thing. I want to truly diagnose the root cause...

flylear45
10-19-2011, 05:08 PM
Hmm. Firing order correct for this cam? Plug wires ohm check the same? Advance set properly?

That's just from the top of my head. I wish we were closer I'd come help you out (if I could).

The Shredder
10-19-2011, 05:23 PM
Man, I would love to have your help on this. I just hope it is something simple

Dan B.
10-19-2011, 07:39 PM
If you have a laser temp gun, shoot the header tubes individually and see if one is running cooler. Will help diagnose a misfire.

The Shredder
10-19-2011, 09:37 PM
Dan B. - good suggestion. I need to invest in an IR temp gun for sure. I guess now is my opportunity. :)

Here is a really poor sound quality video of me accelerating in the car. Tough to pickup on the roughness...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/th_TC057.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/?action=view&current=TC057.mp4)

Here is a cold startup video. Again, hard to pickup the slight miss/roughness...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/th_TC055.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/?action=view&current=TC055.mp4)

flylear45
10-20-2011, 06:42 AM
Unfortunately I get nothing from watching those. Sorry.

The Shredder
10-22-2011, 08:56 PM
Alright. Last night a got a few things done...

- Changed the oil and filter. 5W-30 Valvoline and Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter.
- Replaced the harmonic balancer with the FRPP one. Man what a difference that made in the vibration department. The engine seems to not have the vibration is used to between 1,500 rpms and 2,000 rpms. But the engine still doesn't feel 100%.
- Pulled the valve covers to see if any funny business going on with the rockers and valves. All seemed good except that the front passenger side rocker was hitting the valve cover baffle. I clearanced the baffle and checked/reinstalled the rocker.
- As I was pulling the upper intake, I noticed an open vacuum port on the intake tree! Plugged that one up and reran the vacuum test on the engine - now vacuum is 17 Hg at idle. Getting better...
- Once the upper intake was off, I noticed some fuel in the upper intake. Could that be? A leaking injector? But how did it make it to the upper intake?
- I checked all the spark plug wires resistance, including the coil wire, and all were within the 10,000 to 15,000 Ohms per foot.
- I did buy a Laser Thermometer and all exhaust ports were similar at 500-525 deg F after full warmup.

I'm beginning to suspect injectors. These were used injectors that I cleaned and installed new filters, pintle caps and o-rings. I wonder if some bad fuel got in them from the car sitting so long.

I will drive the car some more and re-run codes. I'm not sure what else it could be.

The Shredder
10-23-2011, 07:59 AM
Some pics of the rocker rub...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC059.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC061.jpg

flylear45
10-24-2011, 06:05 AM
I wish I had an idea for you on the rough running. Having the injectors cleaned and checked sounds like something that can't hurt.

I had mine done because I didn't trust old ones.

The Shredder
10-25-2011, 10:27 AM
Alright. This is for others who have done the V8 swap into the TurboCoupe... A wiring diagram and some pictures of how I did it...

The wiring diagram:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_V8Swap_FuelPump_Wiring.jpg

Fuel Pump Relay to EEC connector (I made this one up on my own):
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_FuelPump_Connector2.jpg

Fuel Pump Relay and EEC connector to existing TC connector to inertia switch and fuel pump wiring:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC_FuelPump_Connector1.jpg

Picture of where I put my Fuel Pump Relay:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC063.jpg

Thanks,
Jon

The Shredder
10-29-2011, 09:29 PM
Keeping track of my next ToDo's here:
- Replace VSS speedometer gear with either 21 or 23 tooth to work with TC 3.73 gears.
- Replace shifter and cable assembly with replacement.
Fuel system upgrades to hopefully solve the rough running/miss condition:
- New Motorcraft Fuel Filter
- Replace injectors with known good ones
- Install Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (Kirban)
- Install Liquid-filled Fuel Pressure Gauge on the Fuel rail and adjust fuel pressure to 39psi with vacuum feed disconnected

I really need to get my 4R70W transmission ready to go in this thing. Because the AOD is not shifting well.

