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View Full Version : MN-12 Power Window Regulator Rebuild



Scott D
08-22-2010, 03:38 PM
A few days ago it was hot, inside the 'underbird. So, like any other fool would do that has no a/c, I rolled down the windows. The passenger's side went up, fine, but the driver's side needed some help.

I could hear the motor turning like a top, so I knew it was time to take care of another common issue on the MN-12 Thunderbirds and Cougars. The power window regulator.

First thing first was to order the rebuild kit (http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/partBrowser.aspx?partId=492) from Bill @ Super Coupe Performance.

Once that arrived, I could tear down, everything, and get the window working, again. Now, my 'underbird is a 1997, so it should be the same for the '96. There may be some differences for the '89-95, but I am not making any guarantees of the accuracy for those years.

The first thing I had to do was remove the reflector on the lower edge of the door. That gave me access to the screw holding the door panel to the door. Next I removed the control panel on the upper-side of the door. The next time I have to remove this, I am going to start with the upper right, as I broke the clip on the lower left of the panel. Also, the reflector (being 13 years old) may be brittle by the clips holding it in. I didn't have an issue, but if you do 3M moulding tape will hold the reflector fine, when you put it all back together ...

Scott D
08-22-2010, 03:43 PM
With the switch panel removed, access is gained to the other bolt securing the door panel to the door.

Next item to remove was the rubber-esqe inner panel. It's got an adhesive holding it to the door, so caution is needed removing this as to not ruin it.

With the inner panel off, it's time to take out the door speaker ...

Scott D
08-22-2010, 03:48 PM
There are three bolts securing the power window motor. Use caution taking those out, as the upper and lower holes are very much recessed, and it can be easy to drop a bolt. If you do drop a bolt, you can fish it out of the door. But, easier to take your time and not go chasing things.

Once the motor is unbolted, you simple unhook the power supply, and pull the motor out of the speaker hole ...

Scott D
08-22-2010, 03:51 PM
With the power window motor out, you can go inside and get out of the heat. Just make sure to keep any tools, bolts, and anything black out of the sun. It gets HOT when you leave them out :rollin:

You will have to remove one torx screw from the bottom of the gear cover. Once that is removed, use extreme caution to not bend the cover as you remove it with a knife, or thin flat-tip screw driver ...

With the cover off, you can see how badly your regulator needed the rebuild ...

Scott D
08-22-2010, 03:54 PM
Carefully remove the e-clip from the shaft of the regulator. Put it aside, as you'll need it later on.

With the clip off of the shaft, you can remove the 9-tooth gear with the help of a flat-tip screw driver ...

OMG! Where are my cam buttons???????

vinnietbird
08-22-2010, 03:58 PM
So far so good.................

Scott D
08-22-2010, 04:00 PM
Old vs New. You can see it was past time for a rebuild.

Make sure to clean any, and all of the old nylon junk out of there. Brake cleaner works good with a brush and rag. Just make sure it gets clean in there. You want nothing left over that may damage the new buttons, or new gear.

Clean the 9-tooth gear and get it ready to put into the new nylon gear.

Insert the 9-tooth gear into the regulator gear so the shaft on the regulator is just inside of the 9-tooth gear. Then you can carefully insert the three cam buttons before pressing the two gears together....

Scott D
08-22-2010, 04:06 PM
Next is to lube the regulator gear, the 9-tooth gear, and the worm gear. I used the old reliable red high temp wheel bearing grease :headbang:

Be more than liberal with the lube, as you don't want to have to change out the gear and cam buttons anytime soon after. You want it to last a while ;)

Replace the regulator assembly into the power window motor and ...remember that e-clip you set aside earlier? Look under everything on the table, under the table, and ...ah, there it is next to the table, hiding in the carpet by your work boots ...put that back on the shaft. Tighten the torx screw back down, and you're all done.

Just put the power window motor in the opposite of how you took it out. After that's tightened and hooked back up to power, go ahead and test it. Might as well see if it works while the door's apart, as opposed to taking the door apart again.

Then, reinstall the speaker, inner panel, door panel, switch panel, and light opposite of the way you took them off.

