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ablinkpunk
01-18-2005, 09:20 AM
How much Horsepower can a stock AOD with a cooler take??

Tbird232ci
01-18-2005, 12:51 PM
its not a matter of horsepower, its a matter of how many miles, and how well youve taken care of it

ive seen stock 3.8L's blow up AOD's, and some moded 5.0's not blow em up

V8Demon
01-18-2005, 12:54 PM
A properly maintained AOD should have no problem holding more than 300RWHP. A shift kit usually helps as does a servo from a 3.8 SC AOD

TurboCoupe50
01-19-2005, 12:09 AM
It really depends on the trannys origions. Generally the NA v6 units have one less clutch in the direct drum. Judging mostly from my Super Coupe AOD(supposedly one of the strongest), totally stock I'd say 250-275 hp was the limit. While mine shifted fairly well on its own, it struggled to shift and slipped a little with 6000 RPM manual shifts. The Trans-Go shift Kit gave it a totally new personality, even after 5 years and 400 drag strip passes still shifts cleanly. With the kit, I'd say a healthy 5.0/SC AOD will handle 350 hp.

SirChirpAlot
01-20-2005, 07:13 PM
I blow up AODs like there nothing.
300 is around all a mild AOD can take in a heavy car.

ablinkpunk
01-20-2005, 09:07 PM
would you have to take the tranny out to install the shift kit or is there one that i can just lift the car and install under it. There is no way that i am going to take this tranny out again unless i know it will blow up becuase of my cars power. thanks for the posts

zpyro
01-21-2005, 12:15 AM
you probably wouldnt have to take the tranny out, just remove the pan (make sure to support the tranny somehow) and there's the valve body

dominator
01-21-2005, 06:09 AM
Why on earth would you have to support the trans if your only removing the pan?
No shift kit i've seen requires trans removal just the pan and valvebody,fairly easy just time consuming.

ablinkpunk
01-21-2005, 09:37 AM
Great, what do yall think about the B&M Shift kit...is it good for the money. It is only like 31.00 so i dunno it sounds a little cheap i guess. Basically what I want to do is get about 300 horses on my tbird and no shread my tranny to crap. I already have a cooler that i am going to install so i was looking at a shift kit to keep it from killing itself. Thanks

Tbird232ci
01-21-2005, 12:38 PM
B&M is crap, trans-go is the way to go

SirChirpAlot
01-21-2005, 01:57 PM
trans-go or spend a bit more and get a shift kit from Lentech

Trans-go is what i ran with hardend input shaft and hi friction clutch discs and plates with extra ones ramed in there :)

Note my cougar had no waight taken out 210lbs of speekers and amps in the trunk. Et streets and 351 4.10 gear and was being sprayed out of the hole. The 3 times the tranny broke can be blamed on a few things.
1st time was the converter that messed up and took the tranny with it.
2nd time was the input shaft that broke on full-power upshift from 2nd into 3rd that just wreak internal havoc.

Rebuilt it again and not even on the bottle the tanny started to wine after a few runs,
Pulled it out b4 it got to damaged and its been sitting on my porch since last summer.
Sounds like pump but i have never opened it up.

I been playing with stick in the car since.

m3th0dm4n
01-21-2005, 03:30 PM
B&M is crap, trans-go is the way to go
Trans-Go is the ONLY way to go.

dominator
01-21-2005, 05:39 PM
Queston about the trans go hp kit(the expensive one).
That tube that goes from a passage to the manual valve(the one that you have to drill into the valve body)What is that thing for?

SirChirpAlot
01-21-2005, 08:18 PM
I dont rember if its for 1st gear or 3rd gear but it helps get more fluid to one of the vaulves to up th pruesser. Anyway its needed and kit comes with plates to line up a drill. make sure u do it right. If u go to far or u drill on a angle u mess things up.

1/2 shifts go with hardest spring. for 3rd go with 2nd strongest. I have seen to many OADs with hardest spring in for 3rd gear snap the input shaft.
I lost hardend shaft to 3rd gear shift that miss having.

dominator
01-21-2005, 08:36 PM
I've already done the valve body(have an extra)but haven't put it in this trans yet.
Don't think there has a choice for 2-3 shift spring.
Also i remember tc50 saying that he changed the transgo 3-4 wot shift valve back to stock because he broke his input shaft under a full throttle 3-4 shift is this adviseable?
Also i was thinking of keeping my manual valve instead of the one provided in the kit due to the fact that i always shift from d-od depending on driving speed to save the weak od band.
I never shift manual 1-2 especialy with the shift kit because it's a nice firm shift anyways, i don't need to mess with it, but losing the ability to d-od and back would suck.
Opinions?

TurboCoupe50
01-22-2005, 06:42 AM
Queston about the trans go hp kit(the expensive one).
That tube that goes from a passage to the manual valve(the one that you have to drill into the valve body)What is that thing for?

If i remember correctly(yea its been a while), it disables a pressure cutback circuit that reduces pressure applied to the clutch packs AFTER the shift is complete. Supposidly less pump pressure, better gas milage(per Ford).

I also have a old Lentech mod that allows me to shift 1, 2, 3/OD. It's why I had to reinst my orig 3-4 shift valve, as I didn't want full throttle shifts to OD. Yea it broke the crappy SC input(the earlier shafts are actually a lot stronger), but I opted fot the hardened aftermarket piece.

dominator
01-22-2005, 09:31 AM
So in other words using my original manual valve to keep the selectability of d-od is ok?
Also should i use the stock 3/4 shift valve or the one in the kit?
Trans is out of an 88 mustang.

TurboCoupe50
01-22-2005, 04:12 PM
So in other words using my original manual valve to keep the selectability of d-od is ok?
Also should i use the stock 3/4 shift valve or the one in the kit?
Trans is out of an 88 mustang.

Duuhhhh.... I believe the Trans-Go manual valve is part of the cut back mod. It doesn't have anything to do with the shift pattern. I have the video out in the garage, if I get a chance I'll skim through it. The instructions are crappy, but the vid more than makes up for it.

dominator
01-22-2005, 07:59 PM
Cool check for me if you can.
What i meant by the manual valve though, is the long valve that connects to the shifter inside the tranny that alows you to manually select which gear you want.
The valve only has one differance from stock about 3 quarters of the way up the valve,i'm pretty sure that the changing of this valve is what changes the manual shift pattern to 1 2 3/4 instead of the usual 1/2 3 4.
Also i remember you talking about breaking your input shaft under a wot 3 4 shift.
That is why i ask about leaving the stock 3/4 valve in the trans, you said in another posted thread that you reinstalled yours.

zpyro
01-23-2005, 12:34 PM
Why on earth would you have to support the trans if your only removing the pan?

because when I tried to remove the pan, the crossmember was in the way ;)


B&M is crap, trans-go is the way to go
what makes it crap? i have it in my tranny, and I've put almost 20,000 miles on it already (about a year now), no problems

dominator
01-23-2005, 01:09 PM
You don't have to remove the cross member just loosen up the trans mount bolts and pry the cross member back a bit and retighten.
Then remove the pan.

zpyro
01-23-2005, 01:25 PM
I fkd around with the pan trying to get it out without taking off the xmember, then just said screw it and took it off