The Shredder
11-03-2011, 09:19 AM
OK. I pulled the Upper intake off again to get access to the fuel rails to replace the injectors. And as I was pulling it off, I saw raw fuel in the upper intake?!

I have a good hunch that the stock fuel pressure regulator (FPR) diaphram must have a hole in it! I assume the intake has been sucking fuel from the vacuum line in the FPR.

I have a new Kirban on order. So hopefully that is the source of my miss/rough running!!!!!

I can't wait to get the fuel system back together to hopefully feel a difference!

flylear45
11-04-2011, 03:35 AM
OK. I pulled the Upper intake off again to get access to the fuel rails to replace the injectors. And as I was pulling it off, I saw raw fuel in the upper intake?!

I have a good hunch that the stock fuel pressure regulator (FPR) diaphram must have a hole in it! I assume the intake has been sucking fuel from the vacuum line in the FPR.

I have a new Kirban on order. So hopefully that is the source of my miss/rough running!!!!!


I can't wait to get the fuel system back together to hopefully feel a difference!


That sounds VERY likely, Shredder.

I bet you get a difference right away. Fingers crossed for ya.

thunderjet302
11-04-2011, 01:15 PM
There's your problem :).

At this point you could get away with a stock FPR. I'm running a stock Motorcraft FPR with 24lb injectors and a C&L MAF with no problems.

The Shredder
11-07-2011, 07:44 PM
Alright. Got the replacement fuel injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge (adjusted to 39 psi) and new Motorcraft PCV valve installed. While I was back there, I hooked up the heater hoses so now I have heat for the winter.

I also fixed and adjusted the floor shifter assembly so all the detents are in line with the shifter now. And I installed the 23 tooth speedometer gear - so hopefully my speedometer is more accurate. I'll have to drive by the digital speed sign.

Got everything back together and took the car for a test drive and the engine seems to be a bit smoother and a little more power. Still a little vibration/ roughness right off idle to about 1,500 rpms.

The check engine light came on right when I pulled in the garage. So I ran the codes and got a 41. My right o2 sensor might be bad, or a wiring problem on the right (passenger) side. I plan to get a new o2 sensor and double-check to o2 harness wiring.

Once I get code 41 figured out... gonna drive this thing for a while. I need to get the dash and console back together.

flylear45
11-08-2011, 05:08 AM
I'm puzzled. I was convinced the FPR was your issue. Hmm.

flylear45
11-30-2011, 07:01 AM
Any new news?

The Shredder
12-22-2011, 12:28 AM
Alright. thanks for keeping after me flylear. :)

I think I have FINALLY figured out what the engine roughness is! Ever since the new motor has been running, I have noticed valve train noise. So I checked the push rod length...

Well, the push rods are too short (6.200"). Apparently, the guy I got the heads, rockers and push rods from must have shaved .050" off his block deck. The GT40 heads are stock and never been shaved. And my block is stock deck height. So I should be able to run standard length 5.0L push rods - 6.272". This should give the lifters just the right amount of pre-load to run correctly and quiet the valvetrain noise.

I am hopeful. This will be a good Christmas present and will be motivating if this fixes the problem!

Then I can focus on other things like bodywork/paint, interior, suspension mods, drivetrain upgrades...

flylear45
12-22-2011, 06:54 AM
That's good news. I'm glad you got the gumption to break back into it. Chasing this stuff down can be depressing, I know. If this fixes the problem you'll be back on the path and it'll get fun again in a hurry!

The Shredder
01-19-2012, 04:07 PM
Slow and steady wins the race...

The longer pushrods did help with the roughness of the engine. So we are good there. The roller rockers just make more noise than I'm use to. But I'll just insulate the firewall some more and turn up the radio!

I was inspired by Vinnie's blue bird's exhaust and have been busy fabricating something similar. I have finished up one side and have been fabricating the driver's side exit. But here is what I have so far:

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC022-1.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/TurboCoupe/TC023-1.jpg

I'm pumped! I think it modernizes the look of the car and just looks killer! Also, it quiets down the car, since before my exhaust was dumped before the rear bumper.