Scott D
08-22-2010, 04:11 PM
All done rebuilding the motor. I had another cigarette, then went to reinstall it.

Here's a list of tools you'll need ...

Flat-tip Screw Driver (help with removing reflector, switch panel, and regulator cover)

Philips Screw Driver (to take the screw out from behind the reflector)

Needle-nosed pliers (made taking the bolts out of and reinserting them in the power window motor and the holes through the door A LOT easier)

Ratchet with extension and reducers

5mm socket for the speaker bolts

8mm socket for the door panel bolt and the power window motor bolts

#20 Torx bit for the torx screw on the power window motor

sarjxxx
08-22-2010, 07:42 PM
and this is the next thing I need to do to mine... :toilet:

NEITHER ONE of mine work anymore.... this means $60 and I guess all day working on them:punchballs:

Scott D
08-22-2010, 08:02 PM
and this is the next thing I need to do to mine... :toilet:

NEITHER ONE of mine work anymore.... this means $60 and I guess all day working on them:punchballs:

If you take your time, it should take no more four hours tops, if you do both sides. It took me just short of an hour, from start to finish.

Just make sure you push UP on the things that come off of the inside of the door not OFF, and you'll do fine.

At least you have some detailed instructions to follow, now. If I can be of any help, short of driving down to FLA, let me know, I'm more than willing to offer what I can.

BTW, an 8 y/o makes the perfect torque wrench, so you don't over tighten the bolts holding the motor to the door ;)

sarjxxx
08-22-2010, 08:16 PM
only thing I cant figure out is how to get the switch panel off the door

Scott D
08-22-2010, 09:26 PM
only thing I cant figure out is how to get the switch panel off the door

Carefully lift the bottom right corner out and the top right corner up and it will come up. Then, you can work on the rest of the switch panel. Or, start at the top right. Just make sure to move it UP.

Watchdevil
08-22-2010, 10:38 PM
The correct definition of a window regulator is the mechanism that moves the window up and down which is driven by the motor assembly. Traditional mechanisms are the scissor type while many modern systems use cables and pulleys.

Traditional scissor type:

http://www.en.kasrayadak.com/images/custom/window_regulator.jpg

Cable and pulley type:

http://www.allproducts.com/traffic/jiuhmen/11-window_regulator-l.jpg

Good job on the window motor gear repair!

I am having issues with my RH window motor again and I will likely just replace it. It works when it wants to. Today it went partially down and will budge no more. It would not go back up. Even dismounted from the door, the motor would do nothing.

Then to top it off, the LH window motor decided it was not going automatically stop turning in the full up position which yeilded a racheting effect. If I let off the switch of course it stops. But if I hold it down it rachets. It does not do this in the full down position. I never had this problem before and today it decided to do it.

I suppose I will eventually replace these motors with remanufactured units. I cannot trust the condition nor longevity of salavage yard replacements anymore.

sarjxxx
09-20-2010, 02:33 PM
Window motor gear rebuild complete!!!!

Both sides work now!

Only wierd thing was, opening those up and smelled like old rotten fish!:barf:


Carefully lift the bottom right corner out and the top right corner up and it will come up. Then, you can work on the rest of the switch panel. Or, start at the top right. Just make sure to move it UP.

Good thing I tried it on a junkyard car first! All I had to do was pull the opposite of the handle side OUT away from the door panel. Absolutely no pulling UP was involved. They're not designed for that. That might be why yours broke... The door panel itself definitely moves up though, not out like our foxes

Scott D
10-08-2010, 06:43 PM
That might be why yours broke...

Mine broke because I started on the wrong corner of the switch panel :(

sarjxxx
10-08-2010, 06:55 PM
Mine broke because I started on the wrong corner of the switch panel :(

at the door handle??

Scott D
10-08-2010, 08:54 PM
at the door handle??

Yep. I Couldn't find any detailed info on the removal, such as where to start, so it was a live and learn lesson for me that I can pass along to my fellow MN-12 brothers ad sisters.

sarjxxx
10-09-2010, 08:41 AM
oh yeah well that makes sense. Now I see what you meant