Still making progress!

flylear45
02-16-2012, 08:10 AM
Where you at??? LOL

It's update time mister!

G8RFan
03-07-2012, 01:50 PM
Love your build. I had a stock one sim. to yours and let it go. Only needed a/c charged and a repaint. How is it going now...? updates man, updates, pls.

The Shredder
04-23-2012, 12:03 PM
Alright. I'm back on the forum and will continue work on the t-bird! Sorry for the long time away.

I sold my daily driver Grand Cherokee and will be rotating DD responsibilities between my TurboCoupe, Mustang Vert and the newest to the fleet (both my sons are wanting this one)...
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/jdschrader/66%20Mustang/66Mustang014.jpg

Next Upgrades to the bird will be...
- 4R70W with Optishift controller
- Revise (lower) the driver's seat mount as I hit my head on the sunroof/headliner

ThunderbirdSport302
04-23-2012, 06:21 PM
Ooohhhhh nice! And welcome back too! Keep them wrenches spinnin ;)

88turbo
07-16-2012, 05:28 PM
thought you were gonna keep us updated? :beatyoass:

thewestie
07-16-2012, 09:45 PM
I'm interested in the seat lowering

flylear45
07-17-2012, 05:15 AM
:beatyoass::cheers:

The Shredder
07-17-2012, 05:02 PM
I know. I know. Haven't had ANY time to work on the tbird. I'm itching for some car time, but house projects have gotten in the way.

I built a shed with the boys and then repainted the garage and laid the garage floor tile. It looks awesome!

Now I need to get some wheels and tires (5 lug) for my suspension upgrades. Can't wait to work on it!

jleews6
07-20-2012, 04:43 PM
It looks like your car is coming along nice. One thing I would look into though is that you said the rockers were making allot of noise.RR shouldn't make any more noise then the stock ones. I'm looking forward to seeing it with the turbo on it because that's something I always wanted to do to one of these cars. Back in 1990 I had an 88TC converted to an EFI 302 HO 5 speed and loved the car but turbo's were not even something we thought about doing back then.

The Shredder
07-22-2012, 10:06 PM
Did a few things today...

1. Checked out the the driver's seat to try and lower it (as my head was hitting the sunroof ceiling). I removed the driver's seat and seat track. It would be extensive work to lower the floorpan and could only gain 1/2-1" with all that work. The power seat tracks fully lowered are about 3" thick. Other than changing out to manual seat tracks, I couldn't see anyway to cut down on the power track. Then checked out the lower seat cushion... The original owner must have been a 90 pound little old lady, because the seat cushion was like new. The cushion is held up by thin wires about 1" apart and a frame with springs. So I snipped the seat cushion where the wires are, so the seat cushion could sink about 1/2-1" through the wires. So effectively the seat cushion is lower in its frame. Just enough to give me needed headroom.

2. Replaced my headlights. The original lights were SOOO foggy and one of the lenses fell off the housing. I had found some NOS replacements a few months ago, so it was time to swap those out. Man, what a difference! I can see at night.

Next, I need to diagnose a hunting idle and intermitten stalling. Primarily when the car is warmed up...

Slow progress, but it feels good to knock off a few things.

ThunderbirdSport302
07-22-2012, 11:08 PM
Jon, I think that the power seat tracks at the lowest setting are lower than the manual seat tracks, assuming the same seat is used.

I could get my head further from the moonroof structure with the power seat bases, as opposed to the fixed setting of the manual track. Seat's recline wasn't adjusted..it stayed constant. Hope this helps..
My car also has the moonroof, not the pop up sunroof, in case that makes a difference.

The Shredder
07-23-2012, 05:03 PM
That does help. Thanks thunder.

The seat foam "adjustment" I made seems to work just enough for me to clear the moonroof. Plus I feel like I'm held in place better by the bolsters - because I'm lower in the seat. I'm very happy with it.

Flylear, how is your seat dye holding up? I plan to dye my seats gray.

flylear45
07-26-2012, 05:52 AM
Its holding up pretty well. I am quite happy with the wear so far. It is a little 'crunchy' at first, but softens with time.

I will use it again if a project presents itself.